[440rat]

In the next year or so I'll be moving to a new property so in preparation I bought a project 318. My plan is to use it for snow blowing, mowing, maybe some tilling, and whatever other random tasks may pop up. I currently have the tractor 98% disassembled in order to clean, repair and replace any worn and broken parts. While its apart I was considering a 420/430 2 speed rear end, and an H3 kit. My question is are the upgrades worth it? I can see the benefits to having a locking diff. but what about 3 spool hydraulics? (I'm new to the hydraulic machines)

 

[trapperjohn]

Matt, It's worth it just for the locking differential. I have never had my 420 in high range, only low, but I plow snow with wheel weights and my MCS still attached (approx. 225 lbs.) and turf tires. I rarely get stuck or even spin a tire, but when I do I step on the locking diff. knob and walk right out.

 

[minisub]

Ron,
I tried leaving the MCS on as my rear weight one winter. I found the lack of rearward visibility an issue and I found more "stuff" with the blower bracket than was acceptable.

Matt, since you're so far torn down, both options might make sense if you can make them make cents....I get by without the locking diff with alternating use of the steering brakes, but that does seem like a very nice option.

 

[440rat]

What all can be run off rear hydraulics? Can the factory 318 diff. be converted to a locking diff?

 

[rustyknuckles]

In my opinion, it would be less work to just bolt in a 420 rear end, than to try to upgrade one from a 318.

 

[doug_cartwright]

Matt,
Last year I added the Auxiliary Hydraulics h3 kit to my 322. It took the better half of two days to install. I think it is great,as I use a rake or tiller on the 3 pt hitch while having the blade on front.If you use your tractor this way,it is worth the time and effort.
Just last month I finally tore down the 430 rear diff. that I bought a couple years ago. I put the upgrade shim kit and new seals in it. The rear swap costed $500+ and took me the better part of 4 days to complete,including going through the diff.
Was it worth it? It depends on how much time and money you have.I am glad I did it,but it wasn't as cheap or easy as the h3 upgrade...

 

[440rat]

Doug,
Whats the upgraded shim kit? And how hard was it to install new seals? I located a 2 speed from a 420, and I'd rather replace things now then down the road.

 

[doug_cartwright]

The newer transmissions have shims with tabs to keep them from turning in the case.Its hard to tell what you have until you open the case.
the 5 shims all come together in...
AM10709 John Deere Washer Kit
When you split the case,you will need John Deere Gasket MIU10615 to replace the gasket.
axle seals are... John Deere Seal M48934
shifter rod seals are...John Deere Seal M48949
You will also need the o ring that goes between the hydro and diff,and may as well replace the 4 seals on the hydro as well.
All of this is the easy part.The hard part is modifying the shift linkages and mounting them.It takes a lot of fumbling around in close quarters...and careful measuring...and double checking...and head scratching...and hole drilling,and filing...and dropping nuts and bolts...and chasing them down...

 

[knottyrope]

you can convert a 318 diff to a locker if you have a 420/420 diff to get the parts from

you will have to drill your case for the diff lock rod though

some thing the 420 diff is either too slow or too fast compared to a 318

there is a post on someone doing this before

 

[coalminer16]

Knotty is right. There was someone who liked the "middle" speed of the 318 rearend but did want the locking diff. You do need the individual parts from a parts tractor as they don't sell the parts to do it anymore.

Brother and didn't mess with measuring and drilling for the linkage braces. We put in place and welded down. You don't need to remove them to remove/install the rearend so we didn't feel the need to take that additional time. The shifter-you cut it shorter-so you cut out a piece and weld back together. You need to notch your frame for it. The diff lock frame cut-just cut a triangle and bend the linkage to make it work while in the tractor (just don't start things on fire with the torch. I do think someone made the shifter work by just bending the tabs where it reaches the diff.

Holes in the fender pan-myself I used a 430 rear fender fan as my OEM pan had cracks. On the 332 you need to notch it out some. But the 420/430/318 pans are the same other then the holes for the diff lock/shifter.

If you are looking at possibly getting the equipment-it is rarer then the tractor since almost all 318's mowwed-but not all had tillers, blowers, etc so the search can take a little longer and need to drive further to pickup.

H3-great option. I used a 3 point blade behind my snow blower my first year. Using a front blade/tiller would make it nice as well. These all just give more options. You may never need it-but it is nice to have at times.

 

[440rat]

Thanks for the opinions. I bought a 2 speed rear end with all the linkage from a 420 today and it will be here Monday. I've read a few threads on doing the conversion, and it looks fairly straight forward. I'm still looking for a H3 kit, and a few other parts before reassembling the tractor.

Is there a good source for an exploded view or parts break down for the 420/430 rear end? I want to replace all the seals before it put it in the frame.

 

[knottyrope]

http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/394786.html

you don't have to shorten the 2 speed rod, I choose to bend it a lil bit, check out my thread when I did it for a WFM member

 

[doug_cartwright]

I also bent the arms that attached to the posi.For the hole in front I was able to squeak by just drilling a 1 inch hole just in front of and even with the top of the large 1 1/2 inch hole.Then I drilled a few 1/4 inch holes to break off the triangle pieces and then cleaned it up with a file.The foot knob fell right into place on the fender.(LUCKY)
I rebent,cut off ,and rethreaded the two speed rod,but I can see how bending the other end may be easier.
I used TM 1591 to guide me through the work on the gear case.