[ericduff]

Rebuilding the steering box on my 317, I have found some good information searching the forum but some of the part numbers didn't quite line up for me. Can someone show me what I will need?

 

[ericduff]

Nevermind, looks like a part number change for the seal was the only difference.

 

[Grant Baker]

I rebuilt mine last fall Eric,the only thing I bought for it was #17 the seal
And Welcome to WFM,there are a lot of knowledgable people on here,what tractor are you working on?

 

[Grant Baker]

Duh! a 317

 

[ericduff]

Thanks Grant, I just got the 317 a few days ago. Had the engine out and wanted to work on the steering while I had access. The steering wheel turns over 180 degrees before any movement at the tires. It was in pretty rough shape when I got it, but I think its a good first project for me.

 

[xtinctss]

I would suggest replacing #19 anytime you have the steering box apart for overhaul. This wear on this pin is where all the slop in the steering box comes from. Once that pin becomes worn it's almost impossible to get the box adjusted properly. Once the steering box is rebuilt check all of the rod ends for play. I have rebuilt five of these steering boxes and what I have found is the rod ends and cross shaft bushings can contribute about half the play in the steering system. It's not cheap to go completely though the steering system on one of these tractors but I think it's worth it.

Later,
Justin

 

[ericduff]

I ordered 17, 19, 2, 4 plus cross shaft bushings. I'm going to try and get the steering as tight as I can while the engine is out and everything is accessible.

 

[trav1s]

I replaced 2,4, 9, 10 16, 17, 22 when I rebuilt the 120's column. Not hard to do and made tons of difference in the way it steered.

 

[xtinctss]

I left out the fact that I do replace everything that used to come in the kit from John Deere. But one of the most important pieces is the number 19 stud. At 22 dollars and some change most people don't like to change it since it cost so much. But this piece makes the most difference inside the box when it's replaced. Changing the four rod ends on the steering linkage can make a big difference too.

Later,
Justin

 

[dr_evil]

JUSTIN - Like you said, I really HATE to replace a $22 part that will only wear and cause steering slop again. If your #19 pin only shows wear on two sides, you can lightly grind the bottom of the pin so it tightens deeper into the worm groove and install it just a fraction of a turn deeper. BT---- DT.... worked fine.

 

[ericduff]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Hopefully I can dive into it this weekend. I will check out the rod ends too.

 

[ericduff]

I would say mine had some wear.

 

[ericduff]

Damage done.

 

[tommyhawk]

Welcome to the forum, Eric! The worm is in very bad condition and would likely destroy the new tapered pin in a short time.
You might want to consider putting an ad in the "Wanted " section for a good used one and try to buy from someone who knows what he has. Then rebuild it with the new parts you have.
The 317 and 314 share the same steering gear. I don't think any other Deere used this same box., so be careful what you look for. The worm is "left hand" compared to the worm in most others.
You'll enjoy the tractor when it goes the way you point it. lol

tommyhawk

 

[ericduff]

Thanks Tom, I didn't know about the "left hand" worm being different than other JD's.

 

[sgtrock]

So, the worm from a 317 would NOT work for a 140?

 

[xtinctss]

According to John Deere parts the 312,314, and 317 all share the same part number AM35339. The 140 part number is AM33268.

 

[charms]

From what I see on JDparts, the 312 also uses AM33268, like a 140.
The 314, 317 and 400 use AM35339 which also subs to AM100267.

 

[tommyhawk]

It's always been a mystery to me why the 312 was different than the 314 steering. It uses a "bellcrank" up front similar to earlier designs.
The only 312 I've worked on was a raggety, beat up, worn out tractor that steered as easily as a 110.
The extra cross shaft and linkage on the 314 and 317 was not JD's best idea. Probably works much better on the 400 with the power steering causing less wear and tear on the steering worm and pin. Can any of you 400 owners confirm that?

Eric, you will want to check and as needed, replace some of the bushings or worn parts of the cross shaft linkage.



tommyhawk

 

[tommyhawk]

Here's a shot of the cross shaft for reference.

tommyhawk