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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figured I'd document my progress on this project incase anyone ever runs into the same issue. Seems like all at once I'm having issues with my 1952 B. 1st the electrical which was a bad battery post, and cables but still has a lag in starting up.

Since I bought the tractor only the amp gauge worked. There's coolant in the radiator, and the oil drips out when you open up the bolt on the crank case. No smoke, odd noise or roughness in running has ever happened playing with the tractor and the past owner seemed pretty honest , legit and knew what he was doing for maintenance on this tractor. Planning on using the tractor more I wanted to make sure everything was up to par. I replaced all my gauges....

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Unfortunately that didn't help with oil pressure issue. I did a ton of research and read a lot of similar stores and replies.......even from others on this site to check the lines and pump. I'll open up the crank case........which I just resealed after discovering it was pinching my light wires. Hopefully I can shimmy my hands in there and not have to drop the pump. I've read it can be a clogged screen or line, sheared sqaure head, unhooked line, or bad pump. Figures crossed just a loose lin. It leaks around the bottom cover so I wonder if this was open up before. I'll post more of my progress.
 

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You probably did make sure the line from the crankcase to the new O/P gage was clean and not plugged or kinked, so you could unscrew the line at the C/C and crank the engine with the mag switched off. Put a rag over the fitting to avoid a big mess if it is actually pumping. Or make up a line and fitting to come over to the side into a container. If no oil there, slip a wire down the fitting to see if it has a heavy blob in there blocking it.
About the only easy thing I can think of at the moment. Oh yeah, check out the section in the manual about how to adjust the oil pressure. That adjustment is near the oil level check.
Hope it is something easy, but removing the o/p is not too hard, just messy.

tommyhawk
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You probably did make sure the line from the crankcase to the new O/P gage was clean and not plugged or kinked, so you could unscrew the line at the C/C and crank the engine with the mag switched off. Put a rag over the fitting to avoid a big mess if it is actually pumping. Or make up a line and fitting to come over to the side into a container. If no oil there, slip a wire down the fitting to see if it has a heavy blob in there blocking it.
About the only easy thing I can think of at the moment. Oh yeah, check out the section in the manual about how to adjust the oil pressure. That adjustment is near the oil level check.
Hope it is something easy, but removing the o/p is not too hard, just messy.

tommyhawk
Thanks for the advice. Yes read about just bumping the starter to see. Figured start with the easy things first. Remove the line from the gauge to the top of the crank case and see if that's blocked. I've read wire or compressed air. Atleast with a wire you'll see if there's oil on it, then do the same thing with the line from the crank case to the pump. The videos I watched online seems like the biggest issue is getting your hands down to losen or tighten the lines or not getting a face full of oil or the pump on your face dropping it.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Later tonight I removed the top line half from the gauge to the crank case cover and blew it out onto a white rag. You can see oil came out, but no debris.
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I attempted to run a wire down the the line from the cover down to the pump. My wire was too thick but had oil residue on it. I also blew that out.

I bumped the starter a couple of times with the ignition off and rag over the line. Nothing.

I opened up the cover and was able to get a picture inside.
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Good and bad that it seems like everything is tight and together.

After I post this I'm going to attempt to reach my hand down in there and feel the screen........

Any further work I might remove the steering colum and seat to lay across the platform. This might be a harder project to attempt with my injuries......
 

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I’ve found that some of the gauges are not the best quality & aren’t accurate. I believe the adjustment for your B is on the outside of maincase under belt pulley area also. I had to change out the pump in my An earlier this year, not a fun job, but doable without splitting the tractor. Another common problem is the drive coupler for the oil pump. make sure it’s not cracked
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I’ve found that some of the gauges are not the best quality & aren’t accurate. I believe the adjustment for your B is on the outside of maincase under belt pulley area also. I had to change out the pump in my An earlier this year, not a fun job, but doable without splitting the tractor. Another common problem is the drive coupler for the oil pump. make sure it’s not cracked
Thanks for the advise. I got these gauges off ebay which I was very skeptical of vs buying them from steiner or another more legit dealer. I've read about a cracked or busted sqaure head coupler. Mine seems to be in good shape.

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I guess I never thought about trying "dialing" the pressure from outside. Who knows maybe it's not set correctly.........simple fixes first.

Unfortunately I'm in the house for night. Sore and time to walk away. It's going to be a super rainy weekend so plenty of time to toy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I feel like the news another hourly update.
I reached my hand down into the crank case and felt around. No sludge or anything around the screen.........good and bad again.

I ended up hooking up the upper line again but not running it through the dash. I have a compressor attachment with a ball needle I stuck down into the line. This time blowing air I could hear oil bubbling.

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I put my hand down in the crank case again to see if I could feel the bubbles. They weren't coming from the screen but from the 2 connections on top the pump.
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That picture is just from one online as an example. The lines feel tight, but I wounder if something isn't tightly sealed and letting air out. Or maybe I'm not experienced enough with the pump and it's like cleaning out a carb air can't go through a passage?

I took the compressor to my old gauge and was able to move the needle. I removed the newer gauge, removed the elbow and was able to move the needle too . I did notice there was some oil between the elbow and gauge though.

I was starting to feel sore and figured it was time to walk away. I feel like I'm getting somewhere or eliminating what could be wrong. I got oil and it's clean so that's a plus. This weekend is going to be a good weekend to hide in the shop and look it over more. Blowing the compressed air I'm going to put the cover back on and see if I can get any oil out from the lines.

Is there a way to prime these pumps?

