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Hello! New member here, having picked up a 330 last week with about 1000 hours on it. (I've gotten tired of blowing up the transaxles on the box-store tractors, so I am hoping this holds up better).

I've been going through the machine, and it is in decent shape with the exception of a few issues I am hoping to get some help on.

1) Starter grinding:

When cold, the starter has been grinding/losing engagement. When warm, the tractor starts with no issues.
Symptoms: the tractor will turn over, but partially through the cycle will slip and grind.

Initially I suspected worn teeth on the flywheel or starter, so I pulled the starter, inspected all the flywheel teeth, and also swapped the starter with a brand new one that I had. There are no chipped teeth on the flywheel, with only mild burrs. I went around and filed all the teeth to remove any burring that could hold up engagement.

Interestingly, if I hook a jump-pack to the battery it will start without issue. (Although the battery has not been acting sluggish.)

Question: Can a weak battery or bad connections cause this behavior in the absence of anything else mechanically wrong? I've never experienced this sort of thing before, even when trying to start a vehicle with a nearly dead battery.

Tonight I took the battery out, cleaned up the connections (they were actually really bad/corroded) and swapped in a brand-new interstate battery that I have in my cub cadet (has more CCA that the tractor requires).

Hoping for some pointers!
Is the ring gear on the Yanmar reversible ?

Issue 2) Overcharging
When running, the battery is overcharging by about a volt. The root cause is a voltage drop on the GREEN IGN wire. Reading the voltage at that wire shows nominal charging voltage, and about a volt difference between the BAT wire and the IGN wire.
If I jump the IGN wire directly to battery with the tractor running, the charging voltage drops to the correct level.

Question: IS there a common fix for this issue on these tractors?(maybe an area that commonly has a voltage drop?) When I've experienced this on other vehicles ,the fix was usually to install a relay to supply switched battery voltage directly to the sense wire and cut the voltage drops in the harness out of the equation.


Thanks and looking forward to working on this thing!
 

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Theres a fix for the over charge.
Heres a link to one thread on it, theres a bunch more.

As for the starter, you going in the right direction. Clean the ground wires also.

Oh and welcome.
 
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Congrats on the 330. Let's see some pics.
 

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On a diesel, I would consider replacing any wires in the starting system that even give you a hint of being problematic. Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I would clean all of the connections in the starting system, not just the battery cables.
And a good battery is really needed (which it sounds like you have).

None of this will work though until you show us some pics. :p
 

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Toehead, On your issue 2, overcharging. I'm not 100% sure of this number, but I believe at wide open throttle you should 14/14.5 volts measured at the battery. Some like 17 volts is overcharging! Dirty/corroded connections are one of the main reason for overcharging. These connections are ANY PLACE on the tractor and not just battery cables. Take a reading on battery at wide open throttle and report back.

Sorry can't help with first question. Bob
 
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As Bob mentioned above, volatge drops in the harness through which the voltage regulator senses the battery voltage will cause the overcharging condition -- not exactly ANYwhere, but certainly more than just the battery cable connections. Below is a diagram of the charging wiring excerpt on these little Yanmar powered tractors:
322 & 332 charging circuits.jpg


Note the arrow symbols on the wire runs...these show the direction of current flow. Wire A (the #900 red wire) is the path that the output of the regulator takes to pump current back into the battery when charging. The separate path that the regulator uses to SENSE the battery voltage condition is the #530 green wire that comes via the harness splice to the #500 yellow wire from the 10 amp fuse. This fuse itself is powered by the key switch in the START and RUN positions via the fusible link. Any and all of these components and connections can have abnormally large voltage drops due to age or corrosion, and collectively they can add up to tricking the voltage regulator into believing that the battery is not yet charged when it is actually being overcharged.

The Deere factory service bulletin on battery boiling/overcharging shows the use of a relay to bypass these potential voltage drops in the sensing path. This is the fix that Skwirl referenced in his thread link. The text of that bulletin is attached below. Let us know if you have other questions...

Chuck
 

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Hello! New member here, having picked up a 330 last week with about 1000 hours on it. (I've gotten tired of blowing up the transaxles on the box-store tractors, so I am hoping this holds up better).

