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PTO on my 140

1928 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  steves
I bought an old ser#003122 140 H1 with a blown motor. I found a crankshaft, piston and rod from a member in Maine and reassembled the engine. The only problem I'm having (so far) is trying to get the electric PTO set up right. The driven (outer plate) is in contact with the inner plate at all times. I tried to shim the outer plate out, but that locked up the motor???? What in blue blazes is going on---or a going out of my mind???
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Ken Do you have some pictures so we can see which PTO you have. There are several different kinds, some with a brake system and some without.

Also did you take it apart, some have spacers to set the distance between the driven disc and the driving hub initally.

If you removed the field coil it has to be centered with the driving hub.
Ken it looks like you have the newer OGURA AM38532 PTO, and it looks like you have the early engine so you need to use (M46876) installation instructions to install it correctly. It doesn't look like you have the heat shield that goes between the PTO and the muffler.

Go to:


And download (140 installing PTO clutch AM38532).pdf

When you go to put it all together turn your crankshaft so the keyway is pointing up, then as you slide the rotor on put the key in the rotor as you slide it forward. Sometimes if you place the key near the engine it will slide up as you slide the rotor on and it will cause it to bind up.

Also the bushing or collar that you put on last as you bolt the PTO to the crankshaft either comes with one end slightly tapered or gets flattened out after being bolted to the crankshaft over time and the bushing will usually only go on one way.

Hope this helps, if you need drawings let me know and I can send them to you.
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Actually on the installation instructions they call for .010 to .012 air gap. That same type clutch is used on all the old Cubs and they also recommend the .010 to .012 air gap and I've never seen one go bad for that.
The electrical PTO's used on the JD-120 & 140'S are basically the same as the WARNER and OGURA PTO's used on the early Cub Cadets.

Since I own and work on both John Deere and Cub Cadet Lawn tractors (as a Hobby) I have all of the service manuals and parts manuals for both machines.

I think the thing that bothers me the most is the John Deere service manual doesn't say much about the PTO's and the drawings leave a lot to be desired. Even the parts manual leaves you guessing.

The Cub Cadet manual gives a lot of information with good drawings.

Where Ken say he had to put a shim between the rotor and the pulley is not covered in either John Deere manual and you won't even find a pulley in the parts manual. They show an armature that is hard to recognize how it would work.

In the Cub service manual they call the rotor and the pulley a driving hub and a driven disc.
The first thing they tell you is to check the clearance between the driving hub and the driven disc and if it is not a gap of .060 - .090 that you need to shim it with a shim kit. The later PTO's came with a fixed preset clearance.

I'm not trying to bad mouth John Deere manuals I just think they kind of skimmed over the PTO's to the point if you don't already know how they work you would be lost.

I have found other things covered in the John Deere manuals that are better explained than the Cub Manuals do. I think it just depends on who wrote that particlar area.
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