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1269 Views 18 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  woodpecker41
I've always had fits trying to do front to back leveling on my tractor with the 46" deck. I'd appreciate any suggestions...

On the front to back leveling, I've got one side that's pitched down in the front about 1/8 and the other side is up in the front about 1/4. Side to side is pretty much spot on at 3 1/2 each.

I've got the draft arms with the spring loaded pins you pull on the deck to release them. The side that's pitched up 1/4 actually has "slack" in the arm (it will rattle in the pin holes). So, short of putting down pressure on that side of the deck with the draft arm, I'm thinking I can't get it to the appropriate downward pitch by just hanging. Is there something I'm missing here, or maybe I'm just looking at a sprung frame/deck?

Thanks in advance!
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You might have a bent deck. Do you have a collection system on the tractor? If so it might be the weight of the collector on the outlet side of the deck that is making it lean. To check if the deck is flat take the deck off. Turn it upside down and see if the blade tips are even with each other. If they are not you need to straighten the deck even if that is not your one side lower than the other problem. Roger
Thanks! No collection system on the tractor. I just had the deck off to replace some bearings and when I reinstalled the spindles/blades everything looked even. But that was just a quick assessment by eyeball, I can take it off and actually use a straight edge to make sure. I guess an 1/8 here and there adds up over 3 blades.

The interesting thing is that the side that is pitched up (higher than the other in the front) actually needs the gauge wheels set higher to get the 1/4 clearance. I'm running in the 3 inch hole on three of the wheels, and the 2 1/2 hole on that one. That might support the bent deck theory.

I'll pull it off and make sure the spindles are seated right. They have about 4 hours of running on them now, since I re-installed them. Blades are brand new, and haven't hit anything to cause a bend.
It might also be the one or both of the lift arms on the rocker shaft is bent or the welds broken so it is not lifting lowering the deck evenly. Roger
I'm going to buy some paint later for my tractor. I was considering using the tractor implement paint TSC sells, it is Majic brand. They have a matte black, jd green, and "new" jd yellow. Has anyone used these? How well do they match? And is the Matte black the color that would closely match the original black that's on the tractor? It's a 1975 210.
also, would a primer be necessary with this paint? All parts are sandblasted before paint.
Everything I paint gets blasted and primed with UPOL acid etch primer. UPOL comes I spray cans and quarts. I have some of the tractor supply paint but haven't used it.
The commonly available Krylon High Heat 1618 is exact match to the john deere semi gloss "BLITZ"

You can locate Krylon about anywhere. Or just yes the deere paint "BLITZ" for all your black paint neds. I have used both and find I'd rather buy Krylon at Walmart over the $ of deere blitz.

I painted one of my 212 with the TSC green and yellow. I thought it was fine. I also thought the green was more of that OLD shade used on the two cylinder tractors etc. Not a problem for me, but others will want the exact shade in which you'd want to use the deere paint.

A friend took his tractor to a BODY SHOP. They would NOT use the deere paint like he wanted and it is blue. Seriously . BLUE. if you look at it out in the driveway it looks perfect. But park it next to another of his tractors and the green is blue. They would only use their Martin Senour paint and they mixed it themselves.

If you only have one tractor, paint it any shade you want. I Have a 212 with three different shades of green. Who cares. It is mine and I like it. The snow don't care either; it gets blown over into my neighbors lawn regardless............
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Curtis, you may want to do a search using "TSC paint" as the search option and put is 600 days for how far back to search. There is some discussion about the Majic brand and others. I think the jury is still out on color match for that brand.
JD seldom used primer under their factory paint jobs, but they were working with brand new metal. No dings or rust pits to worry about. I prefer to get primer on anything that's been sand blasted the same day it comes back from the blaster. I have had surface rust show on the trip home.

I you are new to JD paint colors, there were two different shades of the green paint and as far as I know, only one standard yellow. "Classic" JD green was used on the two cylinder farm tractors and equipment, and I wouldn't rule out some updates along the line for that color. "AG&CE" has been the factory green for the L&G equipment and later farm equipment. Your choice.

