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Discussion Starter #22
I would have to weld a tab onto the ruegg to hook it to the 110s rear lift. Besides that I imagine it should work other than the possible fender deck clearance.

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Discussion Starter #23
I would have to weld a tab onto the ruegg to hook it to the 110s rear lift. Besides that I imagine it should work other than the possible fender deck clearance.

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Or based on photos its possible the toplink might be where I need the lift rod to be. Maybe a custom rod that fits next to the top link? Geometry might even work. No clue tho. Hard to tell without having a hitch to test with.

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Tell ya what. I'll take the ruegg off my 140 and you can try it out on your 110. All you have to do is weld a lift tab on the 3pt rockshaft and it will work perfectly fine on a 110. Very simple. Send me a message if you want to borrow the hitch for mochup
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Alright I picked up the ruegg 3 point from @KevinC and got it installed. With the 110 the rear depth control had to be taken off. Hoping to remedy this issue with a simple pin to lock it in the up position.

Other than that I used a piece of aluminum (for testing purposes) and what you see is my max height. Any idea if that is height enough for the plow? Also my buddy is holding it up because the aluminum broke... whoops.. tomorrow I will run to ace and pickup materials to make a proper lift rod. And yes lifting it off where the top link is actually works well. Once i get my own 3 point I will have to see if that holds up. Also 3 point is full mounted. I have it just enough for testing purposes.

You would think the fender pan would be the largest issue... in fact it was the least of my problems!


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Discussion Starter #26
Lift link 2.0 has been created. It still doesnt sit 2 inches above the ground when full lowered (lift link needs to be shorter) but now I have max height.

Still feel the plow doesnt lift high enough. Does it matter a whole lot? Or is it fine?

Any criticism is apperciate!


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Change your top link geometry. On farm tractors, as the three point is raised, the geometry of the top link causes the top of the three point to lean in towards the tractor. This causes the implement to lift higher, especially the rear of it.
 

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Or go ahead and tell them...?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
As awesome as it looks/works first I gotta figure out how to lock it in the up position. I had to remove the depth control but I think a shorter bolt and a nut can solve the issue and remove the depth control entirely. Typically i want it locked up for when I have weights on.

Ive noticed that 3 points don't typically raise the plow nearly as high as a sleeve hitch. I assume this is because one lifts straight up and the other lifts at an angle. Atleast thats what ive noticed watching PA plowday videos.

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the sleeve hitch rotates up from the 2 bottom points and it curls the lift for your lift height.

the 3 points does the same but not a much action on the curl part because of the top link.
But the top link gives you adjustment for when your implement is lowered as to how the plow attack angle is at in the ground and the lower lift arms have adjustments up and down as well independent of each other.

so you can raise the right arm 6" higher than left and then when the tire is in the plow furrow the plow is still sitting in a level vertical axies

the sleeve hitch goes up/down there's not all the adjustments that you can make that a 3 point has.

hope that all made sense
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Makes alot of sense! Never used a 3 point let alone a plow on a 3 point so its a new experince. Probably going to put my current brinly on my round fender and then find an actual 3 point plow. Thinking a jd 20 would be cool.

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Discussion Starter #33
Guess this thread has really turned into how to put a reugg hitch on a gear drive... but I have figured out how to lock the hitch in the up(ish) position. Not all the way up but good enough to hang weights on it if I wanted. Just removed the depth portion of the hitch and put a pin in.


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any chance of a close up pic of how you locked the 3 point up?

on the one I have on my 140 I took out the Hydro Cylinder and put a spare top link in its place and then put a luggage rack on my Load Lifter 2" receiver hitch and loaded it up with weights so I can have traction for snow blowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I will take a close up tomorrow.

With the 110 the rear lift linkage has a rear depth control. I had to remove that to install the 3 point. I simply put a pin into the hole with washer and cotter pin. That allows it to stay up. I could use a short bolt and use the orginal knob. That is probably what I will end up doing as I am unsure how much weight I trust that cotter pin to hold.

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Now I want 2 Ruegg hitches...:LOL:o_O🤑
 

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Discussion Starter #37
While kind of off topic I did notice a cat 0 3 point mount for the 30 hydraulic tiller..... One can only wonder if that would work lol. I know deere offered the 30 tiller for the 200 series probably cause they had my horse power. But I can only wonder.

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There's a new can of worms... putting stuff never meant to go on, on.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
A can of worms is what made this 110 what it is lol. Its more of an idea that I dont expect to work but would be cool and different. I already own a 31 tiller for the 110 so there isnt a true need for a tiller lol.

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Discussion Starter #40
Little update-
I now own that 3 point thanks to @KevinC
Also I believe I am almost finished with my revised depth control. Basically just a plate with a nut welded on.
Next step is looking for a 3 point plow. Looking for a jd 20 but leaning towards a brinly.
Also going to purchase a heavy hitch to throw weights on for the winter.

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