Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a 140 H3 to get back up and running nicely. I plan to use it exclusively as a garden tractor and leaving mowing duty to the 330. I've got some questions and I'm hoping you guys can help out. I was given a nice collection of parts to get it back together, but it definitely needs gone through. it looks like it was an older restoration/refresh.

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Car


Based on the serial I believe it is a late 73.

Font Motor vehicle Gas Screw Nut


I was able to drive it onto and off of my truck without issue, but the carburetor/ throttle linkage does seem a little funky. once you give it a little throttle it builds RPMS quickly, it takes a long time for it to come back down when you lower the throttle. I need to look into the correct adjustment for this. I also noticed this still has breaker/points, is there a way to convert to a solid state ignition easily on this?

Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Auto part Machine


I need to source the correct hydro line to replace what is on the left there. I also wondered if the leather isolator setup is factory or if this should have a rubber isolater like a 3XX series would have?

Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Auto part Machine


Finally would anyone happen to know what this green connector is for?

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Auto part


Thanks for the help everyone.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
Nice acquisition!
I suggest getting service manual as that will help with you throttle issue. The hydro line is still probably available from JD.
The green wire not sure. Again service manual will help.
They are great machines. I have a '73 also.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Banditjeep

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,961 Posts
Follow green wire back. It should come from light switch. Green wire should be for headlights and a yellow for taillights. Wire could have been swapped during earlier restoration because ???.
Schematic Font Rectangle Material property Parallel

Hope this helps, Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
The points can be upgraded by using a transdenser module from Kirk's engine.
Do a search and read up on them, their pretty nice. A little tricky to get set correctly, but work well.
That's a pretty good tractor to start with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Banditjeep

·
Registered
Joined
·
734 Posts
The points can be upgraded by using a transdenser module from Kirk's engine.
Do a search and read up on them, their pretty nice. A little tricky to get set correctly, but work well.
That's a pretty good tractor to start with.
I have this set up on my 140. Way easier than any SS conversion. (Just FYI there was a year of 140 that had SS, most got converted back). You'll want to find the points cover (upgrade screws to allen head cap screws, Kirk's sells them with the points saver.

That driveshaft isolator is stock and despite the looks, is probably fine.

Someone has done something with those hydraulic lines, stock they were flared metal. Should be easy to source or replace.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Banditjeep

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice and knowledge guys! Finding a part number for those transmission to spool valve lines has not been fruitful yet, I gotta keep digging.

I will definitely check out kirks transdenser kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
734 Posts
Thanks for the advice and knowledge guys! Finding a part number for those transmission to spool valve lines has not been fruitful yet, I gotta keep digging.

I will definitely check out kirks transdenser kit.
I might have a pair, if you can't come up with anything, let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,961 Posts
Bandit, Is this what you're looking for (from PC1245):
Product Rectangle Slope Font Parallel

Bob
 
  • Like
Reactions: Banditjeep

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,961 Posts
Bandit, Hmm, I got onto the Weingartz site and did a search for AM33288... found nothing... then a search for 140. It seems Weingartz only carries parts for newer 140's, like E140 & LA 140.

Unless someone comes up with a different source, you may have to make something up from scratch! Are you familiar with hydraulic components? If not, we can talk you through it! Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Bandit, Hmm, I got onto the Weingartz site and did a search for AM33288... found nothing... then a search for 140. It seems Weingartz only carries parts for newer 140's, like E140 & LA 140.

Unless someone comes up with a different source, you may have to make something up from scratch! Are you familiar with hydraulic components? If not, we can talk you through it! Bob
I have some experience on the automotive side with making brake lines, but I've never made equipment hydraulic lines. We do have a great hydraulic shop near by that if needed I'm sure I could get some new soft lines made up. These aren't leaking, so I'm tempted to leave them as is for a bit while I get the tractor back together. There's also a local equipment dealer nearby that used to be a JD dealer, Pikeville Equipment. They can still order parts and have been a huge help on some of the oddball stuff when I was working on my 330.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was able to spend a couple hours going through everything today and tinkering some more. Swapped the leaking gas tank with one that seems to be doing OK. Adjusted the Governor. Installed the cowling on the top of the motor. Set points and installed a rocker cover that was in a box. Added a new condenser I also found in the box of parts. Fired it up and it was running great! the new governor setting seemed a good bit more responsive to throttle inputs and trying to bring the machine back to a low idle.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Green Automotive tire


