[dunoon]

I recently bought a 430 thats in pretty good shape, while replacing the tires with ag tread I decided to remove the brake drums to check out the condition of the brakes. I have a 3 legged puller, They won't budge, I've sprayed them with PB Blaster no luck, I'm leary of using heat, I'm afraid of damaging the seals. Has anyone had trouble removing these drums and how did you do it.? Thanks

 

[dfrankm5]

Richard,
A week ago I removed my drums from my 430 but did experience this issue as you have and many others. My Drums came right off as I had previously applied a good grease to the axles when the drums had been removed and reinstalled. There are a lot of Posts and examples of guys on this forum who used some pretty beefy puller's they made to remove those pesky drums. You might do a "search" and you will find some posts and suggestions of how they accomplished pulling their drums off. Good luck. Don't give up! they can be persuaded off!

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

Use ANTISIEZE to reassemble.

 

[knottyrope]

you might need a better puller

see the one made here
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/58112.html

 

[ab318]

I tried on my 318 with an old disk brake from my Acura RSX.
The bolt circle is a perfect match then I used the five bolts.
Then I pulled with my four biggest puller but finally the drum is still there and the disk is broken.

I still have all four old disk and maybe I will try something else later.
If someone have any idea, let me know.
Good luck!
Andre

 

[knottyrope]

I disk brake isn't strong enough to use as a puller IMO. you need thicker metal than what a disk is made from

 

[jd195350]

Andre, look at the post above from KnottyRope that refers you to another post. George Liskey's post # 685 had pictures of the one he had made. It seems like to me that the one he made would work better if it had a drilled / tapped hole in the center of the 5 bolts that go into the brake drum. Then you could pull off the end of the axle without damaging the axle or nut threads. If all of the bolts in the brake drum were tightened evenly, you should get a good even, straight pull on the drum. Not sure this would work, but it seems like the best way to get an even pull.
I really got lucky working on my 330 a couple of weeks ago. Removed axle nut and took them off with my hands.
Joe G.

 

[doug_cartwright]

OTC 6574

 

[ab318]

I bought a pile of cutting disk at very good price for my small angle grinder.
If I cut a pentagon from all the center of the disk I can have 4 plates.
It's probably strong enough at around 1" thick.
Then I can try to do like Jim and George.
Andre

 

[knottyrope]

that might do it

 

[dalekast]

Richard: I pulled mine off using the 3-prong puller as well. There are definitely better plate pullers, but if a 3-prong is all you have will work, I drew up all of the play on the center bolt, then tapped the ends of If the center bolt had not loosened after a revolution, I just kept going around, until it did. It was a long process, but it worked. Once I got the hub out beyond the end of the axle, I kept the center hub filled w, penetrating oil - as I continued to rotate the puller w/ each tap, the penetrating oil was slowly working around the shaft. Not much impact at first, but as the movements began to increase, I think the penetrating oil had a greater impact. Once you get the hub off, use a fine steel wool on both the axle, and the hub, to remove the crud. Then go over it with a tack cloth to remove the fine particles. As most have already stated, get a can of Permatex No-Sieze: it makes a big difference.

 

[dalekast]

Correction, Line2: "....play on the center bolt, then tapped the ends of the three prongs, rotating the drum as I went. If the center bolt had not loosened after a revolution, I just kept going around to each prong, until it did. Then would draw down on the center bolt to increase the tension, and repeat the process. It was a long process, but it worked. Once I..."

 

[akaothermick]

Dale, that's the method I used on my 318, long and tedious process with slow but incremental progress, yet for those with patience it will work, and, yes always never-seize, you never know you might have to go back into it at a later date.

 

[dfrankm5]

Guys,
Now someone should do a video on how to properly adjust the brakes after placing the springs, shoes and star-adjusters and brake drums back on. Though I have read the manual countless times and did a thread search and read several threads on this subject, a specific step by step video would be helpful. i.e. 1.) Do you do the brake adjustments via the star-adjuster first for each side before you reattach the springs that go to each brake rods. I have found if you attach the springs to the brake rods even with the star-adjusters in their closed position there is a slight drag produced on the brake drums before any adjustments are even attempted making any potential adjustments fruitless. This is even before the final adjustment to the larger springs on the end of the brake rods [42mm adj.]is even made as well. I have searched YouTube with no good results. Just my two cents. Maybe I am missing the obvious somewhere!!!

 

[akaothermick]

Dave, I just assembled everything with the star adjusters closed, set the rods, then cranked the star adjusters to the point where the wheels lock up, then back each off to a point where they turn by hand, then I was done, seems to operate correctly and respond adequately