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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The frame crack also occurs in the area of the steering cylinder mount. Check both frame rails to. My 318 had this issue.

Check the front hydro crossmember also. The boss on the hydro unit can break off.
Theres an updated crossmember and a shouldered bolt used to update it, if the hydro case isnt broken. The update allows the hydro to shift a little, avoiding the cracked frame.
I will have to look into this area when I pull the engine and finish pressure washing the underside of the chassis.

N2, If you decide to weld your cracked frame, PREP IT PROPERLY! You need to drill a small (3/16") hole at the end of the crack. This prevents the crack from migrating further after welding. Bob
Thank you. My biggest issue welding on thin frames is I normally have the heat up to high in an effort to make darn sure I get good penetration. This sometimes causes heat effected zone issues as well. Normally I’ll chamfer or grind out the cracks and use a good copper/aluminum backer plate after grinding a bevel to get 100% penetration.
 

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I dont think the 316 frame will work, no p/s on it.

As for the frame repair, I plated mine also. Cut to fit around the steer cyl mount and welded in.
I'd do something similar in the rear.
You'll find these frames very easy to weld and nicer than today's steel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Power steering would get transferred over as well as h2 valve, dual brakes and fuel cut off valve. Those are the only 4 differences I know about. Oh yeah and the oil cooler. I’m not sure how much of the previous porosity bad weld/frame material will have to be cut out to get to good steel prior to welding it back together. I’ll take the path of least resistance.
 

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Gotta ask, since I've never seen it addressed on this forum before...what about checking the frame for square beforehand? Are they compact enough/robust enough that this is not a problem?
 

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N2 - I sent a PM to Jerry (member Redbarns) asking if he still had the 2 bare 318 frames I saw when I picked up a 54-blade from him a few months ago, he was going to scrap them. What a shame right?
 
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Tmac that reminds me the 316 with single spool valve only has one set of lines up front as well.

Tom indeed it would be a shame if they are in good shape. There are differences in the forward and reverse operations in how the lever is designed. Not sure if that makes the frame any different as well to go with the type of lever set per tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Before these threads get buried and I can’t find them when I need them.

Power Steering columb Rebuild info.

Broken steering ram ball joint repair.

 
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
bump back to the top of my sub list
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
it's on the back burner. I just pulled the motor out to put in a 316 so I can get a model 30 hydro tiller going. I have some crabgrass I am going to be attacking soon and want to plant some tall fescue seed before it gets too cold out. It's just about too cold out now :/.

I will pull the transmission with the hydro pump, all the wheels and front axle and power steering unit before I proceed to do the repairs. The rear axle will get swapped out for the 420 axle trans.

For now my focus is on the 316 and my front lawn.
 
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