New RF owner - Best way to install chains with wheel weights

1891 Views 25 Replies 8 Participants Last post by n3zat, Dec 14, 2014

MN112H

Discussion Starter · Nov 20, 2014

I picked up a 67' 112H it came with a Model 36 snow blower and chains (and 46 deck).
Right before we had 6 inches of heavy icy snow, I pulled out of the garage with only the blower on and got stuck going down hill. Quickly put the chains with the hook side on the inside of both tires, it was better but kept getting stuck and the chains got loose and one came off.
I put it away and used a walk behind that I was supposed to sell once I got the 112.

I just got some plastic covered 75lb wheel weights yesterday, they stick out a good 3 inches past the rim and are a little larger than the rim opening (they have a lip). I had a hard enough time getting the chains on prior now it worse. Please advice!

I've always used bar tires, on my 317 and 420. Newer to using chains. I don't have an extra set of rims 8.5x12 to put them on and don't want to get stuck with trying to put chains over bar tires. I moved to a much smaller city lot and have a short driveway but inclined (asphalt).

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T-Mo

· #2 · Nov 20, 2014

Tony, welcome to the RF world. 112Hs are excellent machines, but as you noticed you need traction and weight.

The weights should not interfere with the tire chains. The tire chains should only touch the tires. Let some air out of the tires before installing the chains and get them as snug as you can. Then air the tires back up and you can use bungee cords to make an "X" on the outside, across the weights if need be, to keep the chains snug and to keep them from loosing up and falling off.

cd202

· #3 · Nov 20, 2014

I jack up the tractor and put on the chains as tight as possible. Then I use 4 24 inch bugees 2 on the inside 2 on the outside to make a star patern. Works great. Hook the bungee then a third of the way around you loop the bungee around the chain then go another third and hook the other end if that makes any sense.

T-Mo

· #4 · Nov 20, 2014

Colton, I used the "star" pattern before also on the bungee cord. But I never put any on the inside of the rim as I wasn't sure if it would come loose and get tangled in the axle, etc.

MN112H

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 20, 2014

Which side do you put the cam side of the chains on and hook side. I used the hook on the inside, I like the idea of putting the bungee on both sides, I had only thought of buying a set for the outside.

MN112H

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 20, 2014

I should add that I have the original Firestone turf tires all the way around (in great shape!)

T-Mo

· #7 · Nov 20, 2014

Hook side on the inside, the latch/cam on the outside.

MN112H

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 21, 2014

3

I ended up taking the chains off, putting on the wheel weights, deflate the tires and put the chains on. I still need to get some smaller bungees.
I took a few pictures. I do also have the original seat and pad.

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T-Mo

· #9 · Nov 21, 2014

Put the original seat on, for sure. Get the whole round fender experience that way, plus it's just wrong not to have the pan seat on it.

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MN112H

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 21, 2014

I figured I would put it back on in the spring. Do you think I can avoid the fuzz until than?

KB

· #11 · Nov 21, 2014

not if you keep posting pictures.

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dhager4692

· #12 · Nov 23, 2014

Tony, I am looking at the chains on your tires. To me they look like you have chains meant for a 23 x 10.50 x 12 tire on a 23 x 8.50 x 12 tire. Mine only go about halfway down the tire and I have the 10.5 tires with 10.5 chains. I tried the 8.5 chains on the 10.5 tires and they don't stay on no matter how tight you have them. So I wondering if the reverse could be true, that to much chain width can be causing you problems.

Maybe some one else can shed some light on this.

MN112H

Discussion Starter · #13 · Nov 23, 2014

You may be correct, I have them on the tightest setting , and they are still loose. But at least now with the big weights I think think they could come off.

knottyrope

· #14 · Nov 25, 2014

weight wont help with traction on ice

your chains are too loose and you need to take a link out in order to tighten them up more but the wheel weights should keep them in place from slipping around

dhager4692

· #15 · Nov 26, 2014

Knottyrope, I think that the cross links are too long and allows the links to touch the weights. That limits how tight he can get the chains.

I agree he needs to take a link out of each of the cross links. This will tighten it up on the tire. He hasn't said if he has the 23 x 8.50 x 12 tires. But from what I am seeing, the cross links are way too long. Too long cross links=not being able to tighten because of weights. Too short and they won't stay on the tire. I've had the second problem when I put chains for a 23 x 9.5 x 12 tire on a 23 x 10.5 x 12 tire. When you turn the chain grips the concrete and twist on the tire.

Get the correct chains and the problem should be solved.

MN112H

Discussion Starter · #16 · Nov 26, 2014

I do have 23 x 8.50 x 12 tires. Funny thing is The guy I bought it from has been using these for years.

I think I should get bar tires, and maybe some narrow rims on the front

But would it be better to get 6-12 bar tires if it's mostly for snow?

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dhager4692

· #17 · Nov 27, 2014

I have bar tires 23 x 10.5 x 12 on the 318 that I have the 54 blade. I do not use chains on this tractor and have had minimal problems with wheel spin.

I have turf tires on the other 318 that I have the 44 loader on. I must use chains on this tractor in spite of the 300 pounds of weight + liquid in the tires. Without chains I can push more snow with a shovel.

The cross chains for the 8.50 tire measures 12 inches.
The cross chain for the 10.50 tire measures 14 inches.
The cross chain for the 26 x 12 x 12 measures 16 inches.

As for buying bar tires, you would spend more for two tires than a new set of chains that you could get tight.

hundojoe

· #18 · Nov 27, 2014

From my experience with Minnesota winters, the best solution is turf tires with chains. Turf tires support the cross chains all the way across the tread of the tire, ag tires with chains allow the chains to fall into the large voids between the lugs and offer not much more traction over a naked ag tire. On my 317 I run turfs with chains, two 50lb weights in each wheel and six 42lb suitcase weights. I have pulled cars the were stuck in snowdrifts at the end of there driveways with the road covered with ice with this setup. Turfs + chains + weight is the way to go in my opinion.

MN112H

Discussion Starter · #19 · Nov 27, 2014

Thanks for the measurements, the chains are marking up my driveway that's my main reason for getting bar tires. Plus they look so cool!

hundojoe

· #20 · Nov 27, 2014

Try swapping the rear tires off your 317 and using chains. The wider tire will spread the load on the chain out on a wider footprint. If your driveway has any slope to it your gonna want some chains.

Also the easiest way to install chains is to jack up the rear of the tractor so both tires are off the ground, then both can spin freely.

One other thing, when using chains, you want to have the chain as tight as possible on the inside, and only use a chain tensioner on the outside, never the inside.

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