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I would like to purchase both a 8" or 10" plow and a tiller for my 316. I have located several tillers that come with hitches, hoses and pumps. But the hitches dont look the same as the one the JD dealer suggested for a 316. I have the print out of the hitch, pump and part No's That JD suggested. The Hitch/lift arms will operate off my rock shaft. Its not a 3 point. Also do i have to use a three point hitch with a plow. And lastly what determines the size of plow i will need, ie. 8",10" or 12" I want to increase the size of my sweet corn crop. And doing it all by hand,pick and shovel sucks. Thanks Bob
 

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Bob, the 30" tiller I have will fit right up to yours. Do you think it won't?
It doesn't have to be a front or mid mount pump. I am confused with what your looking for. You never got back with me.


GRP
 

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Bob -

You can get plows with both the three point mount and the sleeve hitch mount. It's your choice. Your 316 should easily pull a 10" and probably a 12" without any problems...

3Pt plows are a little harder to come by.

I also have a Sleeve Hitch Plow, Single Gang Disc and Cultivator that I'm going to sell. If you are intersted, email me. My email is in my profile.

-Chris
 

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Hi guys. Looking for help for a friend who is having an unusual problem with his 285 overheating. Engine is an FD590V Kawasaki L/C vertical shaft.

Some history:
He acquired this tractor with a house he bought back about 2003(?). No problem until the hot summer months 80/90 degree stuff it would occasionally appear to overheat. Removed thermostat, no help.

Late 2006, it sprung a leak at the case gasket. I took it apart for him, replaced the gaskets, coolant pump, cam, oil pump gear, governor gear, oil and temp. sensors, new thermostat, and hoses. Original temp. sending unit was not working at teardown.

Heads were NOT removed, only valve covers.

Radiator did not show corrosion or leak. New 50/50 anti freeze installed.

As usual, it did fine until the hot summer months. Same overheating problem but, at least it does turn on the red warning light.
He has been just letting the engine cool a couple hours before finishing. His total mowing time is probably 2-2.5 hours. Engine runs great, full power. It does seem to overheat more frequently this season. (Maybe because of all the rain and extra mowing days!)

Any ideas?

tommyhawk
 

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My first question if the light is not coming on or anti freeze is not boiling out why does he think it is over heating? Kawasaki's do run warm and you wouldn't want to touch them shortly after shutting them down at least my 345 you wouldn't and it is normal. I would put a temperature unit on it if it is bad and see what is really happening. Roger
 

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Thanks for the reply, Roger. As usual, I did leave out some important info in the first post and didn't state some things clearly.

As mentioned, the sending unit was replaced (2006) and is working properly. Shortly after the light comes on, it starts puking anti-freeze out the over flow tube. He just mentioned yesterday that the hot coolant runs down on the deck. Apparently the hose has gotten disconnected from the recovery tank. He was going to check that out and fix, but I don't think it will change anything except he may not have to add more coolant to the radiator each time after it cools.

I believe this is a fairly rare problem with the L/C Kawasaki engines. Very little in the archives about them. I'm wondering if it has a leaking head gasket. No white smoke or odor from the exhaust. No coolant in the oil or vice versa. I haven't checked compression or spark plug coloring since way back. The owner is a little apprehensive about doing some complicated repairs, but he is learning. My old back and knees don't enjoy this work as much these days. More than happy to help him fix this one if possible. Probably will have to pull the heads to rule out head gaskets or damaged heads.


tommyhawk
 

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So what has happened since july? I have a 320 that was overheating too,mine was the water pump impeller broken.After replacement it overheated in hot weather too. It used to get so hot it melted the plastic valve covers resulting in massive oil leaks. Now it isnt boiling over but the red light comes on in hot weather. I suspect the sender is bad but shut it off anyway. Where would be a good place to check actual temp and with what? I suspect the sender has oddball threads like the oil sender,brittish pipe?
 

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Marty, we haven't talked about it lately, but I'd say it's still getting hot or he would made a special call if it didn't. lol
You could be right about the threads on the sending units. I never thought about comparing them to our standard tapered and straight pipe threads.
I'm suspecting head or head gasket problems with the 285. He is at least the second owner of the tractor and has had this problem since day 1, although it does better when the weather is cooler, as in 50-60 degrees. Might get into that after mowing season is over.
Let me know if you learn anything about your 320. Hope you find the problem.

tommyhawk
 
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