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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I had seen something about this conversion in an old thread, but couldn't find anything using the search. Does anyone remember that, or have any opinions on such a conversion?
 

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Here's the update: I got the Predator in the other day, set the pulleys on the shaft and dropped it in place. It appeared that if I raised it up a little, I wouldn't need to grind any clearance so I made a 3/8" thick aluminum plate with the mounting pattern, transferred the holes and set the engine in and bolted it down. I was using a 2" longer than stock belt on the Carroll Stream diesel that I took out, so I kept it on there and it appears to be fine.

Today I put my mower deck on and found that the stock 84" drive belt is short. That's exactly what I expected. The deck belt is 87", and I had an extra one hanging from a nail so I stuck it on there and it fits very well. Mowed my yard this afternoon and so far I am very happy with it. Some of the grass was extra thick, and the engine didn't mind it one bit.

The one caveat to this project is that I am going to need to get really creative if I want to put a hood and front grill on this tractor. I'm a function over form guy, but I have a 4' brake and know how to use it, so maybe this fall. For now I'm satisfied that I have all the power I could want and it's much quieter. It's a sweet little engine. Starts right up and doesn't seem hard on fuel at all. It must be set quite lean because it wants a little choke even if it's warmed up.
 

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I have no problems with installing engines in these tractors that were not designed to be there but when you start butchering these tractors to install covers is where I draw the line. Those tractors belong on Facebook groups. Oh wait, we are Facebook. There is no longer pride in our group or what we do.
 

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This site originated and was developed for John Deere Garden tractor owners and mechanics. IMO the majority of us want pure Deere or appear to be Deere units. If you have to coble/hack hood, grille, or covers it soils the Deere reputation and does not belong on this site. Not saying that what you have done is objectionable to me but you are not done yet.
 
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I posted this update in the hopes that it would help someone attempting a similar project. I get a great deal of satisfaction from thinking outside the box, and I don't take kindly to posers who try to tell me what's right and what's not right. GFY
 

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Agree with Roger. Others on here have modified older JDs to suit their needs, from narrow fronts, installing diesels, stacks, etc. Would love to see some pictures, especially the drive belts to work with variator which is usually a problem..
 
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Agree with Roger. Others on here have modified older JDs to suit their needs, from narrow fronts, installing diesels, stacks, etc. Would love to see some pictures, especially the drive belts to work with variator which is usually a problem..
Sorry, I haven't taken any pictures yet or learned how to post them. I've read here and in other places about how problematic the drive belt system can be, and frankly it's just not true. I'm from a drag racing background and the variator isn't that much different from a junior dragster clutch with the addition of the clutch pedal that allows you to slack the primary belt anytime you want.

People have talked about complicated geometry, but the only geometry you need to know is that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. When I first got the Carroll Stream in, I cut a stock 40" belt, wrapped it around the sheaves and measured the gap to see how much longer the new belt would need to be. In that case it was 2", so I bought a 42" and it worked perfect.

Of course it's also important to readjust the variator after any belt change, and the instructions in the service manual cover it well. I'll add that the brake band and clutch over-ride also must be set correctly. The service manual contains a troubleshooting guide in the power train section that covers the symptoms that will be experienced if the belt length is not correct. I've played with a Cub Cadet and John Deere is head and shoulders above that for engine swaps.
 

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I am not offended by what you have done. But as you rebuild the hood, I (personally) would try to keep it looking like a 110.
 
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I like that you have given new life to an old tractor. I will be doing the same with a 214. Did you reuse the factory motor mount plate? Do 110 have the motor mount plate with rubber vibration isolators? My 214 has it and I am debating removing the rubber mounts as they are shot and need to be replaced. All new tractors hard mount the engines to the frame. Wondering if you did this with yours?
 

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Perfect is the enemy of good. Of course the best is to keep it stock and find a treasure box at the end of a rainbow to keep it running. But let's get real... A running tractor is better than one that isn't.

It's your tractor do as you see fit!

:)
 

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I like that you have given new life to an old tractor. I will be doing the same with a 214. Did you reuse the factory motor mount plate? Do 110 have the motor mount plate with rubber vibration isolators? My 214 has it and I am debating removing the rubber mounts as they are shot and need to be replaced. All new tractors hard mount the engines to the frame. Wondering if you did this with yours?
110's mount directly to the steel plate between the frame rails. It's a solid mount. Good luck with your 214.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Perfect is the enemy of good. Of course the best is to keep it stock and find a treasure box at the end of a rainbow to keep it running. But let's get real... A running tractor is better than one that isn't.

It's your tractor do as you see fit!

:)
Agreed. I'm clearly going to struggle with making the front grill area look good, but this thing has already showed itself to be a real workhorse. Going from 8 to 13 horsepower gave it a real shot in the arm, and the ohv design is much quieter and more efficient. It also comes with a low oil shutdown.
 
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