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I've just gotten into the JD craze and I have much to learn...
Questions I have are many. lets start w/ this one...
I have the two spool hydraulic arm(s). The inside arm will not move. Is this a problem with the cylinder sleeve? Is there a way to relieve the pressure and get this to move? Or do I need to remove the part and get a rebuilt or would it be cheaper to buy used? HELP I bought this more for my son...maybe he can make a few bucks this winter...if school ever closes?
 

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John,
Welcome to WFM. Unfortunately you're in the wrong section - this being the Late Model section which is for tractors and equipment built AFTER 1992. You need to be in the Vintage Forum or the Restoration and Repair section for the older stuff. You will also find you get better and more responses there.
 

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If you are going to do one do both and get the belts from JD. Not hard to do but it will take a bit of time if it is your first time. Usually for me it is less than one hour to replace both belts. There is a bit of difference in time depending if you have a manual or electric PTO. If you search on line I suspect you will find places to tell you how to do it. Roger
 

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Also if you have any attachments on the tractor or not,Roger is right though,change both belts and use JD belts!
 

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Thanks everyone, I'm getting JD belts today. The 112 is hydraulic. The plow is on, but that's easy to remove. I'm changing b/c the variator doesn't work after adjusting it like the manual explains. The tractor moves, (slowly), but like it's stuck in position 1. No matter what position, (1 thru 5)/7). I'm wondering, after reading the previous variator post, if there's something else going on. Like the clutch, (AM30671 not available anymore), or the 2 bearings M74707 and/or AM30172??
 

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I only know of one bearing. Inside the hub. That has nothing to do with the function. The center hub and center sheave is available. Center sheave has a bushing.......if not from Deere then on ebay. But quite sure Deere still prices them, so that tells me they are.
 

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If the bearing needs replacement, it lets you know with a distinctive squeal. It is more likely the center sheave is stuck on the hub and won't slide from side to side or the whole variator is stuck and can't swing to take up slack.
 

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Well, I replaced the primary belt (JD of course). Also was told by JD mechanic to use carb cleaner on variator sheave and 2 drops of oil, which I did. The sheave is working OK, not sticking at all. Still no luck. Variator lever 1-7/1-5 doesn't work.
After replacing primary belt and re-ajusting clutch and variator b\c of new belt, the variator now works in position 1 thru 3. I will replace secondary belt and hope all 5 positions will work. I will update after secondary is replaced.
 

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Well, I replaced the secondary belt in the 112H a few days ago. The old one didn't seem that bad. I re-adjusted clutch for not less than 3\4 inch and 7 to 8 inch on the rise. The rise was 8-1\2 in so I turn the variator clutch counterclockwise 10 turns. The clutch pedal rose to 9-1\2 inch. Manual said to turn CCW to bring pedal back to less than 8 inches. What gives?? I ended up turning the variator clutch clockwise 20 turns to make the 7 to 8 inch range. Variator still only works in the 1 to 3 position. I give up. I guess I try changing the variator sheaves, although it works good and doesn't stick. Out of options. Any help out there??
 

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I have said it and said it. If the center sheave is free...... that, in no way, indicates that the variator will operate.

I have argued this with folks on ebay as they ALL claim that they have a good known operational variator clutch assy because the center sheave is free on the hub.

Horse pucky. It means only one thing; The internal bushing is worn out.
 

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Scott, You might be right. The center sheave is free and moves side to side with no problem. It always was free. I have watched it as I change lever positions. It moves left to right after changing the 2 JD belts. I only get position 1 thru 3 to work OK. At 4 and 5 , I get no variator pressure on it. I have re-adjusted the clutch pedal according to the JD service manuals. The center sheave doesn't seem to be sticking. It moves very freely. I cleaned with carb cleaner as instructed by an old JD 112 mechanic. He said clean with carb cleaner only and just 2 drops of oil, no more than that. Scott, as we move through this, we just might prove what the real problem is. It's a JD 112h 1969.
 

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I am not 100% you adjusted correctly.You probably did. I just don't follow the 8" 7" 7.5" rule.

Nor the "turning the variator clutch CW and CCW.

What is that????? I have had a 112 and now a pair of 212's. I know nothing of that which you speak of.

I adjust per the manual. Set in notch 5. adjust the play via the bolt. The clutch peddle should JUMP up from the clutched position.

Unless you have something I haven't seen.....and doubt you do, I would adjust by looking at a few youtube videos for the 112 or maybe the 212's....

I don't know.....I have never had to turn the variator to adjust it on a 112 or 212
 

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With the panel removed from the side you can look in there and see the variator. It only has to be running, trans in Neutral. The variator will operate. If it is operational. You can have somebody work the clutch, but you can simply stand there or kneel, and move the variator speed control.
 

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Gene, are you working on the 68 or 69 112 single pedal clutch/brake type tractor? If so, does the manual instruct you to disconnect the brake rod before adjusting the brake over ride part of the clutch to get the proper pedal height?

I don't have my Sq. Fender manual handy, but I'm sure the Round fender models require that. That part of the adjustment is to let the belt tension be in a neutral or slipping position just before the brake is applied. Makes shifting a little easier. Of course you have to let up on the brake slightly to allow that to happen, and doesn't work well if you are not on flat ground when stopped.

Anyhow, there is a possibility there is binding in the variator pivot. There is a hardened bushing in the bore of the arm that can be rusted to the arm. This makes the whole thing try to rotate around the attaching bolt.

I'll try to come up with a drawing to better describe this thing. Everything in this system must be in good condition for the variator to work properly. Weak springs, worn belts and sheaves, badly worn linkages, and misadjustments all add up to one that just doesn't follow the rule book.

tommyhawk
 

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Here's the sketch of the parts for a '68 112.
#5 is the bushing
#4 is the bolt
#6 grease fitting
#7 are O-rings

If all the normal adjustments fail, you can try loosening #4 bolt a turn or so. Do the belt adjustment again and if you now get all 5 notches working, the whole thing normally has to be removed so the bushing (NLA at JD) can be removed, freed up, and greased. If the arm has worn into the mounting part of the frame, it will still bind when the bolt is tight.
There are some archived threads covering this too. Just let us know if you make progress with any of these suggestions.




tommyhawk
 

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I have this diagram also, thanks. My next steps are to look at parts 4,5,7 and then 15 and 16. Part 13 is not available anymore. This has turned into a project that I must solve. The one post I have read about this finally fixed the same problem I'm having by replacement of the complete variator.
 

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Gene,
I had the same issue as you. It ended up that bolt (4) & bushing (5) were seized together. I was able to get that out and press out the bolt. Cleaned everything up good & applied some grease when putting back together & made sure grease fitting (6) was clean and pumped it full of grease.
The fitting is in a hard to reach area and not readily noticeable. PO of my 110 must have never greased it.
Once it was back together & adjustment made to variator, the tractor ran fine. I make sure to pump some grease in there every spring & fall.
John
 
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