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On 318 B43G do I have to remove the motor to get the "blower housing" off?

1267 Views 12 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  inspired_metal
I tried the search function, but all that yielded is "Why a 318 is better than a 4__." I don't really care...I own a 318 not a 4__

I just bought the tractor and there is a lot of oil in the fins on the motor. Will I have to pull the motor to clean all this or can I get them off w/o pulling it.
I fiddled around with them a little last night with no luck. It seemed like there were screws below the frame. The problem is I don't have a power washer at home and I want to know what I will need to do at the carwash.
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Are you just trying to get the side tin off?

If you are the only bolt that is a pain is on the right side under the oil filter. I have been able to get to it through one of the holes in the frame.
That is what I am after. The black stuff on the motor. I pulled the big green pieces off to get at the motor, but I could see a ton of oil and grass in there when I changed the plugs.

Just pull the motor. Even if you are moving slow, you should have it on your workbench in under an hour. All of the tin is easily accessed and removed on your workbench. Plus- it will give you a closeup view of what's going on underneath the tin. It's not uncommon for the oil filter mount to loosen on the side of the engine- resulting in the mess you are talking about.

Also- it is absolutely imperative on a 318 that the large, rectangular screen be installed on the bottom of the tractor frame. It keeps most of the grass clippings and leaves out of the engine compartment. Otherwise, it will pack grass and junk in the cooling fins of the motor like crazy.

Good luck!
I'll second what Mike has said. On a "new to me" used tractor, you have no idea what you'll find before you pull the engine and remove all the tin.
You may find that former owners opened up the tin with the engine in place, and that it looks clean until you get it on the bench, get the flywheel shroud off, and discover tons of junk in there.

I'd also suggest pulling the flywheel so that you can clean up the generator stator and that area.

By the time I was done with mine, I used up most of an engine overhaul gasket set because I had to reseal the intake manifold and grind the valves, and found a broken motor mount lug. I was very glad I bought the set, because I used the crankshaft seals and oil filter mount gasket.

Mike is absolutely correct about the belly screen.
Either have one in place, or get one.

I didn't pull the motor all the way, but I did open it up. I was too antsy to mow with it that night that I didn't want to spend the time pulling the motor.
I did pull the fender deck and wash in there. There was a bunch of gunk in there.
BTW, the belly screen is in place.
Parts break down for a L120 deck shows grease zerts mine does not have. would like to install while I'm replacing bearings. where is the location that I should drill? Greg
Greg look at your new bearings. I suspect they will be sealed and not accept grease anyway. If you remove the seals I suspect you will have defeated the purpose of the seals and they will not last very long anyway. Roger
Greg - the spindles that came on mine did not have a grease zerk. The replacements from Deere do.
The lower new bearing only has seal on one side. Greg
What's a "zert"?

The patent for the Zerk grease fitting was granted to Oscar U. Zerk in January 1929, and the assignee was the Alemite Manufacturing Corporation. I don't think there was ever a Mr. Zert....
If there isn't one there now it probably won't help to put one in unless you use unshielded bearings.
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