[rrcountry]

This is a follow-up from the thread where I thought I cratered the Yanmar and it ended up being just a pulley in the mule drive.

So it's taken awhile, but I got the pulley replaced. After mis-placing

I put it all back together and something doesn't seem right with the mule drive. The side that has the tensioning spring appears ok. The other side that is tied to the tensioner nut at the front of the mule drive seems like it doesn't do anything. If I adjust the nut all the way down it doesn't adjust the other pulley. It seems like the side that is not attached to the spring doesn't do anything.

The end result is that there is not enough tension on the belt.

Any ideas? I can take pictures if necessary. Are there any good threads on how this is setup, because obviously I didn't take good pictures or notes on how it was previously. I thought it was just replacing the pulleys.

I know this probably doesn't make much sense, so please ask questions.

Once again, thanks for any help.

Ryan

 

[rrcountry]

So this is what I'm talking about. With the adjustment all the way in the bolt doesn't hit the one pulley so the tension is never reduced.

I looked in JD Parts and can't find anything. The 330 manual doesn't appear to have anything either.

So to be clear this is the part that takes the vertical belt coming off of the PTO clutch pulley and turns it horizontal to run the mowing deck. I've called it a Mule Drive, maybe it has another name?

Thanks for any help.

 

[bo2009]

Think PC 1935 is the parts catalog you want to look at. That & the operating manual for the particular mower deck you have. Not 100% sure.
Bet Chuck will probably know.
[It is the thing about the larger L&G tractors: more manuals & more parts catalogs.] Bobo

 

[chuckv]

Ryan,

What mule drive belt are you using? There are two lengths that are often confused by the 'new kids' in the parts departments -- the longer one is for the Onan powered 316/318 tractors and there is a slightly shorter one for the 322/330/332. The reason for the difference is that the crankshaft pulley on the Onan is a bit higher (due to the horizontally opposed configuration of this engine...) compared to the conventional crank height on the in-line Yanmar.

According to the PC1935, the correct belt for a 330 is the M89112, whereas for the 318 it would be the M82718. My guess is that you have the wrong sized belt...
John Deere - Parts Catalog 1935 ...pdf (36.1 k)

Chuck

 

[rrcountry]

Looks like I have the correct belt.

The thing I'm concerned about is the mule drive itself. The side without the tension spring. It really doesn't seem to do anything. If I rotate the pulley, with no belt on, it never gets into a position where the adjustment knob on the front would be effective. In other words if I put that pulley in the same position as the other side with max tension, the adjustment bolt still doesnt hit like the picture above. Almost like something is put together backwards or upside down.

I'd rake pictures but not sure how well it would help. Are there any exploded views of how it is supposed to be out together.


Thanks
Ryan

 

[charms]

The bolt isn't supposed to hit the arm that is connected to the pulley. It is supposed to pull the arm and pulley. Maybe your bolt is too long?

 

[ajcan]

The other pulley is not a tensioner rather an idler.It does not move/adjust.The belt just rides on it.The other pulley is a tensioner pulley,it moves back and forth with the movement of the center bolt.


AJ

 

[flyingtim01]

Ryan, something that jumped out at me from your second post - "With the adjustment all the way in the bolt doesn't hit the one pulley so the tension is never reduced." The adjusting knob should be turned all the way OUT (counterclockwise) to reduce tension.

Like Cliff said, the bolt isn't supposed to hit the arm. You loosen it just about all the way so you can get the belt routed through the mule drive and over the deck pulley, then you tighten the knob (which pulls the tension pulley towards the front of the tractor) to set the tension on the belt.

 

[rrcountry]

Ok, that makes more sense. I'll look when I get home again.

So what would be "full tension" with the bolt in the position in the picture above or screwed all the way out. I'm certain I tried both and there was not enough tension on the belt and it didn't seem to make a difference. Or, adjusting the knob made no difference in belt tension.

Asked another way, when I first install a new belt, where should the little bar (indicator rod) be positioned? At the top or the bottom?

Where should the indicator be with the bolt (in the picture) screwed all the way in or all the way out?


Thanks,

Ryan

 

[ajcan]

Ryan

The indicator should point down when all of the slack is taken out of the belt.
As you tighten the center bolt the indicator will raise.
There is a decal on the front cover plate showing where to stop for proper tension.
However my belt is stretched so I tighten the bolt until it bottoms out and I am not able to turn it anymore.
The center bolt should have a knob on the end to turn it by hand.

AJ

 

[rrcountry]

Thanks everyone... looking at it again, the adjustment is just not enough to get enough tension on the belt.

Question: the package on the belt said M89112, but the actual part number on the belt (and receipt from JD) says M119871. I did a search on this part number on JDParts and no match was found. Could I actually have the wrong belt?

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[ajcan]

I would say you have the wrong belt.
I looked up the belt on jdparts and the number does not supersede to another number.
So the number on the actual belt should read M89112.I have a brand new belt in my toolbox and M89112 is printed on the belt itself as well as the packaging.

AJ

 

[chuckv]

Ryan,

That is definitely the wrong belt! M119871 shows on JDParts as used on the newer 48 inch replacement deck for the 330, 332 and 322 in PC2358. Your deck is the *model* 48 deck which is actually 46 inches of cut, and requires the M89112 belt as posted by AJ above and by me in this thread earlier on the 17th. All the parts for your 46 inch cut deck are found in PC1935.

The correct belt will result in your being able to attain the proper tension... Your dealer should make this exchange for free as it was the stockroom's error in putting the wrong belt in the correct sleeve.

Chuck

 

[rrcountry]

Called the dealership and they said they would exchange. Should have it tomorrow or Monday at the latest (if I can get over there tomorrow).

Will let everyone know. Thanks for you help.

Now if I could only find a drag link...

Ryan

 

[KB]

Ryan,

what part do you need? can you post a picture, or the jdparts diagram? I have many spares

KB

 

[rrcountry]

Belt was the problem. Put the new one on this morning and was mowing shortly afterwards. Thanks for all the advice.

KB... there is another thread 330 Drag Link, that has a picture. The ball-joint up front the boot is dry rotted. I think you have to replace the entire linkage.

Let me know if you can't find the other thread or the picture is not good enough. Here is a word document (this laptop doesn't have a PDF writer) showing the JD Parts diagram. It is part 12.

Thanks,

RyanDrag Link.docx (41.5 k)

 

[chuckv]

Ryan,

Glad to hear you got the tension/belt length issues sorted out and can mow again.

The steering link, AM100766, is common to both the 330 and the 316 Onan model tractors, so you might look on "that auction site" -- just saw a couple there in the $20-30 dollar range (condition is always a concern with used parts...but Deere is not making any new ones.)

Good luck...

Chuck