What is the part number for the main belt that drives the mower deck?
also need the part number for the starter improvement relay. I heard there are two relays available to further prevent overcharging resulting in burned wires.
I used a ****ty crimp tool and it crushed the connectors. What is the best style crimper to use?
There is no "grade 10" in the SAE bolt grade system. Some metric bolts are CLASS 10.9 per the folllowing specifications:
Class 10.9:
Head Marking: 10.9
Material: Alloy steel, quenched and tempered
Size Range: 5-mm to 100-mm
Proof Load (MPa): 830
Min. Yield Strength (MPa): 940
Min. Tensile Strength (MPa): 1040
Did you mean class 10.9??? The Deere part is a CH19101 BOLT which is an M8 x 45 metric bolt and most likely is a class 10.9... How were the bolt heads marked on the bolts you removed??
Note: a metric class 10.9 is roughly equivalent to the strength of a Class 8 SAE bolt...
There is no "grade 10" in the SAE bolt grade system. Some metric bolts are CLASS 10.9 per the folllowing specifications:
Class 10.9:
Head Marking: 10.9
Material: Alloy steel, quenched and tempered
Size Range: 5-mm to 100-mm
Proof Load (MPa): 830
Min. Yield Strength (MPa): 940
Min. Tensile Strength (MPa): 1040
Did you mean class 10.9??? The Deere part is a CH19101 BOLT which is an M8 x 45 metric bolt and most likely is a class 10.9... How were the bolt heads marked on the bolts you removed??
Note: a metric class 10.9 is roughly equivalent to the strength of a Class 8 SAE bolt...
I’m not sure how the old bolts were marked I will look. I know for sure the new bolts are 10. Something but I can’t see the heads because everything is back together.
The tool is very connector type specific -- and the purpose of the ratcheting tool is to compel you to have a complete stroke to make the recommended crimp - so not sure what you mean by not "going full throttle.". If your terminals are bare (without sleeves) then a different tool is required. Some tools have interchangeable dies so you can cover a wider range of connector pins/terminals with a single tool body.
The tool I showed above is suitable for these typical terminals with insulating sleeves:
Note that the color of the sleeve indicates which die section is used for that particular crimp.
The tool is very connector type specific -- and the purpose of the ratcheting tool is to compel you to have a complete stroke to make the recommended crimp - so not sure what you mean by not "going full throttle.". If your terminals are bare (without sleeves) then a different tool is required. Some tools have interchangeable dies so you can cover a wider range of connector pins/terminals with a single tool body.
The tool I showed above is suitable for these typical terminals with insulating sleeves: View attachment 286128
Note that the color of the sleeve indicates which die section is used for that particular crimp.
Your crimping tool is working just the way it is designed to do -- you have to complete a full crimping stroke with this type of ratcheting tool. If you don't get the crimp quality you believe you want/need then perhaps you don't have the correct tool for the terminal type you are using.
Here is an inexpensive imported set with interchangeable dies that covers quite a few styles of insulated and un-insulated terminals and even includes a wire stripper. I am unsure about the quality, but for the occasional hobby use it should suffice... link is here:
The wire crimper features convenience, efficiency and harmlessness to the cable cores. 1 x Wire Crimper. 4 products in 1 bag is for your convenience. Non-insulated Open Barrel Connector 26-16 AWG (0.14-1.5mm²);.
A proper ratchet tool crimp makes a gas-tight connection between the wire and the barrel of the connector, so no other prep is needed.
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