I'll check the oil pressure screw too.
 

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Only way to drive pump is by turning flywheel which turns camshaft which turns driveshaft to oil pump. You can unplug spark plug wires and use your electric starter and watch to make sure pump shaft is being turned and nothing slipping. Filter housing can also have holes in it from years of condensation forming, but yours looks pretty good from the pictures I saw. I had to replace mine on my A from to many holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Only way to drive pump is by turning flywheel which turns camshaft which turns driveshaft to oil pump. You can unplug spark plug wires and use your electric starter and watch to make sure pump shaft is being turned and nothing slipping. Filter housing can also have holes in it from years of condensation forming, but yours looks pretty good from the pictures I saw. I had to replace mine on my A from to many holes.
The reason to unplug the spark plug wires or mag is to advoid a start up? Sorry if that seems dumb of me to ask. I've been learning a lot about this tractor few weeks now. Which is good and bad also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Tonight on channel 3 news......

I unplugged the spark plug wires and bumped the starter with a cloth over the line hoping I blew something free with the air......no luck.

I figured might as well play with the pressure " dial" I took off the nut cover, loosened the smaller nut turned the bolt to the left just a hair and tightened everything up. I wasn't expecting anything so I didn't cover the line........ I struck gold when I bumped the starter. I ended up pinching a nut fitting where the line comes in so I couldn't put the line back on to the gauge. Unfortunately my local Napa is closed on Sundays but hey I got oil up the line so that's progress. Now the questions are if my gauges are accurate, and how much do I need to dial in the pressure and why was it off?

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
In reading your threads, I've been wondering...know any old fellows thereabouts? Someone who may have farmed/maintained a tractor like yours. Might be worth asking around...
My neighbor/cub cadet buddy's grandpa is a retired ih mechanic but recently built a shop and repairs/rebuilds equipment for certain people. He was going to be the person to talk to if I couldn't get the issue figured out. He's going to be coming over to help me set up my plow. A guy I work with use to own a g pulling tractor you'd have to talk to him on one of his 3 good days a year to get anything out of him. Between the guys on here, my manual, and some online hunting I'm getting this issue figured out I believe.
 

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Normal wear in the engine and pump will cause oil pressure loss. The main bearings on these tractors have shims on bearing caps to allow adjustment as the engine wears. These are also on the connecting rod caps as well. You’re service manual should cover this in detail. They may need to be looked at to ensure they aren’t getting to loose. You may need to redial oil pressure if you end up removing any shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Well today I went on a goose chase for the adapter. My local napa had hardly anything in stock. I went to a nearby ace that has an excellent plumbing section, nothing either. I figured fastenal has everything under the sun and was the go to place for any little nut or bolt growing up and went to the next town over. Arriving there the place was locked up more than fort knocks. I called to see what was up. I had a really nice lady and she said with covid and lack of help they had to close up the store part, and just be a special order ware house. She took my line and adapter and looked around but they didn't have anything in stock and it would be 100.00 minimum for special orders. She said more than likely things for Fastenals won't be getting any better. She suggested some places for me to try. I figured since I was out of town to try another napa. They had more in stock and decided to just get a whole new fitting off the line.

I got everything hooked up and got the tractor fired up which took some effort but still 0 oil preasure. I adjusted the dial on the side with no luck. My buddy is going to bring his gauge to hook up and see.

While I was checking the gauges. My new amp gauge is maxed out too at almost full throttle.

The tractor seems rough unless at full throttle. I checked the spark plugs. They're auotlites 386's which is what was recommended. They were pretty black so I cleaned them up but I'll still get new ones.

I noticed some rust in the bowl so the carb might need some cleaning too. It's just odd all at once I'm having all these issues. I'd like to tackle them but not working I have limited funds.

I guess wait and see what the gauge reads tomorrow evening and go from there.

I planned on doing a whole oil change, coolant change, clean out the oil bath, change the plugs. This winter......which should've done right away maybe a dirty or clogged air filter could be the reason for the dirty plugs, and rough start up/idle.......maybe even oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I opened up the oil bath tonight. It looks pretty clean from the outside. A few little bugs floating around. The videos I've been watching theres usually a pudding like mix in the canister. What I knotice is the moister droplets off the conister and the red rust type residue. I never had the tractor sit outside.......not to say the past owners didn't but I can completely see how rain can get in there.

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Definitely get an accurate pressure gauge, I use one from HF and it works fine but borrowing one will be cheaper. Forget the adjustment on the side of the tractor, the one on my A made no difference although the adjustment on one of my diesels was very sensitive and worked out fine but those diesels are completely different animals.

The oil pressure gauge on my A always reads low but it does register. When checked against my HF gauge it read 11psi. which I could live with. Hopefully you will find you have a faulty gauge.
 

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As for your air filter canister, I would clean off the rust best you can and make sure to apply some oil to it. The tractor running and moving should splash enough on it to keep it oil covered and prevent the rust from reforming. Make sure the bowl is filled to the proper level. Not getting tan very much May have caused some of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As for your air filter canister, I would clean off the rust best you can and make sure to apply some oil to it. The tractor running and moving should splash enough on it to keep it oil covered and prevent the rust from reforming. Make sure the bowl is filled to the proper level. Not getting tan very much May have caused some of this.
That's what I was thinking too. Like every engine it's best to keep it moving even just sitting idle 20 minutes. I figured too maybe the carb is dirty from the low gas and maybe rust getting through it. Hoping the next season running it hard on equipment will fix everything.
 
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