[dapper_dan]

The 318 I bought a couple months ago quit today.
I was likin this old tractor cause it was perfect for mowing my 1 acre (nightmare) lot here at home. It was perfect cause you cannot mow here with a nice tractor because of the jungle my wife continues to plant. Between the miniature fruit tress and the hedge you cannot even keep your hat on!
Power steering is a must!.
This old girl was pre scratched and CHEAP (1400 hours)
I had no intention of restoring it...just maintenance and run her till she dropped.
The compression showed 110 LBS both sides (warm) and only used a small amount of oil (pint after 7-8 hours).
Parked it yesterday and today it won't go.
With the switch on the amp and oil light come on....hit the key and nothing. Turn switch on and turn on lights or PTO and lights go off. No click....nothing. Now it won't even light the dash lights. Acts as if it losing ground. Checked the obvious (battery, terminals, ground, etc. and nothing.
Service manual (on cd) should be here Monday but for now I don't know where to start looking.

 

[jdfan]

Fuse?

Jim A.

 

[Kevin_paul]

I had a similar problem with my 318. I replaced the ignition switch and that cured the problem.
Hope this helps!

 

[markks]

Sound like maybe a safety switch. Make sure the Hydro lever is posisition properly, and the seat switch is ok..

 

[chuckv]

Dan,

All good advice above -- the ignition switches on these vintage tractors get pretty used up in a couple of decades and are simple/inexpensive to replace so do that even if it is not the only issue.

Fuse holders are another place that seems to be a common point of failure, particularly the early style that is the cartridge type. Just replace them with the more contemporary blade style fuse and holder.

Another source of complete loss of all tractor power is the circuit breaker. Check for tight connections here and if needed renew with a replacement unit.

Safety switches (hydrostat 'neutral' position switch, brake switch if fitted, and the seat switch) will effect the starting and PTO engagement, but are unlikely to keep all the dash lights from operating...

Here is a partial diagram (the complete schematic is in the TM1590...)

What year/serial number is your 318? Given that, we can offer some more specific things to check out.

Chuck

 

[jd318cda]

Hi Dan,
I had a similar problem with my 318. This will happen to me two or three times a month. What I do is open the hood and move the fuse holders around to make better contact. I turn the key and it will start but sometimes not. Then I reach way in under the dash to the wires that plug into the back of the ignition switch, I move the wireS around back and forth . After doing this it has always started.
I have bought an ignition switch but have not put it in yet.(mine is an JD318 83)
Good luck,
Alan

 

[lodogg2221]

Most likely a connection issue...try the key switch first, use dielectric grease when you put it back together. If you have the old barrel fuse holders, they are known for causing headaches. I converted mine to blade type when I finally tracked that issue down...

 

[dapper_dan]

RUNNING AGAIN!

Bad switch.
Also got my service manuel today.

 

[gzec]

Which switch? Key?

 

[dapper_dan]

Yes, Key switch

 

[revjer10]

'86 185 hydro won't go. at first it would for some time and then got to where it wouldn't pull itself

 

[coalminer16]

Oil? Belt slipping?

 

[T-Mo]

Moved to proper forum.