[Mtechnik-3]

Have your issues slowed? Did you purchase the 2 way plow link I sent you? Ready for the snow

 

[Toehead]

Wifey nixed the plow (for now), but i've been tinkering on the tractor. PTO is rebuilt, deck is getting there (still need to fabricate the backing rings).

Latest thing: It's hard to start in the cold, so I pulled the glow plug leads and ohmed out the glow plugs after confirming that I am getting about 11 volts applied when the key is cycled. One is open circuit. and the others are good but a little worn externally (snapped the wire connection thread off due to rust).

I ordered 4 NGK Y103V plugs (got the cross reference from another thread on this site) for about 5 dollars and change per plug. They'll be at the parts store first thing in the morning. I'll change them out and hope for a lot easier starting.

I also put a new fuel filter and housing on as mine was leaking from the press-fit nipple on the outlet. The replacement has one piece construction, so they recognized the design flaw and corrected it.

 

[Mtechnik-3]

Sorry to hear that about plow, but come spring they are cheaper, I did see another for 350 in east brookfield ma.

Sounds like your 330 will be a smooth running machine come spring.

 

[Toehead]

New glow plugs are in. Needed to grind down a socket to clear the lines and valve covers, but the machine started right up in 10 degree weather. I'll put this one in the win column.

 

[Toehead]

I've got an H2/levers/lines from a 318 sitting in my workshop, and I am wondering about upgrading this 330 to H2. I've seen some threads about this upgrade, but nothing indicating specifically how much fabrication is needed for this swap.

Has anybody here done this, and have some pointers/caveats for me?

 

[Skwirl]

There are quite a few threads on this.
Heres a very good one, its adding h3 but same amount of work.

John Deere 318 322 and 332 H3 Conversion

Like many of you, I have a need for H3 on my open frame 300 series. When doing a search here or on Google on the subject you will find many empty threads about people wanting to do it, or those that just bought the AuxHyd kit. Here is my attempt at a write up on what it takes to add another...

www.wfmachines.com

Being it's the same amount of work, consider going with h3. I added it to my 318, using the linked thread for help. It's on the want list for my 332 also.

 

[rfuerst317]

I've got an H2/levers/lines from a 318 sitting in my workshop, and I am wondering about upgrading this 330 to H2. I've seen some threads about this upgrade, but nothing indicating specifically how much fabrication is needed for this swap.

Has anybody here done this, and have some pointers/caveats for me?

I added H2 hydraulics to my 330 I purchased a kit from a tractor vendor . Other than struggling with a tight space the addition isn't too difficult . Getting all lines tight is a struggle as you are turning the nuts very small revolutions because of the space available . But the end result is more capability with the additional hydraulics .

 

[mjydrafter]

I added H2 hydraulics to my 330 I purchased a kit from a tractor vendor . Other than struggling with a tight space the addition isn't too difficult . Getting all lines tight is a struggle as you are turning the nuts very small revolutions because of the space available . But the end result is more capability with the additional hydraulics .

When I added PS to my 140, I had to make a couple wrenches to get to everything. That was after buying a set of crowsfoot wrenches as well. The fun one, was cutting a slot into a 12 pt combo wrench, so it was like a line wrench. Then I cut it off at an angle and welded it back together so "it could get around a corner". I think I bent a line wrench too, back before I figured out the crow's foot wrenches.

One of the nice things about having some throw away wrenches around. No guilt cutting them up and modifying them.

 

[Toehead]

Agreed! If you have a welder, grinder, and cutting wheel, you can make almost any tool you need

Thanks all for the pointers. I'll probably wait just a bit on this upgrade, as it's a little more involved that I want to get into in my unheated shop where the tractor is currently parked. I've got a bike taking up space in the heated area, but it's going to be gone soon and I'll move the tractor over there.


For now I've been trying to find some stock big enough to make those deck backing rings (5.5" needed) . The widest I currently have in my shop is 3". Buying it online is nearly as expensive as just buying the Deere M153372. I'll hit some scrap metal places and see if I can find something suitable.

 

[chuckv]

Towhead,

This giant flat washer looks like it would be a very good start as base material for the deck backing ring...and cost effective at under $3 each... These are rather thick at 5/16 inch, but maybe that is OK if you use longer bolts.

3 inch USS Flat Washer, Plain Steel (5-1/2" OD)

3" USS Flat Washer, Low Carbon Steel, Plain - Click HERE for pricing.

www.uturnfasteners.com

Chuck

 

[Toehead]

Towhead,

This giant flat washer looks like it would be a very good start as base material for the deck backing ring...and cost effective at under $3 each... These are rather thick at 5/16 inch, but maybe that is OK if you use longer bolts.

3 inch USS Flat Washer, Plain Steel (5-1/2" OD)

3" USS Flat Washer, Low Carbon Steel, Plain - Click HERE for pricing.

www.uturnfasteners.com

Chuck

Chuck,


You're a handy guy to have around! I looked at all my usual suppliers and most didn't have anything quite that big in stock, at least for prices that made it worthwhile to me (fastenall wants 15 $ per washer, Mcmaster doesn't have them, etc).

That's a great lead, and I appreciate it.

 

[Toehead]

I ordered the washers and had a tracking number within an hour, so they are an efficient operation as well.

Thanks again, will report back when I get them.

-Brendan

 

[Toehead]

Washers arrived (I have no idea how they manage to sell these for 2.89$ each) and they are perfect for this. I cut them to the right shape on the bandsaw, cleaned them up on the disc grinder, then made a stack of them on the mill and drilled the holes through all so that they are close to identical.

A little phosphoric acid etching primer and followed by undercoat and I am in business. (I cut the bolts down after this image; I bought the only carriage bolts in the store that were long enough, but they were too long).

 

[chuckv]

Brendan,

Those worked out really well !!! Did you also weld them down to the deck or just use them to clamp against the spindle housings? I can imagine that welding such thick spacers to the thin deck material could be a challenge...

Maybe the moderators here can put this washer vendor and this thread in the FAQ so other members can make use of these washers as deck reinforcement -- sure beats the Deere price tag! might have to split out the info in another more concise thread on this single subject.

Chuck

 

[Skwirl]

That some nice work, toehead.
Any chance you feel like making 3 more, lol.
I could use a set.

 

[Toehead]

Thanks all!,

Chuck, I can make a separate thread if you think that would be helpful for inclusion in the FAQ. I'd love to contribute something back!

Skwirl,

I can make some more if you are in a tough spot, let me know.

 

[Toehead]

Spent some time cleaning up a crusty used belly pan I got off of ebay for a really good price.
Most of the perforations were clogged/rusted.

Some time with a MAPP torch and wire brush and they are all clear.

 

[rwmeyer]

I'd do little more with a wire brush, then a rust converter paint to prevent future corrosion. A couple of top coats and you're all set. Bob

 

[Toehead]

Done and done

I really like the phosphoric acid-based primers/ rust converters. I've had excellent luck with them over the years.

The only thing better is evaporust !

 

[tmac58star]

Nice. Your belly screen looks like the used one I got on the auction site for my 322...mine was off of a 330, which was a little different, but it still worked. After I cleaned, descaled and de-rusted the pan as best as I could I hit it with a light coat of self-etching primer...which also does a good job of stopping rust. Then applied a couple of light coats of black rattle-can paint...Rustoleum black rust stopper or something like that. No worries so far.
I learned about the self-etching primer back when I was tinkering with and restoring antique outboard motors.
Keep us updated as you go further with your 330, and pix are always welcome.