I think most of us here like the JD "Blitz Black" as a match for L&G black parts.

If you use something other than the JD branded paint, how about letting us know later what you used, if you are satisfied with color matches, and eventually what you find on durability.

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Which\whatever paint you decide to use - always best to start out with a clean, prepped, ready surface
& use a compatible primer coat (or 2). Bobo
OK , Curtis DID ask about paint AND primer so I think this is ok to ask : What is the main reason to use primer ? I have a friend who paints for me at a reasonable cost & I know little about the basics .
I buy my paint from the dealership they also sell the primer
I decided it would be best, (and only cost about $10 more) to just buy my paint at the dealer. They're luckily just about 7 minutes up the street. Now I have a new problem... I borrowed a sandblaster from a buddy at work, it's a 50lb pressure pot from TSC. I can NOT get it to work right. The best I had it working i sandblasted ONE rear wheel, it used 50lbs of sand. It's clean, it's dry, i have an air dryer, the sand was new and dry. I tore all the fittings apart and noticed the manifold at the bottom where the sand and air mix, the outlet to the big sand hose was a little smaller than the rest, so i drilled it out to match (ported it) so it flows good. It worked better, but to get a flow of sand the bottom valve had to be open so far I used 50lbs in a few minutes. Im using black beauty sand from TSC, the finest they sell. I also installed a better drain on my compressor (60 gal kobalt from Lowes) so i can leave it a tiny tiny bit cracked while blasting to keep any excess water in the tank from building up. I'm about to give up and just clean it and slap paint on it. Which would be terrible since i planned on this tractor looking new, but i've wasted about 4 days messing with a sand blaster and building a plastic walled blasting room in my garage... Frustrating.
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Dave, primer is used to adhere to the metal and give the paint a better surface to adhere too. I've read that JD didn't use primer when they painted our tractor, but that's just something I've read and may or may not be true.
I have one of the HF 40lb pressure blaster and it is basically a piece of junk. Hardened valve wore out right away, hose wore thru at the curve on the bottom. If you don't close the valve on the bottom when filling it the hose fills with sand and sort of just runs out of the tip when pressurized. I built a large wood blast cabinet with a siphon unit. The sand is wore out after about 4 times thru the gun.
Edward - I have the same HF 40# pressure blasting pot. I've used it quite a bit. Probably 1500# of media put through it. I did replace the blast gun because it came with 3-4 new nozzles that I needed. The hoses are fine as best I can tell. The attached water separator had something happen to it, I forget what but I have a separate coalescing air filter/regulator that keeps all moisture out of the air.

For the price paid I'm satisfied. I just wish I had a blast cabinet so I could reuse my sand. I get 100# bags of crushed quartz from a local cement contractor supply shop for $10. I have no room in my shop for a cabinet.
I have a blast cabinet and have used it alot. Probably have put every piece of two antique JD two cylinders through it that would fit in it. I use the glass media in it. Most pieces of lawnmowers will fit in mine except for frame and fender deck. I had local guy do them for me pretty cheaply. He will wait till he gets several jobs to do at once to save on his compressor and material. Priming was necessary after that though due to the pitting from the courser material they use. I prefer the deere paint because the Majic paint will have a blue hue to it as it fades. The Deere yellow will whiten over time. I have been clear coating my yellow stuff to try to prevent some of this from happening.
I've given up on the HF pressure pot and switched to a cheap $15 gravity feed gun. It seriously works 100 times better, until it got wet. So i've since went and bought another 50' air hose, a bigger air/water filter, and then a smaller air water filter. Going to run: compressor to 50' air hose to big filter to 50' air hose, to small filter to gun. Hopefully that works! Three days and one rim sand blasted, 75lbs of media used... About to give up if this doesnt work!
Curtis that is why I use someone local to sand blast. He charges less to do it than I can do it myself. The only thing I sand blast myself is toy tractors and car. I have a small cabinet I built myself that recycles the real sand blast media I use. Real media works much better than sand is less hard on your lungs. Roger
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