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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a decent looking 314 for 400$ a couple weeks ago. Did not run, old owner said it needed a carb. Bought one of those cheap chinese knock off carbs off ebay (not ideal i know), new points/condenser, new plug, set points gap, fresh oil change, new battery. It runs now but its doing some strange things, will run fine for a little till its nice and warm then it will steadily start losing power, it will start blowing black smoke and now amount of carb tuning seems to pull it out of this once it starts doing it. Plugs are getting sooty black pretty quickly which i know is a rich condition but i just cant seem to get this thing tuned. Is there something else im missing, maybe a coil going bad?
 

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My first thought would be knock off carb! But let's look at the coil. Before starting, disconnect wire from + side of coil and plug wire from coil. Measure ohms in primary windings, + terminal to - terminal on coil, and secondary coil windings, -terminal to center terminal where plug wire was. RECORD readings. I don't have exact specs, but I think (??) primary resistance is around 5 ohms and secondary is around 10,000 ohms. Start engine warm, and run until it begins to run poorly. Perform coil resistance checks again and compare. Warm may be a little less, but very close.

While working on electrical end, I'd rebuild the original carb from the engine. Before doing/getting anything, check throttle shaft to sore clearance...move shaft up & down, back & forth. You'll have some clearance and going to be a judgement call on OK or too much! Next remove idle mixture screw and hi speed mixture screw. Inspect for deep grooves around the tapered area. The other failing item of the carb is usually varnish/shellac from old gas. If shaft & adjusting screws are OK, locate a rebuild kit and then get carb cleaner in a can that you soak parts in, not the spray stuff! Dismantle carb, soak for about 2 days, lifting & replacing parts often to help agitate cleaner. Remove parts and blow dry. Stick nozzle of parts cleaner or carb cleaner in all holes and blow out. Assemble carb, install, and give it a try!

A few side notes. After starting, warm for 5 minutes, go FULL throttle and leave at full throttle until finished operating! Air cooled engines need the rpm to properly cool.
If when idling, engine shakes, increase idle speed until shaking stops. The excessive shaking WILL break your rubber engine mounts! Best of luck. Bob
 

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HI i m looking for john deere Hydraulic life pedistisa and lift handle am35081 m80033 on my john deere 216 garden tractor .
Troy
 

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johndeere6080 - you are posting in the wrong thread - you need to pock around and find the Wanted To buy section.
 

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Bought one of those knock off carbs for a K341. Did you verify the choke operation? Had to swap mine around as pushing the choke knob in would close the choke plate....which would certainly cause it to run like ****e, blow black smoke...and die once it warmed up.

Something to look at if not already taken care of.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for the replies and being so through! I knew I was taking a big chance with the cheap carb so I will order a rebuild kit tonight, and I did check the choke plate....i Wish that’s all it was. ill Get out the multimeter in the next few days and see what that coil is doing, I’ll post my findings. Again, thank you all.
 

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The biggest reason for me thinking it's a carb issue more than ignition issue is the black sooty plug. With the correct mixture, I'd expect to find wet plugs indicating all of the fuel was not burning. Check the coil anyhow and keep the readings someplace where you can find them. At some point, the coil may give you issues...maybe tomorrow, maybe in 20 years! Bob
 
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