Sheldon by any chance did you take the charge pump off ? if so the pin that keeps the rotor gear from spinning could have slipped out. If that happens nothing will work . Jason
Replaced top shaft back seal, now nothing works.
Hello everyone. Well as the subject says, I had to replace the back seal on the top shaft in my 322.
I split the tranny and changed the seal no problem.
I just got it back in the tractor, and all topped up with oil, but nothing works. I have no movement, and no lift of steering.
Do you have to some how prime the charge pump? I am sure all the lines and system will be full of air since it was all apart.
Help, I am at a loss.
Thanks,
Sheldon
I split the tranny and changed the seal no problem.
I just got it back in the tractor, and all topped up with oil, but nothing works. I have no movement, and no lift of steering.
Do you have to some how prime the charge pump? I am sure all the lines and system will be full of air since it was all apart.
Help, I am at a loss.
Thanks,
Sheldon
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Yes, you have to remove the charge pump.
I replaced the pin that runs the rotor gear when I put it back together.
Is it supposed to be self priming?
I replaced the pin that runs the rotor gear when I put it back together.
Is it supposed to be self priming?
Here are the step's to bleeding the system, courtesy of Chuck Van Dusen.
BLEED HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
After installing a repaired or replacement part, follow this run-in procedure to assure that air is purged from
the hydraulic system.
1. Start engine and idle for 10 minutes.
2. Run engine at high idle for one minute.
3. Turn steering wheel full left and hold for five seconds.
4. Turn steering wheel to straight forward for 10 seconds.
5. Turn steering wheel full right and hold for five seconds.
6. Return steering wheel to straight forward. Travel vehicle forward about 20 feet and then make two hard
left turns.
7. Then make two hard right turns.
8. Travel vehicle in reverse for 10 feet.
9. Cycle mower deck up and down three times.
10. Shut engine off and inspect hydraulic components for leaks.
11. Fill reservoir as required with John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil.
BLEED HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
After installing a repaired or replacement part, follow this run-in procedure to assure that air is purged from
the hydraulic system.
1. Start engine and idle for 10 minutes.
2. Run engine at high idle for one minute.
3. Turn steering wheel full left and hold for five seconds.
4. Turn steering wheel to straight forward for 10 seconds.
5. Turn steering wheel full right and hold for five seconds.
6. Return steering wheel to straight forward. Travel vehicle forward about 20 feet and then make two hard
left turns.
7. Then make two hard right turns.
8. Travel vehicle in reverse for 10 feet.
9. Cycle mower deck up and down three times.
10. Shut engine off and inspect hydraulic components for leaks.
11. Fill reservoir as required with John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil.
Hummm, that is good info. In my case, my wheels won't turn unless I jack the front end off the ground, and the tractor will not move forward or back.
One time I had a 140 that wouldn't move. I had to remove the filter and fill it with fluid then reinstall it to get the system started.
After I posted tonight I went back out and looked at it some more. Decided to pull the housing for the charge pump off and turn it around. As it turns out, it can bolt on upside down. I just unbolted it and spun it on the shaft and bolted it back up.
I fired up the tractor and it primed up right away. I had to adjust the lever for a little bit of creep, but other than that all works great!
Thanks all for the responses!
Sheldon
I fired up the tractor and it primed up right away. I had to adjust the lever for a little bit of creep, but other than that all works great!
Thanks all for the responses!
Sheldon
good morning all I have a 1999? deere 445 overall condition is good but the motor has had dust inside the cost to rebuild is high so I was wondering has anyone replaced the Kawasaki 22hp with something else I would enjoy hearing what changes anyone has done thank you david
David
There was a fella on here a while back that did a 28? hp Kawasaki replacement.No one seemed interested so I sent him an email and he shared pictures and stuff with me.I did not keep them but was curious as to how it all went.He was very happy with it.
I hope he will chime in here if he sees this.
Here is a link to the engine I believe he used,
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/FD791D-JD445I.html?sc=17&category=1710722
Good luck.
AJ
There was a fella on here a while back that did a 28? hp Kawasaki replacement.No one seemed interested so I sent him an email and he shared pictures and stuff with me.I did not keep them but was curious as to how it all went.He was very happy with it.
I hope he will chime in here if he sees this.
Here is a link to the engine I believe he used,
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/FD791D-JD445I.html?sc=17&category=1710722
Good luck.
AJ
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Weekend Freedom Machines
A forum community dedicated to Vintage John Deere Tractors owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about classic restorations, references, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
tmac58star
178 Replies
army
174 Replies
TempletonJDguy
158 Replies
Recommended Communities
