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1981 210, 1966 110 round fender, 1971 110
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I am currently restoring a 1966 110 Round Fender. Picked it up for $100 because it needed a new coil pack. Got lucky I guess. So anyway I’ve noticed that one maybe two of the springs are not in the right position as one of them is connected to the rock shaft and the other two are hooked to the same spot. What I know for sure is that the one on the rock shaft is not right. There is another that is supposed to be connected to the metal tab pictured. My problem is that I can’t figure out which goes where. The manual that I downloaded isn’t clear. I’ve put an arrow next to the one I think attaches to the tab but can’t be certain. As for the one on the rock shaft I have no clue. Any help would be appreciated.
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The one with the arrow(spring with swivel ends) goes into the tab. The spring to the right was added by someone.
 

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Jason, here's some photos from my '67, before and after. I found it very difficult to take the right pictures before tear down that I would understand when putting it back together some months later. lol
I don't have any photos of the lift helper spring on file. It is the one with the adjusting bolt in your photo. It appears the bracket it is attached to should be moved to the opposite side of where it is now. Then the spring goes back toward the square holes in the frame near the shifter cut out. On mine, there is a sorta "S" hook looped thru one of those holes that the spring attaches to. My son has a '64 110 that has a bracket mounted to those square holes with carriage head bolts, that the spring attaches to. Moving this spring to the correct side will give more room for the other springs.
The fixed eye spring is the main force for the variator/clutch operation. It does not hook over the shaft as you suspected. It must go to the welded bracket toward the rear of the frame. In my "after" photo, I used a link of chain, with a slot cut in it to attach to the bracket. The spring was much easier to attach to that. There is about 1" less tension, but all works as it should.
The spring with swivel type eyes attaches to a rod that attaches to the secondary idler belt pulley arm. Hopefully, you can sort it out with my rambling narrative and the photos. Enjoy your adventure!

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Clutch over ride spring front.JPG


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tommyhawk
 

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1981 210, 1966 110 round fender, 1971 110
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The one with the arrow(spring with swivel ends) goes into the tab. The spring to the right was added by someone.
The tractor came with a model 36 snowblower. I wonder if that's what that addition spring was for, so instead of removing it each time he just found a place he could hook it and never loose it.
 

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1981 210, 1966 110 round fender, 1971 110
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jason, here's some photos from my '67, before and after. I found it very difficult to take the right pictures before tear down that I would understand when putting it back together some months later. lol
I don't have any photos of the lift helper spring on file. It is the one with the adjusting bolt in your photo. It appears the bracket it is attached to should be moved to the opposite side of where it is now. Then the spring goes back toward the square holes in the frame near the shifter cut out. On mine, there is a sorta "S" hook looped thru one of those holes that the spring attaches to. My son has a '64 110 that has a bracket mounted to those square holes with carriage head bolts, that the spring attaches to. Moving this spring to the correct side will give more room for the other springs.
The fixed eye spring is the main force for the variator/clutch operation. It does not hook over the shaft as you suspected. It must go to the welded bracket toward the rear of the frame. In my "after" photo, I used a link of chain, with a slot cut in it to attach to the bracket. The spring was much easier to attach to that. There is about 1" less tension, but all works as it should.
The spring with swivel type eyes attaches to a rod that attaches to the secondary idler belt pulley arm. Hopefully, you can sort it out with my rambling narrative and the photos. Enjoy your adventure!

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tommyhawk
Tommy, I really like the idea of using a link of chain to connect to that tab. I was actually kind of dreading trying to connect that spring until I saw your picture. Thanks a bunch.
 

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The added spring seems to put more pull on the clutch/variator, might’ve pulled something really heavy, or it has a worn out variator sheave.
The spring with the bolt in the end is the lift assist spring. Other end of the lift assist spring goes to the bent link that hooks through the floor pan hole under the shifter boot.
 

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There is a trick to hooking up the clutch/variator spring in the correct hole. Use a ratchet strap through the shifter hole to the back of the tractor to apply tension, then use needle nose pliers to turn the hook into the hole. Using a link like that will lighten the tension on the variator causing it to prematurely slow the tractor under load.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The added spring seems to put more pull on the clutch/variator, might’ve pulled something really heavy, or it has a worn out variator sheave.
The spring with the bolt in the end is the lift assist spring. Other end of the lift assist spring goes to the bent link that hooks through the floor pan hole under the shifter boot.
far as I know the owner only used it to cut grass and plow snow in a rather small driveway. Is it possible to get a new variation sheave or is it something that I can rebuild.
 

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What problems do you have with the variator assembly? JDParts is not working for me at the moment, so I can not say what repair parts are still available for it. There is an oil lite bushing in the movable part of the sheave, and a special type bearing that the whole sheave rotates about.
If the middle part wobbles a lot or feels sloppy, the oil lite bushing may be worn out. If the sheaves make a lot of noise, or feels rough when rotating it by hand, the special bearing may be bad. The rust on the faces of the sheave can be cleaned up with emery paper.

The hardened bushing inside the pivot arm connection is very likely rusted in place. It was NLA several years ago when I rebuilt the '67 110. Getting it out, loosened up, and greased also makes the variator system work as intended. This model is supposed to pivot about the bushing which does not turn with the pivot arm. When the bushing becomes rusted in the arm bore, everything tries to pivot about the attachment bolt which just binds things up and it just doesn't work properly.

BTW, I agree with Minihomesteader's comment that the added link may increase the sensitivity of the variator. As mentioned, mine is working very well as is, but I keep a tiller on it, so most of it's work is done in 1st gear and the lever all the way back. I haven't towed or pulled any heavy enough loads with it to know if it is any more sensitive that before tear down. Climbs hills and the trailer ramp just fine, but I haven't done either in 4th gear and variator forward! It did get a new spring with the rebuild. Clutch pedal still plenty hard to depress.
Keep us posted with your progress and questions.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
tommy, I'm not having any issues with it. I just know by looking at it that it doesn't seem right and the extra spring. I'm just trying to get it as close to stock as possible for a proper restoration. Does anyone know where to find the tensile strength of the springs on these tractors, just in case I have to have one made?
 

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For the Variator spring, just get a new one. They are still available are the correct length and strength.
 
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