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Jeff, Nicely rigged 318 you have there :) I will be building one soon. What do you use the rear 2000 PTO for? I noticed both switches on the dash as well as the mud putty knife lol. Those rear tires look pretty aggressive. What kind are they, what size and do you ever have to lock the rears while pulling that twin plow. Oh yeah H3 would come in very handy with that rear hydro operated upper 3pt arm. Looks like a lean mean working machine.
Thank you.

I don’t currently have anything to use the rear pto.

The rear tires are Maxxis Power Lug in 26-12-12 size on 10.5” wide wheels with WW fluid (13 gallons each). The front are V61 on 400 series wheels 18-8.5-8.

I don’t need to lock the rear diff often, if I do, it is muddy/ greasy in that spot or a large root. The 318 with the trailer plow and me on the seat is 2230 lbs.

When I first put the rear hydraulic remotes on, it had a “T” off the front remotes, then I found a 54C blade to use in winter with the 49 snow thrower and needed a 3rd circuit. The rear remotes are now on the 3rd circuit. I use the rear remotes for the hydraulic top link, trailer plow, and 54C center blade.

Pictured is last year’s winter setup, will be the same this year. I go over a variety of surfaces, the skid shoes on the 49 are set for gravel/grass and then the 54C will catch the rest when on pavement. I have full independent control of all functions of the 49 and 54C.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Riding mower Snow
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Thank you.

I don’t currently have anything to use the rear pto.

The rear tires are Maxxis Power Lug in 26-12-12 size on 10.5” wide wheels with WW fluid (13 gallons each). The front are V61 on 400 series wheels 18-8.5-8.

I don’t need to lock the rear diff often, if I do, it is muddy/ greasy in that spot or a large root. The 318 with the trailer plow and me on the seat is 2230 lbs.

When I first put the rear hydraulic remotes on, it had a “T” off the front remotes, then I found a 54C blade to use in winter with the 49 snow thrower and needed a 3rd circuit. The rear remotes are now on the 3rd circuit. I use the rear remotes for the hydraulic top link, trailer plow, and 54C center blade.

Pictured is last year’s winter setup, will be the same this year. I go over a variety of surfaces, the skid shoes on the 49 are set for gravel/grass and then the 54C will catch the rest when on pavement. I have full independent control of all functions of the 49 and 54C.
View attachment 273081
That’s a sweet snow plowing setup👍 I like the front and back wheel weights
 

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That is a lot of weight on just the wheels alone (y) Thanks for sharing :)
 
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So how does that rear PTO driven tiller compare to the hydro driven 30 & 42 tillers?

Looks like some nice fertile loamy gardening soil. I'm wishing I had soil like that. All dark clay at my place. Not more that 5 miles in any direction are orchards for cherries, walnuts, almonds, peaches, blue berries etc.
 

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Thanks guys! I got lucky. The tractor, loader, pto,everything is in great shape. It’s been stored inside for its 35 years I’m guessing minus the 805 hours. The powder coat is in great shape. This was my first time using a gt tiller so I can’t compare. Is was quick though compared to my walk behind. The pto shaft did pop out once as the locking collar was not positively locked. After I figured it out I wondered if that contributed to the sale. The guy I got it from had it only a year and had plenty of other, newer jd’s in his collection. I did a couple hours of maintenance to it and will go through all fluids soon. So far very impressed with it. I’m going to do the unistrut seat bracket conversion for some more legroom asap. All in all though it’s a dream machine 👍🏻👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Thanks guys! I got lucky. The tractor, loader, pto,everything is in great shape. It’s been stored inside for its 35 years I’m guessing minus the 805 hours. The powder coat is in great shape. This was my first time using a gt tiller so I can’t compare. Is was quick though compared to my walk behind. The pto shaft did pop out once as the locking collar was not positively locked. After I figured it out I wondered if that contributed to the sale. The guy I got it from had it only a year and had plenty of other, newer jd’s in his collection. I did a couple hours of maintenance to it and will go through all fluids soon. So far very impressed with it. I’m going to do the unistrut seat bracket conversion for some more legroom asap. All in all though it’s a dream machine 👍🏻👍🏻
Yeah that’s even with my 430, the leg room isn’t very much!
 
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So how does that rear PTO driven tiller compare to the hydro driven 30 & 42 tillers?

Looks like some nice fertile loamy gardening soil. I'm wishing I had soil like that. All dark clay at my place. Not more that 5 miles in any direction are orchards for cherries, walnuts, almonds, peaches, blue berries etc.
Your not that far from the wine groves either.
 

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@Templeton I can see how the mechanical PTO driven tiller might be the bees knees as far as controlling the speed of the tines. Well within reason anyway. Want them to go slow lower the RPM’s and faster increase the RPM’s

@joe Yeah about 10 miles or so north up Hwy 99 and you see Lodi grape vineyards on both sides of the Hwy as far as the eye can see.
 
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@Templeton I can see how the mechanical PTO driven tiller might be the bees knees as far as controlling the speed of the tines. Well within reason anyway. Want them to go slow lower the RPM’s and faster increase the RPM’s
I had a tiller on a JD 200 and it was a reverse till. It pull backwards and man that thing was great. I put a tiller on my 300 and it tills front. Since I don't have working brakes it's a pain to keep at a steady speed because it pushes the tractor.
 

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Thank you Mopar I had not thought about that but that is how I have the 30 hydro set up on the 316 at the moment.
 
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Is the hydro’s braking force not enough?
 

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Making a second pass over tilled ground makes the brakes (either hydro retardation or the actual foot brakes) less efficient against being pushed around by the tiller engaging the ground -- especially if you encounter a root unexpectedly.

Fortunately, the 30 hydraulic tiller allows for mounting for either forward or reverse rotation of the tines, so you get your choice. Here is a picture of a section of my tilling that makes me not trust "just" brakes or hydro retarding -- that soil is really loose already.
Plant Tree Road surface Asphalt Land lot


Chuck
 

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Is the hydro’s braking force not enough?
Don't get me wrong DEERE317 I figured out how to control it, but the reverse drive was so much nicer. Especially with the gear drive holding you back. I only have one gear drive GT anymore and it's a parts tractor. I have gone hydro. BUT I would love to be able to reverse the tiller on my 300.
I will tell you that little 8HP Kohler in that 200 worked it's rear off running that tiller. But man it did a great job. I'm kind of sorry I traded it. BUT I got $500 for it and the tiller towards my 93 Cummins so................. 8 years later I'm still using the Cummins to make money.
 

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Looks like some nice fertile loamy gardening soil.
It sure is. It’s been farmed for 250 years. The downside is the weeds have had the same time to develop super strength strains and are 5’ in no time. Im going to use double plastic next year and leave enough space between the rows to cultivate and till. I have a really worn out 31 tiller that I’ll put on 200 series and try that. Along with the weeds are supernatural bugs and stuff. Maybe put up some bird houses so the birds eat the bugs, idk.
 

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I had a tiller on a JD 200 and it was a reverse till. It pull backwards and man that thing was great. I put a tiller on my 300 and it tills front. Since I don't have working brakes it's a pain to keep at a steady speed because it pushes the tractor.
Technically the 31 tiller is suppose to spin in the same direction as the 33. The drive belt from the mule drive to the tiller should have a flip. They run forward rotation to "climb" over rocks and obstructions.
 
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