Finished up the other end section:
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Then added the next section of tube:
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And some more mineral wool:
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Stainless perf added and the center section done as well:
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Disks welded in place:
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And finally, the complete muffler canister:
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I put some effort into holding it in place to start fabricating the head pipes, but just didn’t have enough hands and eyes. I was planning on a support bracket anyway, so it looks like that has been moved up the priority list. Hope to get this supported in the correct location tonight so that I can finish up the pipes.
The inlet sections and the outlet section are tacked. The smaller sections are not.The engine swap is coming along pretty good. I can’t help but wonder if the ss screens in the muffler chambers will vibrate and rattle. Did you weld the screens inside each chamber to prevent rattling and vibration noises? Also wondering if they are loosely in place will the vibrations cause excessive wear and premature exhaust failure. I’ve never fabricated an exhaust so I’m asking for educational purposes
Yes, getting the pipe to line up with the side panel is a requirement for me. Of course I’ll be building the entire pipe.The most important thing to me was hitting the hole in the side cover. It did but was a little short and I had to add an extension to the tail pipe.
The muffler isn’t too heavy. I’d guess 7lbs maybe. If course that will grow as I add the pipes.I'm wondering how heavy your assembly is and if you think it will be an issue with vibration cracking things?
Commonly referred to a a "weedburner" exhaust. Likely from their propensity of starting grass fires. My vote goes for the original look. And puts that hole in the side cover to good use. Or, saves the time and money of finding and buying a cover without that gapping hole. Yours is nice work but not what I would do. But as they say? JMHO
I had considered routing the pipe to the ground once upon a time, but forgot all about it. Not too late to change my mind I guess.
Yes, stainless has WAY LOTS more expansion and contraction than mild steel. It moves all over the darn place as the welds cool. Keeping the flanges in place will not be trivial.For final weld up, if the exhaust ports are in the same plane, consider making a substantial template plate to minimize movement from the heat shrinkage. Maybe bolt the flanges to your welding bench. Anything to keep the flanges as lined up as possible. You'll still need to tweak them to fit the engine but a plate will ease the process. The bolt up needs to be nice and square and flat to not introduce stress on the engine.
My muffler is not Stainless, so maybe this wouldn't work, but for mine, we bolted the flanges with extension pipes to the engine, then I held the muffler in place while the fabricator welded it to the extension pipes. This insured the final positioning included flanges that were flush w/ the exhaust ports, and eliminated my backfiring issue. Once muffler - extension pipes are welded, you could then slide the support bracket in place and attach.Maybe bolt the flanges to your welding bench. Anything to keep the flanges as lined up as possible. You'll still need to tweak them to fit the engine but a plate will ease the process. The bolt up needs to be nice and square and flat to not introduce stress on the engine.
This is a technique known as "Pause and Learn". But I and many others like myself want to jump in and suggest, suggest, suggest. Having modified a muffler on a 111H, I am more content to watch and learn.My point is, there are as many ways to do this as there are folks doing it. I've thought about chiming in with suggestions but looking back at what he's accomplished so far I'll set back and maybe learn from him. I would once again warn him about piping the exhaust under the tractor mainly because the 420 presently getting torn down in my shop met its demise from a grass fire. (of unknown origin) And that's the main reason you never see farm equipment with bottom exhaust.