I've been going through the machine, and it is in decent shape with the exception of a few issues I am hoping to get some help on.

1) Starter grinding:

When cold, the starter has been grinding/losing engagement. When warm, the tractor starts with no issues.
Symptoms: the tractor will turn over, but partially through the cycle will slip and grind.

Initially I suspected worn teeth on the flywheel or starter, so I pulled the starter, inspected all the flywheel teeth, and also swapped the starter with a brand new one that I had. There are no chipped teeth on the flywheel, with only mild burrs. I went around and filed all the teeth to remove any burring that could hold up engagement.

Interestingly, if I hook a jump-pack to the battery it will start without issue. (Although the battery has not been acting sluggish.)

Question: Can a weak battery or bad connections cause this behavior in the absence of anything else mechanically wrong? I've never experienced this sort of thing before, even when trying to start a vehicle with a nearly dead battery.

Tonight I took the battery out, cleaned up the connections (they were actually really bad/corroded) and swapped in a brand-new interstate battery that I have in my cub cadet (has more CCA that the tractor requires).

Hoping for some pointers!
Is the ring gear on the Yanmar reversible ?

Issue 2) Overcharging
When running, the battery is overcharging by about a volt. The root cause is a voltage drop on the GREEN IGN wire. Reading the voltage at that wire shows nominal charging voltage, and about a volt difference between the BAT wire and the IGN wire.
If I jump the IGN wire directly to battery with the tractor running, the charging voltage drops to the correct level.

Question: IS there a common fix for this issue on these tractors?(maybe an area that commonly has a voltage drop?) When I've experienced this on other vehicles ,the fix was usually to install a relay to supply switched battery voltage directly to the sense wire and cut the voltage drops in the harness out of the equation.


Thanks and looking forward to working on this thing!
Welcome To WFM!
Also, if you haven’t got them already I would get both the owners and shop manual.
That machine should hold up well, those little Yanmar’s have relatives running 24/7 in reefer trucks and I’ve yet to hear of one of the those hydrostats dying.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks all!

Great links, and apologies I missed the threads in advance. The fix seems very similar to that I have seen on other vehicles (namely honda GL1000 motorcycles).

Here are some pictures:
IMG_20201123_184948072.jpg

IMG_20201123_165855947.jpg


Here's a picture of the starter after I cleaned it up:
Nothing to write home about IMO
261405


Here a video of the behavior. This is with the fresh, brand new battery fully charged, with all connections checked and verified clean between battery and starter.

I think I have a new suspect here. I cleaned all the connections between battery and starter with no improvements. However, If I use a jumper directly from the battery to activate the solenoid it seems to work. I suspect (again) voltage drop in the harness causing the solenoid to not have enough holding force to keep the pinion extended on the compression stroke.

I bought two 30 amp relays today, and I'll wire them up to cut the "middle man" out of the equation. Hopefully that fixes it. I'll also pull the fuses and ignition switch plug and clean them with contact cleaner as PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I feel like a pretty big dope.

I got the relays in and installed (pardon the wingnuts.. was convenient for testing. I'll replace them with lockwashers and regular nuts).
261410

The good news was that my overcharging issue is gone.

The bad news is that the starting/grinding issue was still there!
I confirmed that when I manually triggered the relay, the tractor turns over fine, so I started in on checking the rest of the connections upstream in the harness. I checked and cleaned the fuse blocks, the ignition switch, ETC with no improvement and no explanation for why it would work manually but fail when in the system, when I noticed the true culprit: The neutral safety switch.

When the diesel cranks the handle shakes around a bit and the switch turns the starter off an on. Holding the handle steady fixed the issue.
261411

Lesson learned! That's a crisp 100$ I should have saved if I had been a little more observant :)I'll leave the relay in for now as I already drilled a mounting hole and cut the harness for the new connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like this tractor has come a ways! (I am in MA)

261424


One further question: Regarding the transaxle fluid: I would usually change it to be on the safe side, but the fluid in the sight glass looks brand new. Thoughts on if I should change it to be on the safe side?



I also notice the hydro lever will move faster and faster while driving, but i'll check the manual for that adjustment.
 

