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Discussion Starter #1
With my updates to my 110 coming to a close I am looking to do a 2 bottom plow for it. I am thinking of maybe using an old jd 2 bottom plow from a johnny popper or something of that nature. Any ideas? I have plenty traction and weight so I think I will be fine.

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I don't think you will have enough horsepower or weight to pull a old JD 2 bottom plow designed for a Johnny popper..... My 1934 John Deere model A was considered a 2 (or sometimes a 3 in certain soil) bottom plow tractor. It is only 25HP but has a ton of torque. I know just a 1 bottom 12" brinly plow will work a 110 pretty hard.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Yea those old johnny popper plows are alot heavier than I intially thought.. I have a brinly 1 bottom and have no issues plowing with it and with all my weight at the 26x12x12 tru powers have never ran out of traction. I am more concerned about weight than anything else.

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Discussion Starter #4
I will eaither try and find something like a 2 bottom plow that are 10 inches or I may look for an old JD single moldboard and make that work.

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Maybe fabricate a miniature 2 bottom trailer pull out of Brinly plow shares. (Would also still be sized right if you ever took it to a GT plow day also)

The story I’ve heard on the Poppers (Model A) is that they were designed as 3 bottom, but farmers being the type they were like pulling an extra plow bottom over rating so Deere under-rated them so they would be run at their rating. That or it’s just story made up to explain the extra capabilities.
 

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Kid growing up on a farm in southwest Wisconsin. Two hundred acre farm (100 tillable). Good soil but occasional rock. You knew where the rocky areas were from experience. Primary tractors were A's and B's. Earlier yrs plowed with 3 - 14 plow. Later yrs plowed with 2 - 16 plow. Farm supported a Family of six.

These plows would provide a good pattern to build your own. Definitely would need to be scaled down. I apologize that I do not know him well but member Mr. Peterson built a nice trailer plow.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have been looking to the old deere plows and I quite like the design. Maybe I can make something using 2 brinly plows?

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Discussion Starter #8
I got to thinking. A sleeve hitch doesnt have the same angle as a 3 point. Sleeve hitch is at an angle and the 3 point is up and down. Would this affect having a 2 bottom? Would the second moldboard plow at a different depth than the 1st moldboard?

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Not if the plow was designed for the sleeve hitch. With either both of the support beams being long enough the hitch would be level, or with the front share having a longer support beam and the back share having a shorter support so that the bottom of the shares would be level.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So if I mounted 2 brinly 1 bottom plows together to make a 2 bottom then aslong as I get the measurements right I should be fine correct?

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Should be as long a geometry is correct.
 

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For a 110-112 I would recommend a trailer style plow. Putting a two bottom on the back of a 110-112 is a lot of weight to hang on a Brinly hitch, even with front counter weights. Also with a trailer plow you can alter the lift wheels to set the plows. With trailer plows both wheels are set to the same height to give the plows a level depth on the first pass. All the following passes run the furrow wheel (left looking from the tractor seat, right looking from the back of the plow) lower to level the plows. On early plows this was set using two levers, one for each wheel. Later this was done with hydraulic cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree its alot of weight. I think I will make the 2 bottom work on the sleeve hitch and if I dont think its safe for the tractor then I will turn it into a trailer style. Honestly im glad that im getting alot of ideas rather than alot of dont do that on a 110 haha.

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I agree its alot of weight. I think I will make the 2 bottom work on the sleeve hitch and if I dont think its safe for the tractor then I will turn it into a trailer style. Honestly im glad that im getting alot of ideas rather than alot of dont do that on a 110 haha.

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Maybe you can limit the weight by running two different plows, lead with a 8" bottom and follow with the 10". Yeah, it might look a little weird, but if you get the distances right it would work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I dont think weight will be an issue with 2 brinly plows. Should still weigh less than a tiller. Only thing I didnt account for is the leverage of it hanging so far off the back.

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Discussion Starter #16
Has anyone ever tried to mount a 3pt for a 140 on a 110? I know the 110 doesnt have the hydro to lift it or the removal plate for it. But I think I could fab a bar to connect it to the rear lift and since my fender pan is lifted for my 26x12x12 I think I may be able fit it.

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Check WFMfiles.com. I think the 3pt plans on there have a lift bar option. Otherwise it should bolt up with exception of the fender pan needing cut for the top link.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I wonder if with all my lift that I dont need to cut.. I have a hitch laying around that I might be able to test with.

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I remember a thread from a long time ago of someone building a 3 point on the back of a 214. Maybe you can find it but I do think it was some years back
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Little bit of an update on the 2 bottom plow idea. Im still kicking it around but I think it wont happen with the sleeve hitch. Just alot of weight resting on that hitch. I have an idea but need to find a way to model it on the tractor. I think a 3 point is the best way around this. Just as a friendly reminder this would go on the back of my big tire 110.

My factory 3 point for a 140 will sit way to high up. A ruegg 3 point should clear as my fender deck is already 2 inches higher and the top link sits lower. I have a 50/50 shot of it fitting (eaither it does or doesnt) really dont want to spend the 400ish bucks on an idea that may not work.

Any input? I think a 3 point would increase the chances of a 2 bottom (or at the least a larger 1 bottom)

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