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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some may remember my post last year about converting my 330 to foot pedal drive. Here is that post. It still gets used every day and still works great. But since then I've wondered how I could improve on it. I wanted to make it work better, be easier to use, look better, and be less destructive to the fender pan. I think v2 meets (or will meet) all of those criteria. It's still a work in progress.

The only parts I used for this mod is a pedal assembly from a John Deere LT155, courtesy of ebay, and a hydrostatic dampener, courtesy of a 455 rear I had. The rest was scrap I had laying around.

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First thing I did was remove everything old. That includes removing the steering brakes (not an issue on the 330!) They will be moved to the left side soon.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Then I pulled the gas tank, and removed all the linkage connecting the swashplate on the pump to the lever in the dash...
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Testing the location of the foot pedal assembly- I wanted it to be out of the way of the pan, so I wouldn't have to make any big holes like I did last time.

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Then I made some quick supports for the pedal assembly. This ended up being changed a good bit after I took these pictures.

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Then I drilled a hole to run a 1/2" steel rod through the frame, similar to what I did last time. The holes in the front deck support tabs turned out to work perfectly for this, and I was able to drill through one less thick layer of metal :) Yes, I know it's a mess underneath. I just got it and have been rebuilding it.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Test fitting the rod to the assemble before welding it...

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And then welding a tab to the bottom of the rod underneath. I cut a notch in the firewall for this tab, so it would be out of the way of the deck driveshaft. This another thing you don't have to worry about on the 300 series.

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I then welded an extension to the bar coming off the swashplate. This was easy, as it's a solid flat plate on the 430, unlike my 330 which was a round rod.

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And then testing to see how the pieces join together. I skipped adding a turnbuckle from the rod like I did last time. The neutral position isn't going to change and I never touch it on the 330.

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The last thing I did before putting the pan on for a test drive is add a dampener. I knew it was very important from last time, so I did it before testing it. I had one from a 455, so I bolted it to the frame and the linkage rod.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And that was it for today. Here is the first test!

The next steps are to move the brakes over to the left, and come up with a way to return to neutral when I release either pedal. Anyone have any ideas for that part? The swashplate doesn't have a spring like the newer K91/K92 axles, so I've got to be creative. Anyway, thanks for reading. Hopefully more updates soon!

Luke
 

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Nice and it even works. Looks like the spacing between the two pedals could use a bigger gap.
 
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I only mentioned it because it looks like you were struggling a bit with the placement of your footing and spacing available where it’s located. It’s working though so take what I said with a grain of salt.
 

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Just an excellent thread Luke (y). It's pretty interesting stuff so everybody benefits even if we aren't doing a mod like that.


And that was it for today. Here is the first test!

The next steps are to move the brakes over to the left, and come up with a way to return to neutral when I release either pedal. Anyone have any ideas for that part? The swashplate doesn't have a spring like the newer K91/K92 axles, so I've got to be creative. Anyway, thanks for reading. Hopefully more updates soon!

Luke
 
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Really good and thanks for posting this. I have this update to make on my 430 at some point, probably after I put the loader on it : ). Actually, now that I write that, I should probably put the loader on it before adding this mod to make sure it's not in the way.
 

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Or put the foot controls on and build the loader around it.
 
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Thank you very much for posting these pics!This will help me a ton.

I plan to use a self centering (neutral) hydro damper from a 1025r that will bring the pedals back to neutral without springs. It was $45 new on ebay.


Treat that swashplate gently, they're brittle. Luckily they can be welded back together, lol.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you very much for posting these pics!This will help me a ton.

I plan to use a self centering (neutral) hydro damper from a 1025r that will bring the pedals back to neutral without springs. It was $45 new on ebay.


Treat that swashplate gently, they're brittle. Luckily they can be welded back together, lol.

Wait- such a thing exists? That’s what I’ve been looking for for months! Can’t wait to look one up! Thank you for the info.
 
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