[TheHomesteader]

Has anyone attempted a rear mount snow blower on a 300 series garden tractor? I recently purchased a 332, I have a 4 way front blade for it and am in the market for a two stage 47 blower or something similar from a different manufacturer. I think that the rear blower/front blade would make a great combo as we usually get only a few inches of snowfall sporadically between large snowfalls and my 49 blower on my 318 was a pain ITA with the light snow falls.. So I switching back and forth between the blower and the blade. plus you could wind row a few passes with the blade then blow it with the rear blower.

I do have the rear belt drive pto for the hydraulic tiller. I wonder if I could just fabricate a pto coupler on that pully and custom mount a blower to the three point hitch. Might need to reverse the spin direction of the blower though??

 

[jake_vc]

Has anyone attempted a rear mount snow blower on a 300 series garden tractor? I recently purchased a 332, I have a 4 way front blade for it and am in the market for a two stage 47 blower or something similar from a different manufacturer. I think that the rear blower/front blade would make a great combo as we usually get only a few inches of snowfall sporadically between large snowfalls and my 49 blower on my 318 was a pain ITA with the light snow falls.. So I switching back and forth between the blower and the blade. plus you could wind row a few passes with the blade then blow it with the rear blower.

I do have the rear belt drive pto for the hydraulic tiller. I wonder if I could just fabricate a pto coupler on that pully and custom mount a blower to the three point hitch. Might need to reverse the spin direction of the blower though??

I think there's a video on youtube where a guy combined the mount and drive from a 33 tiller with a 49 blower.

 

[TheHomesteader]

I think there's a video on youtube where a guy combined the mount and drive from a 33 tiller with a 49 blower.

I think there's a video on youtube where a guy combined the mount and drive from a 33 tiller with a 49 blower.

Interesting. do you have a link to that?

 

[jake_vc]

Here, it's a 317;

 

[knottyrope]

IMO double the work with front plow and rear thrower or get a center plow with front thrower and do it all in one pass with out looking over your shoulder all the time

 

[TheHomesteader]

I just came across a sears 48” blower that has been retrofitted with a hydraulic motor. However I don’t think I’d be able to get the flow rate out of an auxiliary hydraulic pump off my dual belt PTO.

I may still pick this blower up and convert it to a shaft drive off of a custom PTO pully in place of my tiller drive motor. I already have the cat1 limited three point hitch so this might be the easiest route to get a two stage blower on my GT.

 

[TheHomesteader]

IMO double the work with front plow and rear thrower or get a center plow with front thrower and do it all in one pass with out looking over your shoulder all the time

That would be cool. I have never came across a center plow for sale. I wonder if anyone on here has ever built one from scratch.

 

[chuckv]

Yes there have been several center blade/grader blade build threads on this site, including my own. The archives do not have the pictures anymore, so I will attach the saved PDFs that I have...

Chuck

 

[TheHomesteader]

Yes there have been several center blade/grader blade build threads on this site, including my own. The archives do not have the pictures anymore, so I will attach the saved PDFs that I have...

Chuck

It’s is great material thanks!! I wonder how center blade will do with the snow. That center blade looks like it works awesome for spreading material around.

 

[TheHomesteader]

This is what I'm Thinking for the rear PTO for a rear mount blower. it would be 3600rpm PTO if I'm not mistaken.

What I would do is duplicate the tiler pump bracket, and instead of the hydraulic pump, put in a keyed shaft with a chunk of 540 PTO output shaft that I would weld up on the lathe to make sure it is concentric. I think the dual belt setup should be enough to prevent slippage

 

[charms]

I have one of those mounting plates listed on ebay. I have another one I could sell for a little less off ebay.

PM me for more info, thanks. Cliff from Manitoba

 

[chuckv]

Actually, the 30 hydraulic tiller rear pump Belt drive is a slight reduction, so the pump turns at abut 3000 RPM. Your figure above would also be that speed if the double sheave is the same size as the one on the original tiller driven side of the belt pair.

If you make your double pulley the same diameter as the drive side, the ones on the tractor's PTO shaft extension, then you will get a speed equivalent to the governed WOT for your tractor (which is 3450 RPM for a 318, 3425 for a 332, and 3400 for a 430...)

What accessories do you wish to operate with this "non-reduction" rear shaft PTO?? Are these attachments you plan to make yourself?? We want pictures, of course...!

Chuck

 

[TheHomesteader]

Chuck,

My plan is to:
1) convert Tiller to 3 point Hitch
2) fabricate the 3000RPM PTO with a "540 style" output shaft as show in my 3d views
3) fabricate a three point hitch 48" two-stage snowblower (reduction and reverse direction if required will be chain drive on the back of the blower body), amount of reduction is TBD.. unless someone knows the reduction of the Deere #47 2-stage blower off hand??
4) Mount the tiller hydraulic pump to the top of the tiller body so I don't have to remove the "540 style" pto output shaft when I switch to spring/fall tilling

It would be ideal to find a 48" or 50" brush mower that I could do a chain drive reduction on the top of the brush mower body to drop my 3000RPM down to 540RPM.

Other then that I don't think I would have much use for any other PTO driven attachments.. However, I'm always looking for the next best thing..

 

[dkarst]

3) fabricate a three point hitch 48" two-stage snowblower (reduction and reverse direction if required will be chain drive on the back of the blower body), amount of reduction is TBD.. unless someone knows the reduction of the Deere #47 2-stage blower off hand??

For Deere 47 snowblower, auger speed = 176 rpm, impeller = 950 (from manual)...

 

[TheHomesteader]

For Deere 47 snowblower, auger speed = 176 rpm, impeller = 950 (from manual)...

Wow, quick reply I appreciate it!

So my chain drive reduction on the back of the blower body would be reducing my 3000RPM PTO shaft speed to +-1000RPM (3:1) the reduction for the auger is built in to the deferential on the auger shaft I believe.

 

[TheHomesteader]

This is the only picture I have so far of the Sears 48" blower. it apears to have a gear box on the back already (aft. the hydraulic motor).

The guy still wants $850 for just the blower body which is quite a lot in my opinion.

 

[sublime68charger]

will be following along. I would think this would be a nice setup if you can make it work good. the Blade up front for most of the work the blower on the back gives you rear end weight for pushing traction and then if you get deep snow you can just back up and blow it. Kinda Best of both worlds if your doing 90% plow and 10% blow I would think it be good.

 

[charms]

The driveshaft between the engine and hydrostatic pump works at 3400 rpm because it is very close to straight, and the u-joint angles don't change. I am no engineer, but I doubt that a driveshaft from the tractor to the snowblower would be happy at 3000 rpm. You could however put a larger pulley on your 540 style shaft, and bring that rpm down to 2000 or less.

 

[TheHomesteader]

Charms-

I was actually wondering that today as well. My original goal was to have the hydro pump for the tiller mounted to the tiller body so I didn’t have to swap Out the 540 style PTO for the tiller pump but unfortunately that pump would need 3000rpm to run properly..

I too would be a bit scared/stressed out to walk around behind the tractor with a 3000RPM shaft whistling away. I think I’ll have to revert to the two option a 2000rpm 540 style PTO output shaft for the blower and a 3000rpm tiller pump drive. Wouldn’t be too difficult to change out once or twice a year

 

[TheHomesteader]

I Also will be adding two bearings, one on either side of the 1/4” plate, as opposed to the single bearing shown in the 3D model. For durability and less side loading on the ball bearing.