[hel2002002yahoocom]

Hi Folks,
I'm replacing my PTO clutch and when adjusting the new (used) one gap to 0.018" the clutch pulley feels a little tight when I try to turn it by hand, it's like some friction going on, is that normal?

Thanks,
Henry.

 

[tommyhawk]

That would be normal on most of the electric clutches, Henry, including your 318. When disengaged and no belt on the clutch, the pulley will not freewheel when the air gap is set correctly. I understand some of the early types on 140's did not work this way. There may be others.

tommyhawk

 

[hel2002002yahoocom]

That's good to know, thank you Tommyhawk.

 

[knottyrope]

its a safety feature to stop the implement quicker

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Henry -

It's been called the Blade Brake Clutch (BBC) since around late seventy's / early eighties . All lawn and garden tractors had to have the extra provision built in it to meet safety standards for blades to stop within 3 seconds or so .

Dave

 

[hel2002002yahoocom]

Hi Folks,
Well I went out and cut some grass in the afternoon it was a little wet since it had rained in the morning here in central NJ, and at first everything looked fine but then 10 minutes later I saw smoke coming of the clutch area ... I quickly disengaged it and drove it back to the garage, smoke still coming out. I let it cool off and re-measured the gap and it'd changed a little ... measured the resistance on the coil to about 4.3 ohms, tried to engage it without running the engine but I did not hear the click, I measured the voltage and it was about 11.9 volts, (should it be good enough?), anyway this morning I did it again and this time I heard the click, measured the coil again and it was about 3.6 ohms, the gap was ~0.018" like I set it before ...
I'm not sure what to do now, I don't want to risk another coil ...is it getting too hot and started to burn up?
My next move would be to take the belt and let it run without it???
This thing is driving me crazy ....
Thanks,
Henry.

 

[craft57]

Henry : Just checking but When you adjusted the clutch YOU DID check it in ALL THREE locations ??? ….. I had to go around 2-3 times till i got it perfectly equal on all spots …… I also noticed that these clutch's (looking thru the slots) that it doesn't run perfectly true …. kind of has a small wobble to it, like a warped disk, but after setting it up and 20 hrs of operating later it's still going great …. Good-Luck …. GK

 

[hel2002002yahoocom]

Gary, I checked and re-check the gap in all 3 locations several times. I turned the ignition switch on then the PTO switch to engage the clutch and re-measured the gap, I had to re-adjust it too, eventually I got it somehow consistent in all 3 locations ... I'll re-check again after work today.

Thanks,
Henry.

 

[hel2002002yahoocom]

I found the cause of the smoke ... it's the clutch coil itself that seems to be touching the rotor as it spins. I took it apart a can see the protective film being peel off and the burning smell as well. I'm not sure how to cure that ...Another problem popped up as I was fixing the clutch ... the engine stopped suddenly so I thought it was out gas... after I refueled tried restarting it turns over and tries to start but then nothing happens ...my take is maybe the points just went bad ...

I can't catch a break with this thing ...
BTW, does anybody have a procedure to adjust points for the 318, this is my first time.
I appreciate your help.

Henry.

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Henry - You need to check fuses , as a fried PTO coil can - and will blow fuse, causing lack of spark (I think) . The easy solution is to take the pto off and inspect everything involved relative to it , especially the rotor hub bearing . A bad bearing will cause interference with the rotor and field coil as you have mentioned . They can be easily replaced used or new .

So you might just as well search for the coil and bearing to do a fix-it-yourself , or get a complete used one from the many vendors on eBay , or put you a wanted ad in classified section here at WFM .

Good luck ;

Dave

 

[Hammerdown-7]

Henry
I run my PTO clutch Air Gap tighter than what they suggest. I think it is original on my 1983 John Deere 318 so I set it at 0.010" which work's best for me. When I set it at the factory suggested 0.018" it at time's Kick's out when I am mowing with it. It may be that my magnetic coil in the clutch is getting weak from age so in my eyes why strain it any more leaving a larger air Gap setting on it ? Mine kicks in quick, quietly when doing so and shut's down the same quick and quiet. Regards, Kurt

 

[hel2002002yahoocom]

Hi Folks,
Today I worked on the tractor and this is what I did:
- check the point gap ~0.019
- took the condenser out and replaced with an old one from a previous tractor, it started but it was rough, it was missing badly but at least it started.
- cleaned the points and other connectors from and to the coil
- put old condenser back and everything worked fine
- tried adjusting the PTO again to make sure it's OK
- started the tractor and engaged the PTO without the belt, let it run for a couple of minutes d seemed an
- remeasure the pto gap, I notice it changed a little after it got hot, re-adjusted it and tried it again, it seemd OK after that
- hook up the belt and before too long the burning smell came back, like someone mentioned maybe the tension is too tight.
- release some the tension, it almost looks like the adjusting knob is going to come out
- I tried again but I'm not sure if the burning smell was from before or if it's got too much tension ...
I'll try again tomorrow when the smell dissipates.
Thanks

-