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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to change the rear axle housing on my 400 due to a broke 3 point tab. I'm stuck on getting the brake drum off. I tried a large 3 jaw puller and broke it trying to get it off. Has anyone tried a specific puller that works on this tractor? I hate to spend a lot of money on something that isn't going to get the drum off.

Thanks
 

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You broke the drum I assume? That can be a problem. But usually a lot of penetrating oil soaking for a day of so loosens them up. If you can still get a puller on it, try heating the hub and while applying pressure on the puller, rap the end of the puller shaft with a good sized hammer. Usually that breaks the bond and gets things moving. You could likely rent a suitable puller from most auto stores. Take a photo along so they can help you.

I'm not real familiar with the 400, but if it's a Peerless case I think you could remove the entire axle housing, axle and brake assembly at once. Wouldn't help with getting that drum off but it would allow you to install another assembly. There are plenty of those parts available on eBay or from members on this site.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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No, I didn't break the drum. I broke the puller. I'd been soaking. I also did try hammering the end of the puller shaft. I already have another axle housing
I tried the local auto parts stores (autozone and advance auto) and neither had a puller that would work. I'm thinking maybe something like this? Amazon.com: Kauplus Universal Hub Puller Universal Wheel Hub and Drum Puller Set : Automotive
Harbor Freight puller? I would recommend continuing what your doing. It sometimes takes quite a long time for the penetrating oil to work its way into the shaft. A bigger and better sooner or later will lead to breaking the drum if your not patient.

I watched a You Tube video lately where a guy was pushing a shaft off a sheave. It took him two weeks using all the things we talked about.
 

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Ideal, Check local auto parts stores before buying anything! Some have "rentals"... you pay full price, use it, return , and get a full refund... If you need it again... in the next 10 years... rent it again (for free!). I've done this several times for tools I'm gonna use once. Cost is only the gas to & from auto parts store! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll keep spraying and see what happens. It was a HF puller. rwmeyer, I checked and the autoparts here don't have a puller that would work. The rental tool service is great though and I have used it several times.
 

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Here is the puller I made many years ago from two pieces of 5/16" plate welded together to give 5/8" thickness. Holes are drilled for the unique JD 400 six lug wheels, and the JD 110 thru 420 five lug wheels. Fine thread grade 8 studs were cut from rod stock purchased from McMaster-Carr along with grade 8 nuts. Studs are threaded into the hub, the plate is slipped on the studs, the plate is spaced from the loosened axle nut with a suitably long piece of heavy rod, washers and nuts are added to the studs, and then tightened slowly and evenly with an impact wrench.
 

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Here is the puller I made many years ago from two pieces of 5/16" plate welded together to give 5/8" thickness. Holes are drilled for the unique JD 400 six lug wheels, and the JD 110 thru 420 five lug wheels. Fine thread grade 8 studs were cut from rod stock purchased from McMaster-Carr along with grade 8 nuts. Studs are threaded into the hub, the plate is slipped on the studs, the plate is spaced from the loosened axle nut with a suitably long piece of heavy rod, washers and nuts are added to the studs, and then tightened slowly and evenly with an impact wrench.
Wow! That would do it for sure.
 

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Ideal trucks.. the 400 hundred brake drum is tapered shaft with a key way. Easy fast way is to remove the castle nut, flip it around thread it back on till it’s just flush with the end of the shaft threads. Use a air hammer with a flat smooth bit. Hold it against the nut and vibrate the shaft. Works every time! All you need to do is shock it lose and your good and the nut is there to protect the threads from any damage. Once it pops lose, remove the nut and the hub will slide off
 

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This was my setup and photo showing rust on the axle. Air gun was not effective and no evidence that brake discs were binding.
Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Hood Yellow
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Locking hubs Rim
 

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This was my setup and photo showing rust on the axle. Air gun was not effective and no evidence that brake discs were binding.
View attachment 275384 View attachment 275385
Ideal trucks- says he has a 400 tractor. This is not a 400 , looks like a 425 or 455. The 400 machine is a bit different set up. Unless ideal truck is referring to a 400 series Newer style machine ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys. It is indeed a 400. I was finally able to get the drum off by using a large t bar puller I borrowed off a friend.
Now I've got to get the axle shaft back on. The bearing is too tight, so I'm going to try a heat gun on it and see if that will work. I already installed a new oil seal and don't want to damage the seal with too much heat.
 

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Put the bearing in your freezer, for a few hours or overnight, then heat housing. Heat will expand bore and freezer will shrink bearing. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd need to do it the other way around. I've got the bearing in the housing, but trying to slide the bearing/housing over the axle shaft.
 

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My bad! I've been know to be bass ackwards. Wash housing thoroughly and place in oven, NO higher than 200...seals will breakdown at 250. With axle outside in cooler temps, you may have a fighting chance. Bob
 

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Ideal trucks.. the 400 hundred brake drum is tapered shaft with a key way. Easy fast way is to remove the castle nut, flip it around thread it back on till it’s just flush with the end of the shaft threads. Use a air hammer with a flat smooth bit. Hold it against the nut and vibrate the shaft. Works every time! All you need to do is shock it lose and your good and the nut is there to protect the threads from any damage. Once it pops lose, remove the nut and the hub will slide off
That works great on any tapered shaft. Like flywheels. Also, beating on the end of your puller shaft goes a long way for breaking loose straight shafts. I had the same issue with the 420 axles/drums. It took time, like multiple days just adding a little pressure every once in a while, lots of penetrants, and a rap on the puller shaft as I tighten it. Works on mower deck spindles also.
 

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He-he, If you have an udder-half, the house will probably be colder than the outside!

Clean housing thoroughly inside & out, place in oven on top of some aluminum foil... when housing heats, oil in the metal may (??) ooze out and be caught by the foil.

A Plan B would be to use work lights, like the Halogen type. WATCH the temp though! These can bring it well over the 250 needed to destroy the seals. Bob
 
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