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Fluid I would do, just for piece of mind. But, I guess I wouldn't be in a rush to do it...

I don't know a whole lot about the 330/332, but I assume they share the hydro levers of the 318. There are threads on how to fix the creep issue. IIRC it's some holes that get wallowed out and perhaps the little shock/dampner that the system uses. Hopefully someone that knows more about that can give you a link.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looks like I am missing # 12 and #13 from the fiche. The bolt is there (kept there just by the length of it), and the hydro linkage is just riding on the bolt.
261433


It looks like both are available but #13 is 43 $ ! and 12 is 9$! That seems pretty steep to me, but this is an important safety thing so I might need to bite the bullet.
 

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Check the price on #11, lol. But sit down before they yell you. I sent it back and fixed my old one.
 

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I believe but not 100% sure, item 13 is part of the return to neutral when you step on brake pedal. This allows you to press on the brake pedal and the spacer (13) plus additional linkage puts the hydro in neutral. I seldom use my brake pedal except for "park". Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Looks like you are right. I took it all apart tonight and it looks like this rides in a slot and is actuated by the brake lever.

I ordered all the parts, including number 14 as the threads were pretty well mangled. Driving it without any link between the brakes and hydro is fine for me, but if somebody else hopped on could be a safety issue.

It also looks like there are a bunch of safeties removed on this machine. I see at least two spots on the harness with cut purple wires.
 

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I feel like a pretty big dope.

I got the relays in and installed (pardon the wingnuts.. was convenient for testing. I'll replace them with lockwashers and regular nuts).
View attachment 261410
The good news was that my overcharging issue is gone.

The bad news is that the starting/grinding issue was still there!
I confirmed that when I manually triggered the relay, the tractor turns over fine, so I started in on checking the rest of the connections upstream in the harness. I checked and cleaned the fuse blocks, the ignition switch, ETC with no improvement and no explanation for why it would work manually but fail when in the system, when I noticed the true culprit: The neutral safety switch.

When the diesel cranks the handle shakes around a bit and the switch turns the starter off an on. Holding the handle steady fixed the issue.
View attachment 261411
Lesson learned! That's a crisp 100$ I should have saved if I had been a little more observant :)I'll leave the relay in for now as I already drilled a mounting hole and cut the harness for the new connection.
I would leave the relay there. I installed relays on my 332 years ago for starting issues if I shut it off then tried to restart. I had to let it cool for a while before the starter would work.(it just clicked). Since installing the relays, it hasn't had a problem in probably 10 years. The other relay dropped my charging voltage to low 14's from mid 16's.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I would leave the relay there. I installed relays on my 332 years ago for starting issues if I shut it off then tried to restart. I had to let it cool for a while before the starter would work.(it just clicked). Since installing the relays, it hasn't had a problem in probably 10 years. The other relay dropped my charging voltage to low 14's from mid 16's.
Tom

That's great feedback. I'll just leave it be for now as it seems to be working fine and the battery is now charging at a normal level.

Now to get the return to neutral working again :)

Can anybody shoot me an image of your parts 16, 17, 18, 19 in the below? I think mine has been backyard engineered (the proportions of the components look completely different from the fiche).

261492
 

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Those parts are for setting the resistance of the hydro lever. Theres a spec for it, like 10lbs or something.
Part #18 should be friction discs. You would adjust #15 to set the pressure.
You should identify which version of hydro linkage you have. There are 4 versions used over the years.
 

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Skwirl and Toehead,

The 330 was only made in one year, 1986 with a serial number range of M00330X360001 to 420000. The parts illustration above is the only one that should apply, and I am sure it is the one shown in the PC 2057 for the 330 tractor. It is of course possible that some intermixed parts from other linkage versions as used on the 318 or 332 tractors have been substituted by a prior owner to make 'repairs' so that is something to check out.

I often find the Deere illustrations to be a bit distorted looking compared to the physical parts, so take them with a grain of salt rather than expecting literal accuracy...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for that. Looks like it might be right then. Here is what I have. The friction discs look much larger than the parts diagram, which threw me for a loop.


261496
 
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