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1979 John Deere 214, 1972 140 h1
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Waiting on the pump to get exact measurements but I have a question on mounting. I can build a bracket and tie it into the frame to direct drive the pump. I'm thinking that either building a cage or trying to find one that will bolt directly to the engine. I have removed the electric pto so I have four centered bolts to work with. I'm thinking that a pump cage mounted directly to the engine is the best way to go. Any thoughts?
 

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1979 John Deere 214, 1972 140 h1
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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Looks like a pump cage would have to be fabricated but it shouldn't be too much trouble. The plan would be to make 2 - 1/4" plates similar to the picture. Using 4 sticks of all thread I would mount a plate to the engine. Then use all thread to line the front plate up. I can move the front plate in or out on the threads to get everything lined up and the distance correct. Once everything is set I would jam nut it all in place, remove and weld straps between the plates to build the cage. I could even measure the distance between the plates once it is set up, cut some pipe with 3/8" diameter to length, slide over the bolts and weld in place to build the cage. Sound reasonable? I'm spitballing in my head so hopefully that doesn't sound too convoluted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I think I made it harder than it needs to be. I didn't see the other holes that were plugged with dirt. Should have cleaned it off better when I was measuring. Looks like a standard 3-5/8" mount pattern pump cage will bolt up. Now just need the pump and Lovejoy couplers to get the right length cage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Since the major hydraulic parts are scattered throughout the thread I figured I'd compile it all here. The $ just keep adding up😭. In a nutshell it seems that everything has averaged around $100 per component.
Bucket cylinder Surplus Center: $69
Boom cylinder, eBay: $134
Control, Amazon: $114
Pump cage, surplus Center: $66
Pump, Amazon: $94
Lovejoy couplers,spiders etc: $40

I have attached screenshots of the item in case folks need part numbers. Next plan is to run 3/8" hard lines from the controller to the front of the tractor for easy removal. I plan to use the compression/bite style fittings.
 

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1979 John Deere 214, 1972 140 h1
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
It's been awhile since I bought the steel for this project but it was around $500. I've probably got another $150 in consumables such as cut off wheels, CO2, tips, etc. Just a wild guess but by the time I get hard line, hoses and fittings I'll be in the neighborhood of $1500. So the estimate from Paul at PF Engineering was pretty darn close. I'll also say that the $60 I paid for the drawings was money well spent. I can imagine the wasted steel or overpurchase of materials had I tried to conquer this blindly.
 

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Would that pump be a suitable replacement for the pump on my #44 loader? I haven't actually established its condition yet but if I need one, I'd like an idea of what would work, ideally as a direct replacement but if I have to fabricate I will do so
 

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Hydraulic gear pump is still available from Parker.

Parker ... D17AA2A ... $343.47
3.1 GPM, /8-14 UNF-2B SAE Inlet Size,
Displacement 6.62 cc/rev,
CW rotation.
2,500 RPM,
1/2" Shaft Diam,
SAE AA Mount,
Hydraulic Gear Pump
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09630203?orderedAs=D17AA2A&pxno=1806299&refnum=1806299&rItem=09630203
Pump can be ordered from other suppliers for less $.

I had a model 44 loader with this pump and it functioned very well except when parked the bucket needs to be at correct park position or the hydraulic system will push oil past the bucket cylinder guide seals. Bottom of bucket flat on floor is not correct park position.

Surplus Center ... 0.48 Cu In Casappa PLP10.8 Hyd Pump | Gear Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com ... this after market pump has similar specifications.
 

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re & neil, The pump rw pictured should be fine for a FEL. Flow rate is a little high, but engine can be run at lower rpm if loader operates too quickly. However, I do see 2 possible issues and manufacturer would need to be contacted to verify.
1. Can pump be operated in a vertical position... some can, some can't!
2. Can pump be pulley driven.... some pumps are designed to be driven by a coupling only and the side loading from a pulley drive can destroy the pump.

neil, Unsure of pump mount & drive type on your loader, but the above questions could be applicable. Bob
 

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I just looked at the pump I recommended above. It has a 9T splined input shaft. Don't think that is what you want. Surplus center should have similar pump with keyed input shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The pump I linked above is direct drive only. Someone mentioned ability to operate vertically. It doesn't mention anything. Isn't a model 44 horizontal and belt driven? The pump is a 3-6gm. At 1800 rpms I should be in the 3-ish range and 4 at 2500.
 

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Hydraulic gear pump is still available from Parker.

Parker ... D17AA2A ... $343.47
3.1 GPM, /8-14 UNF-2B SAE Inlet Size,
Displacement 6.62 cc/rev,
CW rotation.
2,500 RPM,
1/2" Shaft Diam,
SAE AA Mount,
Hydraulic Gear Pump
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/d...2A&pxno=1806299&refnum=1806299&rItem=09630203
Pump can be ordered from other suppliers for less $.

I had a model 44 loader with this pump and it functioned very well except when parked the bucket needs to be at correct park position or the hydraulic system will push oil past the bucket cylinder guide seals. Bottom of bucket flat on floor is not correct park position.

Surplus Center ... 0.48 Cu In Casappa PLP10.8 Hyd Pump | Gear Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com ... this after market pump has similar specifications.
What is the correct park position? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Word of caution on the pump I linked above. You might have to notch the center brace of the main frame or when building move it up 1/2" . I wanted the suction line on the right side as I'm sitting on the tractor. That would allow me to use the right post for suction and breather and the left post for return. Should make for a cleaner install and less hoses crossing each other. As it stands the "hump" won't clear the cross brace and needs to be ran with the hump side down or notch a 1/2" out of the frame. I will likely notch the frame. I drilled holes on the uprights so the bumper can act as a cross tube between the uprights. I figure with suction on one post and return on the other I'd get the best circulation of fluid since I'm only going to have a few gallons.
 

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1979 John Deere 214, 1972 140 h1
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Any thoughts on a fuel filler extension for a 140? I had the hood, fuel tank and battery pulled while building and did not realize that I can't open the hood all the way unless I unpin the man frame. Not a huge deal for the most part but I hate to do it every time I need fuel. I was even thinking of something like this if I can find one large enough to get my hand into and loosen the fuel cap without raising the hood.
 

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Maybe thinking along the lines of your typical car/truck gas filler lid that you have to flip up to get at the actual gas tank cover??
 

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Maybe thinking along the lines of your typical car/truck gas filler lid that you have to flip up to get at the actual gas tank cover??
i have one of those lids on the hood of my compact tractor (1986 ford 1110), but i actually designed the pin-on loader so the hood can be lifted if you 1- detach the diagonal braces at the top mount, then 2- pull the two top spring pin mounts then 3- when you boom up the towers will lean forward and allow you to open the hood fully.
to lean the towers back and reset the spring pins, it's easiest to put the boom cylinder into float mode and move the tractor forward until the towers lean back into place.

the hole through the hood method probably will take less time refueling in the long run, but there is the other option if you want to avoid cutting the hood.
 

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Is it conceivable to mount the hood with pins so you could pull the pins and lift the entire hood off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Great suggestions. Once I get everything operational I'll try the unpinning of the frame and see how I like it. The fuel door and pin idea are great as well. Might have to explore those some more.
 
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