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Discussion Starter #1
So I still haven't retrieved the valve lock that I dropped down the oil hole last weekend. I am optimistic that I can get it out with a magnet through the oil drain hole in the pan. I'm going to attempt that this weekend. So, three of the valves feel very good in their valve guides; There is no detectable side to side movement of the valve head. However the exhaust valve on the right side is not as nice. There is a small amount of detectable side to side movement of the valve head. If I replace the guide, the manual says I must have the valve/seat reground because the new guide may not be perfectly concentric. Although I have the ability to change the guide here in my shop, I do not have the equipment or knowledge to grind the valve/seat. So my two options are:
1. Install a new valve guide and lap the valve, or 2. just reassemble the valve in the old guide and live with the small amount of lateral play of the valve head. Which of these do you guys think is the lesser of the two evils?
 

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Acquiring and interpreting feel is impossible in print. Almost all engs run more guide play on exh than intake because they run hotter. Often int stem diameters are larger than exhs.. Try the int valve in exh guide for a possible different "feel". Feeling the play at valve head will be much more lateral measurable play than actually in the guide. Mic the full length and around valve stems. A bit of wear there ( a thou or more) will add 4-6 thou to your valve head feel. I recall a VW spec 60+ yrs ago of 1mm(.040") at valve head when lifted off seat a certain amount. A crude process but in the manual. Guide wear isn't always concentric. Exploring the whole guide w/ pilots or dial indicators will provide accurate data. Best I can add for DIY w/o tooling available. David
 

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I agree with David. Also, I would not lap the valve in any case, for reasons discussed in your other thread.

Regarding the fishing of the keeper -- keep in mind that the oil coating everything will cause quite a bit of adherence of the part to the walls of the chamber into which it fell due to surface tension of the oil film. This adherence will reduce substantially when the engine and the oil gets hot, so do not be tempted to believe that if you can't fish it out that it is safely away from engine internals as you go forward. If you do not fish it out successfully, you need to take the timing cover off and find it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but don't trash an otherwise salvageable engine.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I definitely will not run the engine until i retrieve the valve lock.
 
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