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Need JD 420 Garden tractor help:

3984 Views 44 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  billy_cravens
Has Onan 218 (instead of Onan 220) and was running great for several years until tractor just stopped one day a few weeks ago after 30 minutes cutting grass. Would only restart after sitting for a while. When restarted the tractor was running somewhat roughly and the RPMs were very low. Changed oil and filter, replaced spark plugs and wires, new air and fuel filters. Still runs as before with RPMs not near where they should be and are very low. And as before, I can run the tractor for a while, shut it down, but it will not start back up until it has cooled again. What approach should I take to troubleshooting? Should I be looking for vacuum leaks, carb problems or governor/throttle adjustments? I have a 420 service manual as well as the Onan engine manual, but I am looking for advice on the best area to start investigating. I've already had to have someone else cut grass for me once
and I've got some dirt to move!

...and thanks Dave T. for pointing me in the right place to post this!!
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David,

Testing the electronic ignition on a Performer series Onan engine is detailed in the TM1590 Service Manual.

Here are a few illustrations and steps from that manual that should help...

ignition timing test from TM1590.pdf (28.2 k)

Often these modules start to fail only at elevated temperatures, so your engine may fire up again when it is cold, and the above tests might check out OK when cold...so re-measure shortly after it quits if it does so again when hot.

Chuck
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Your coil is very likely still good...there is some discrepancy in the Deere manual against the factory manual:

Onan manual illustration:


TM1590 version:


You quoted the Onan manual which you mentioned you had in your earlier post, and in general I believe it to be the more authoritative source. My experience is that the range could be a bit low for modern digital meters that use a much smaller sense current when measuring resistance than the analog Simpson meter illustrated, however. Your measurement is close enough to look for another root cause...

Of course, if the coil acts differently when the engine is up to temperature that is another matter. Elevated engine temperatures can also effect the condenser, as well as the ignition module which I described in my earlier post.

Have you done the hand rotation of the engine with the meter on the switched side of the coil to determine that the ignition module is working at room temperature? Has the tractor started and run now that it has cooled down from when it "quit"?

Chuck
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David,

there is another section on the earlier B-series coils with different ranges:


...Also, be cautious of applying voltage where it does not belong when testing your ignition system:


From your earlier post about some spitting back through the carburetor and the noticeable vapor -- have you checked your valve clearances? Maybe you have a loose seat (that should have shown up on the compression test...is that something you have done yet?)

Chuck
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Mick,

Yes there was some variation as I have heard as well -- I suspect that image was of a very early tractor. Maybe another member here with a unit that had the flywheel screen installed as a factory original can shed some light on when that might have occurred.

Chuck
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