[oleboy]

Hey gang, I've got the opportunity to pick up an older Briggs & Stratton 18HP for a decent price from a fellow, and am considering buying it to repower my H3 so it has more grunt. Then once I take the K321 out, put it in the H1 since THAT motor has a broken rod. Given the condition of the B&S 18 twin, this might be a win-win to have both tractors fully functional.

I've watched several videos about others who have done this with the new stuff, and this interests me.
I'm looking for feedback, hopefully, where others have done this with the older twins. maybe they could share some input of what will be involved.

Dom

 

[shadetree]

Here is a 23 Vanguard (B&S) that should give you some ideas.

http://www.wfmachines.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi?pg=prev&topic=335&page=228222

 

[oleboy]

Thanks for the response, Shady.

I think the older B&S II may be a different animal as far as head width is compared to the newer Vanguard. Which is why I'm wondering if anyone has messed with them. Another concern is the shaft diameter. I think the B&S II is 1-1/8". That's not a real big concern, as I'm sure if needed, something can be machined up.

Looking at the images in the thread you shared with me, I think the process would be very similar for the most part. And considering the engine I'm looking at, and the fact parts are like hens teeth, that's another concern I have. Should I even mess with it? I've read that this particular engine is highly sought after, for whatever reason.

From searching for any info pertaining the older style, I'm not finding much really.

 

[charms]

If you are talking about the opposed twin Briggs, I think you'll have trouble making it fit a 140 without cutting the side rails.

 

[jas24]

I just put one in my 317

you might have trouble finding the stubb shaft for briggs as it is discontinued . The briggs was a little smaller overall in size I did not need to cut anything (frame) very happy with the motor

 

[oleboy]

Good info, Cliff. Cutting the side-rails wouldn't be too bad if I had too. That's something that could be easily spliced back together down the road.

Jeff, the stub-shaft is what the clutch would get connected to isn't it? That's my main concern.

I'd be interested in hearing any and all feedback you have pertaining to your project. As it stands, the mounting of the clutch is priority if I'm going to purchase it. The seller said it ran real good when he pushed it in the corner of his shop two years ago, and for $75, it's worth looking into if I can make it work fairly easily.

 

[jas24]

The sub shaft in the picture above in a original deere It could have worked just elongate the holes a bit. The 140 drive shaft is different than the 317 I believe. The briggs crank centerline was about 3/16 higher than the KT17 not a problem with the double joints. my PTO from the kohkler bolted right up. I had to sand down four bosses under PTO plate to get it to bolt up against the block also made a small shim for the crank to keep clutch and coil gap correct. Hope this helps

 

[oleboy]

Any thoughts help. Times a tickin. As you see by my previous post at 3:45 AM (I'm usually asleep!) my mind has been on this motor. I'm thinking I might have to change the drive shaft. Problem is the motor I have never seen. It would be great to have them side-by-side for comparisons.

I might just forget the thought considering the drive distance is 4 hours round trip.

 

[shadetree]

You did check all the pages (I believe there are 5) I sent the link for by clicking on next page in the bottom right corner. He kept his clutch by having a driveshaft adapter made.

I have a little formula i keep in Excel that I enter the miles I need to travel, cost of a gallon of gas, and estimated MPG of the vehicle I'm driving. The gas cost often voids the trip.

 

[oleboy]

I rechecked the link and followed via "next page". Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

That thread is very informative and documented well. Quite the process going through everything that needs to be dealt with to assure a well thought out repower.

The more I dig into what's involved I think I am going to pass getting the older 18hp twin. No telling how much actual time is on it, and it could blow up within hours of finishing. Not worth the drive, time and expense involved.

I am however, book marking the topic for future reference if I ever decide to repower with the modern engine sometime in the future. But for now, rebuilding makes better sense.

Thanks all for the input. I DO appreciate it.
Dom

 

[shadetree]

I've got that book marked too. He did a very good job on his red, white and blue 140. Several others have done well documented repowers for other models.