[pa88316]

Im in way way over my head here, am trying to replace the leaking gasket on the crank. ive got the pto off, took off the five bolts that hold the crank bearing in place, pulled the crank bearing off, and now it appears that the gasket has fused itself in a way to both the block and the bearing plate. Ive tried a razor, but i saw it was leaving very small micro sized gouges, so i stopped with that, is there a solvent product out there that would be safe to use? Im struggling with a serious lack of experience, and dont wanna do anything stupid before i know for sure its a good idea..

(Message edited by treed on March 31, 2014)

 

[michael l.]

Sam, Brush the gasket with kerosene or carb cleaner. A piece of hardwood sanded like a chisel, and keep soaking the gasket. Some auto stores sell gasket removal solutions to spray onto gasket. Patience is a must.

 

[pa88316]

Thanks, im going to try to soak it overnight, its amazing how much it "welded" itself to both faces, mostly right where the bolts make it tightest. im honstely a little worried about the few small gouges i left, they are tiny, but i also dont wanna find out the hard way that it still is leaking. Im thinking of using a permatex type gasket maker in addition to the fiber gasket, just for extra insurance, but i dont know if thats really a great idea either.

 

[boomers_influence]

sam
you will need to determine the thickness
of the gskt that was installed from the factory.
over the years .009 .016 and .021 were installed.
.016 is the only one ava. now ( except from me )
you do not state your engine or the year of it.
if you have the .021 gskt you will need a .005 shim and the .016 gskt.
many of these leaks were caused by loose bolts
or lack of sealant on the bolts,or the rear seal itself. ( the output of the crank is the REAR of the engine.)
feel free to call if you need help
651 437 2826.
thank you. boomer( the used onan engine parts guy )

 

[pa88316]

Thanks boomer, i did get the gasket from you, i remember during our phone call we talked about the different gaskets, and i think you sent the one most likely to be correct. The tractor is an 88, with p218g-I/10462B ser#L873309970
As far as i can tell, the old gasket is .016, and this is the gasket i got from you....

 

[pa88316]

Boomer, that rear seal on the crank, can that be removed/ installed with a very perfectly sized large socket or piece of pipe(and a dead blow hammer)? I have changed dust seals on dirtbike wheel bearings before with that method, and had sucess, and this seal looks similar.( i dont have a press available at the moment) also, when i pulled the five bolts that hold the rear main bearing on, none of them showed signs of having thread sealer on them, which probably accelerated the leak. Thanks for the valued insight, to everyone.

 

[jd_hauler]

I use a 3" fine scotch brite pad on an air pistol. It cleans everything off and doesnt damage the aluminum. its a real time saver. then just rinse your parts off with brake cleaner.

 

[boomers_influence]

sam
when you install these seals you want as much
contact surface as possible on the face of the seal.
a socket as close as possible is WAY better
than a pipe.
thank you. boomer

 

[pa88316]

Thanks boomer, ill give you a call tonite about that seal...