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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
I slotted the holes in my adapter a bit to drop the engine down.
268565

The valve covers now clear and the PTO looks like it will still work with shorter belts.
268566

Now that the valve cover clears on the right side I can tell the control panel that is attached to the engine is hitting the side panel too. Not planning to use the Honda controls anyway, so I can probably just eliminate them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Here’s the control panel. You can kind of tell from the marks where it was touching.
268575

It comes off pretty easily.
268576

I think the only part of the panel I want to keep is the hour meter.
The side shield clears everything now. Now I should get back to work on the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
I thought over many different exhaust layouts. I’m trying to balance noise control and ease of fabrication in the space I have available. I’d really like a super quiet exhaust but I don’t have enough experience with small engine exhaust to know what works. Most of the ideas I came up with were complex and probably would have taken a pile of time to fabricate. I finally settled on an idea and started cutting parts. This is one of the simplest ideas I came up with and Y’all are probably still going to think I’m nuts. I expect it to take a few days for this to come together.
The tube sections cut:
268585

And the disk pieces hacked out:
268586

The first two disks welded on and the general layout:
268587

And another:
268588

The plan is to use a combination of baffling and insulation, but it may end up with just baffling.
 

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I thought over many different exhaust layouts. I’m trying to balance noise control and ease of fabrication in the space I have available. I’d really like a super quiet exhaust but I don’t have enough experience with small engine exhaust to know what works. Most of the ideas I came up with were complex and probably would have taken a pile of time to fabricate. I finally settled on an idea and started cutting parts. This is one of the simplest ideas I came up with and Y’all are probably still going to think I’m nuts. I expect it to take a few days for this to come together.
The tube sections cut:
View attachment 268585
And the disk pieces hacked out:
View attachment 268586
The first two disks welded on and the general layout:
View attachment 268587
And another:
View attachment 268588
The plan is to use a combination of baffling and insulation, but it may end up with just baffling.
Following this closely and anxiously awaiting this phase of your project. We're not putting any pressure on you are we?

Some mufflers come with stainless steel wool packed in them. Back in the day when the cops would write a ticket for loud pipes. steel wool was the go to solution. I'm like you. I can't get any engine quiet enough. But I'm always disappointed.
 
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What's the geometry like now? It looks like the idler pulley is gonna hit the engine pulley, which is what mine did with the engine tilted down at the front too much. I tried a smaller diameter idler on it and it pushed the belts over so far they were contacting themselves on the other side when the PTO was engaged. I didn't try shorter belts because I levelled the engine up. I put the original idler back on after that. What size are your belts? The new ones I put on it last week are 39" and have loosened up enough now to not spin the deck when the PTO is not engaged. Took a few hours of runtime.

I slotted the holes in my adapter a bit to drop the engine down.

The valve covers now clear and the PTO looks like it will still work with shorter belts.
View attachment 268566
 

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There is no way we're gonna think that. You're a do it yourself kind of guy, not crazy. (y)




If it weren't for ear muffs I'd be stone deaf by now.
What was that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
What's the geometry like now? It looks like the idler pulley is gonna hit the engine pulley, which is what mine did with the engine tilted down at the front too much. I tried a smaller diameter idler on it and it pushed the belts over so far they were contacting themselves on the other side when the PTO was engaged. I didn't try shorter belts because I levelled the engine up. I put the original idler back on after that. What size are your belts? The new ones I put on it last week are 39" and have loosened up enough now to not spin the deck when the PTO is not engaged. Took a few hours of runtime.
The second photo in post 121 shows the clearance with the PTO pulley held against its stop. This is the closest the two will get (other than engine vibration on the mounts). I THINK this will be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Appreciate all the feedback guys. I'm not the type that requires constant cheerleading, but it is nice to know that you are finding this interesting and useful. It does take a lot of extra time to take the photos, organize them, and post them. I'd have trouble justifying the effort if nobody cared.
 

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I'm pretty sure the xtra effort of the pics is very much appreciated. I know I'm enjoying all the progress. And with 4k views, theres a lot of eyes watching.
You've done some excellent fabricating and fitting of parts. Very nicely done.
 
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Had I seen a write up like this, I may have still owned my 400. Loved the tractor, hated the junk Kohler. Got tired of rebuilding it, and sold it.
 

