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You probably did make sure the line from the crankcase to the new O/P gage was clean and not plugged or kinked, so you could unscrew the line at the C/C and crank the engine with the mag switched off. Put a rag over the fitting to avoid a big mess if it is actually pumping. Or make up a line and fitting to come over to the side into a container. If no oil there, slip a wire down the fitting to see if it has a heavy blob in there blocking it.
About the only easy thing I can think of at the moment. Oh yeah, check out the section in the manual about how to adjust the oil pressure. That adjustment is near the oil level check.
Hope it is something easy, but removing the o/p is not too hard, just messy.

tommyhawk
 

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I'll put in a plug for Evergreen Gages too. Our B needed all new gages too, and this company was the only one recommended. Glad I followed the advice given 10-12 years ago. They work!
Another tip for the two cylinder letter tractors. When left sitting for a while, put a sock over the air stack to keep mud dobbers from building nests inside. We took off the assembly and pressure washed the tar out of it. Got gobs of mud out of there, figured it to be clean. The stack was so rusted, we cut it off to replace it. Once we could see inside there was still a lot left in there behind the baffle where the water couldn't reach.
On the health issues, just keep focusing on the vast improvements over the time. It can't be easy, but as long as you have a will to do things, even at a slower pace, keep that good attitude going. Having a tractor hobby to keep your mind in the zone, is a good thing. Always gonna be something wrong with them, usually just minor stuff, but keeps the learning process going. As Red Green would say, "hang in there, we're all pullin' for ya".

tommyhawk
 
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