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I need to replace my rear tires, and need something more grippy than turf tires. I will be mowing around the property but not on a "Good Housekeeping" lawn that I want to be perfect. I'm wondering if anyone is using HDAP or R1 tread style rear tires and how they're working for you. I do push a little dirt out in the forest to fix the damage caused by pulling stumps with my backhoe, so I'm thinking the R1 tires would be better for me, provided they won't tear up the grass turf too much. I think ag tires would be too aggressive for my needs, but maybe not...? Thoughts?
 

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Lots of HDAP tread users here and most report excellent use characteristics. Full bar tires (ag type) are harder on turf but it very much depends on how you operate the machine. You are on the dryer side of the state, so maybe you can avoid mowing when the lawn is likely to be muddy...but for all around use the HDAP tread seems a safer bet. I had been using regular turf tires (well...MultiTrac C/S actually) with my mowing and my tilling and some light Johnny Bucket SR materials moving chores on my hilly property and did not have any real issues. Suitcase weights and wheel weights should be used as needed.
92 322 with tiller and front weights.jpg

Chuck
 

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I love the Carlisle All Trails on my 120. They offer much more traction than turfs and do not tear of the yard unless I change directions too quickly.
 

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Chuck and TBorkosky, thanks for weighing in. One more question: it looks like the rear rims from a JD110 will fit my 322 (JD AM104009), although the rim is narrower on the 110 (7" vs 8.5" for the 322). I ask because I've found a couple of rims from a 110 that I could use to mount ag tires on when I need the pulling power. Thoughts?
 

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Spokane322,

The tire catalogs give a solid suggestion on what rim width to use with each of their tire models. Using a narrower rim causes the tire section to be less flat and gives a smaller contact patch, but you might find some bar tires that fit the narrow rims. Here is a typical page from a Carlisle catalog showing rim width per size for the Tru-Power lugged tires...
tru power sizes and ratings.JPG

Notice you an get the 23 inch tall by 8.5 inch or 10.5 inch wide tread tires on a 7 inch rim, but to use the 26 x 10.50 and the much more desirable 26 x 12.00 you need the wider 8.5 inch rim. Other brand tires are even more fussy on rim width...

Just to have a frame of reference, the picture of my 322 with Multi-Trac C/S turf tires above are 26 x 12.00 and are on 8.5 inch wide rims...

In a bit of a contrast -- the All Trails in 25x10.50 fit on 7 inch wide rims but the HD Field Trax in 26x12.00 require 9.5 inch wide rims. You have to carefully check the manufacturer's data to be sure of what rim you need for any tire.

Chuck
 

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Chuck and TBorkosky, thanks for weighing in. One more question: it looks like the rear rims from a JD110 will fit my 322 (JD AM104009), although the rim is narrower on the 110 (7" vs 8.5" for the 322). I ask because I've found a couple of rims from a 110 that I could use to mount ag tires on when I need the pulling power. Thoughts?
The rears on my 120 will also fit on my 312 and 318. In the case of my 120 and 312, they both have 23 x8.50-12 tires on the narrow wheels. My 318 has 23x10.50-12s on the wider wheels. They all share the same bolt pattern. If/when the 318 gets placed in snow removal duty I am leaning towards the narrower tires on the rear following the lead of the snow plow operators I have encountered throughout the midwest.
 
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Experince with Firestone 23

lugs tires dont chew up a well developed lawn wit no rear weight

they do damage on tight turns in loose or muddy soil
 
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Narrow is good for snow somewhat. It allows a tire to dig through snow creating more traction then a wider one that generates ice if it spins. They both do but more psi on the snow helps tires dig. Once you have created ice Advantages go back to wider if it means more exposure to traction aids.

When it comes to wet ground, it’s not the tires fault. Stay off it, or use your tractor to fix a drainage issue. Turfs with enough weight not to spin is best, but tight turns can still destroy healthy sod.
 
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