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The second photo in post 121 shows the clearance with the PTO pulley held against its stop. This is the closest the two will get (other than engine vibration on the mounts). I THINK this will be ok.
Must be the camera angle and perspective then. Pics really are worth a 1000 words but sometimes they're not a substitute for eyeballing something in person. I watched a doc not long ago on vision and how the animal world (including humans) see things and one of the key points was our perspective can make things look really different than they actually are. And that's for things we see in person. Pics can add even more confusion. Also, I have 66 year old eyeballs. :rolleyes:

What was that?
What was what Joe?
 

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Appreciate all the feedback guys. I'm not the type that requires constant cheerleading, but it is nice to know that you are finding this interesting and useful. It does take a lot of extra time to take the photos, organize them, and post them. I'd have trouble justifying the effort if nobody cared.
The ability to explain things coherently like you are is every bit as important as the ability to do things, on a forum like this anyway. My dad was an amazing fabricator and mechanic but he wasn't a very good instructor. I would even say he was terrible at it. Not his fault. He just didn't have the teaching gene. His knack for mechanical stuff more than made up for it though. Sometimes it seems like the better we are at one thing the worse we are at something else. And vice-versa.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
I got the inlet holes cut in the two end sections. I decided to come straight out of the heads and into the muffler. I guess you could say this will act like two mufflers in one housing that meet in the middle with one outlet. Ignore the chunk of pipe. It was just there for a test fit
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The center outlet is about 180 degrees from the inlets.
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Here’s the inside of one of the end pieces. There’s no real point to this photo other than to show the progression of the insulation
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This may be a horrible idea… I decided to try mineral wool insulation instead of stainless steel wool. It should be good for 2000 degrees.

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I picked this piece of stainless perf up when I ordered the pipe from onlinemetalsupply.com. It is a 12x12 piece of 20ga and cost about $25. It isn’t bent - just light playing tricks on the camera.
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I cut a piece to fit and worked it inside the mineral wool.

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Other end done as well. Notice the heat marks. I didn’t take a photo, but I did tack the perf to the tube to keep it in place and hopefully prevent rattles
268683


Cut a hole in one of the divider plates and welded it on.

268684

I expect to finish up the main body of the muffler tonight and get started on the head pipes and “tail” pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Finished up the other end section:
268707

Then added the next section of tube:
268708

And some more mineral wool:
268709

Stainless perf added and the center section done as well:
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Disks welded in place:
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And finally, the complete muffler canister:
268712


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I put some effort into holding it in place to start fabricating the head pipes, but just didn’t have enough hands and eyes. I was planning on a support bracket anyway, so it looks like that has been moved up the priority list. Hope to get this supported in the correct location tonight so that I can finish up the pipes.
 

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Must be the camera angle and perspective then. Pics really are worth a 1000 words but sometimes they're not a substitute for eyeballing something in person. I watched a doc not long ago on vision and how the animal world (including humans) see things and one of the key points was our perspective can make things look really different than they actually are. And that's for things we see in person. Pics can add even more confusion. Also, I have 66 year old eyeballs. :rolleyes:


What was what Joe?
Answering Army's question. Hell! Can't remember?
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Must be the camera angle and perspective then. Pics really are worth a 1000 words but sometimes they're not a substitute for eyeballing something in person. I watched a doc not long ago on vision and how the animal world (including humans) see things and one of the key points was our perspective can make things look really different than they actually are. And that's for things we see in person. Pics can add even more confusion. Also, I have 66 year old eyeballs. :rolleyes:
The regulars to this site will know this already, but for the new members who don’t already know that Army is a seasoned veteran and I am not: Army is right, I am wrong.
When checking clearance, I was only moving the idler linkage until it hit what I thought was a stop. Upon closer inspection last night I realized that the “stop” is actually the brake. I was not moving the linkage nearly far enough. The pulleys will touch each other. Not by much, but they will touch. Will need to sort that out.
On the plus side: the OEM belts MIGHT still work. They got pretty close to tight once I moved the linkage properly.
 

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Once again kudo's! (I haven't heard that in years) You're doing fantastic work.
 
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What an awesome project! I mean, who builds their own muffler? I can't wait to hear the audio of the final result!
 
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