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PTO on my 140

1928 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  steves
I bought an old ser#003122 140 H1 with a blown motor. I found a crankshaft, piston and rod from a member in Maine and reassembled the engine. The only problem I'm having (so far) is trying to get the electric PTO set up right. The driven (outer plate) is in contact with the inner plate at all times. I tried to shim the outer plate out, but that locked up the motor???? What in blue blazes is going on---or a going out of my mind???
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I've seen the .018 gap setting in a number of messages and I don't think this applies to all clutches. My service manual for my 300 and 314 states to use .012-.014 as the setting for the above type clutch. I've never had a problem with this setting. Just my thoughts.


Thanks for the info. Mine are not dragging. How does the lower setting cause heat if they are not dragging?


The clutch on my 300 that I'm in the process of finishing had a shim also. I found that the bearing, which was toast, was loose both in between the 2 snap rings and was also not a press fit anymore in the housing. I took the shim out and put my "emergency bearing" in with lock tite bearing retainer. Made sure the 2 snap rings were put in with the bow inward and it works great. Eventually I will have to replace it, but for now it works ok.
BTW, the "emergency bearing" was one I replaced from my 314. Really didn't need it but did it anyway. Also the bow I refer to is when you take these snap rings out they sometimes are no longer flat. Should really have replaced them.

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