I then got brave and tried adjusting the carburetor. With the factory recommended settings of 2 turns on the idle screw , and 1.5 on the main screw I cant get it to start without liberal amounts of choke and throttle, and it wont stay running when you lower the choke. It seemed to get worse as it warmed up. The carb was initially set much richer then the factory guidelines and I didn't have the foresight to record where it was at. I'm tempted to purchase another carb. Even though this one looks like new I know this tractor's been sitting for about five years and I know nothing about it. It's definitely not the original from what I can tell. I also noticed the throttle linkage doesnt match what is referenced in the manual and I cant adjust it to the factory recommended length, not sure how critical that is. Additionally I don't like the way the fuel inlet was epoxied in facing up and away from the tractor. Makes for some less then optimal fuel line routing.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Tread




Our 15 Month old son Loves this thing.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire



Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Picked up some hardware and decided to slap it back together as is to see where it stands. Its looing like my running issue may actually be more charging related. I was only able to back it a few feet out of the garage and then it died, recharged and only made it a bit further before it died again. I've got a voltage regulator on order and I'm going to pick up a new battery. I did order a new carb as well, but I may hold off on the install and try working the charging system first. I Also ordered some Tri -ribs and Ag's to replace the current tire setup that's a bit goofy.
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle


Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Tractor


Wheel Tire Vehicle Plant Motor vehicle


Cosmetically it's really not in bad shape at all. The headlight panel is cracked as well as the front of the hood, but it's not going to take much to clean this up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tires came in and dropped them off at the shop. While pulling the old wheels and tires off I noticed the left rear hub was loose. looking into it the hub bolt was actually sheared off inside. I got really lucky with an EZ out and pulled it out. This looks like a 3/8-24, can anyone fact check me on that?
Wheel Gas Machine Circle Wood


Hand Finger Wood Eyelash Nail


I've also got a small leak coming out where the rear axle meets the center section. It looks like the previous owner may have epoxied this entire area... What is this supposed to look like?

Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Picked up some hardware and decided to slap it back together as is to see where it stands. Its looing like my running issue may actually be more charging related. I was only able to back it a few feet out of the garage and then it died, recharged and only made it a bit further before it died again. I've got a voltage regulator on order and I'm going to pick up a new battery. I did order a new carb as well, but I may hold off on the install and try working the charging system first. I Also ordered some Tri -ribs and Ag's to replace the current tire setup that's a bit goofy.
View attachment 270594

View attachment 270595

View attachment 270596

Cosmetically it's really not in bad shape at all. The headlight panel is cracked as well as the front of the hood, but it's not going to take much to clean this up.
Did anybody mention the online John Deere Parts Catalog? It's pretty good. On those "goofy"? tires up front. You might like what you have if you have to steer hard, especially on a grade and the front starts sliding straight on tires with less traction. If you still don't like them, I might just want to buy them. I have nothing but slope. Mine is a 1968 JD 112. Very similar machine. Love them, yours looks great. When my stock SSI died and the one or two on e-bay were also pushing 50 years in age and pricey. So I converted to the SSD workaround with a Ford F150 ABS sensor on the flywheel, generic coil, Chrysler module, etc. Bolted the whole thing to the side, got lucky and hit the timing just right by sheer accident and eyballing where the magnet flies by. This is on a Tecumseh HH100. There were many times I WISHED I had ignition points instead. Those I can play with. You'll get many faithful years out of your workhorse. Bang on the frame on a Husqvarna at the box store at $3,000. Then bang your knuckles on yours. See what I mean? Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Cable Gas
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Cable Gas
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Cable Gas Funky throttle for me was a learning process. Throttle it down sooner when there's still torque and she'll purr right down to a one cylinder thumper. Check the governor linkage for any obstructions. Love posts with pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
(I see you already did the governor, missed that).
Thanks for the Insight Frank. When I get the front Ag's back from being swapped over to Tri-Rib's I'll let you know. i've been using the Deere Catalog as well as the service manual and they've been a great help. These garden tractors are a huge step up compared to what's on the market today.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,025 Posts
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part Metal


I just ran across your post and thought I would jump in. In this photo of the hydraulic line, the orange one is usually the return with little or no pressure. The Orange covering is an aircraft fire sleeve. Whoever put that on must have hung around airports in some way. It's not needed there and just makes the hose that much more bulky. You could get rid of that orange covering if you like which would give you a bit more room under the fender pan. If they are using the fire sleeve clamp to make the hose connections, it will likely fail at some point as that clamp is not designed to secure the hose, just the fire sleeve. This is likely why they added the extra hose wrap to stop some chaffing that was going on.

I would take the hose off and have another made up. A good hydraulic shop can make a hose for you. Take this photo with you and have them install a 45-degree fitting. (That hose appears to be very close to the driveshaft isolator.) A lot of auto stores build hoses but I've found they are very limited. They have very little experience and not much of an inventory. They usually stick to automotive hoses. You could also shop for the original steel pipes that were replaced by that orange hose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Banditjeep
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top