[bender]

I picked up a 332 that was sitting outside in the weather with a pull behind mower attached to it. The owners did not take very good care of it and I just had to save it. Came with a 54 blade & wheel weights. 1200 hours on a working meter. I found the deck, grill & side panel in a horse barn and brought everything home. I absolutely love the power the diesel has. Now the problem. The glow plug light will come on very dim the first time you start it for 3 seconds, but the tractor fires right up. Lately the fuel shut off will not always open up when you turn the key on. When it does work my test light lights up like it’s getting 20 Amps for about a second! The solenoid "hold wire" always works. So if I don't hear the "click" I can manually move the solenoid and it will hold open and start. Any ideas?
Thanks, Craig

 

[chuckv]

Craig,

Welcome to the Yanmar three cylinder owner's group! These are awesome tractors in both gas and diesel -- I have two of the 322 models.

The fuel cutoff valve does have both a pull in winding and an hold in winding. These are separately driven in tractors with a SN above 420468. Both windings are driven in parallel for tractors below 420469... Check the connections at the fuses for good, clean contact. I would definitely replace the ignition switch if this tractor was outside for many seasons -- these switches can fail from wear even when the elements are not involved. Check the connectors that mate with the switch tabs for signs of corrosion or burning due to excessive heat.

The glow plugs would only be active for ambient temperatures below 68* and should actuate for up to 8 seconds according to the descriptions in the TM1591 electrical section 240-15-30

I will send you some schematic information as it is too large to post here.

Chuck

 

[rob_tegtmeyer]

I would check all electrical connections.
Unplug and at least plug back in, helps make sure better contact.
Make sure battery terminals are clean.
Remove plug from regulator, and slightly bend the female side of the plug's terminals, so that they put pressure on the regulator's male side.
I use some dielectric grease on all my connections to stop them from oxidizing.
My 332 started to do this when the alternator bearings where starting to seize up. Do a search for that subject.
Rob

 

[bender]

Chuck, thanks for the schematics and info. The SN is 100218 I think. 1991 model.
Rob, thanks for the info on the regulator, never even thought about that. I'll let you know what I find.

 

[minisub]

Hey Craig, I don't have much to add beyond what Rob and Chuck have suggested. However, mine is a 1990 that is running pretty well if you ever want to stop by and poke around under the hood.

 

[bender]

Hi Tom,

Good to hear from you. I may take you up on that offer. I'm waiting for my ignition switch to come in before I go any further.

 

[bender]

I cleaned my connections at the regulator, they were pretty crusty. All the other connections looked good. When I would turn the key on and tap the TDCM, the fuel shut off solenoid would work about every time. Removed the TDCM and looked at the board. See pictures. One of the silver resisters looks like it may be busted. Can these be fixed? Also found two cracks on the frame and one on the tranny mount. Also found this "welded" spindle.

 

[arp123]

Craig,
The TDCM can be fixed. That silver thing is actually a capacitor. Also this looks to me like a newer TDCM, possibly it has been replaced. Is the date on the black box newer than the tractor? Wondering if there is another problem with the tractor that would cause the TDCM to go. I've fixed many of these and have never seen this problem with that capacitor before.
Andy

 

[bender]

Andy,

Does that capacitor look normal? I'll check the date on the box and get back to you. Whats the cost to repair?

 

[arp123]

Craig,
No that capacitor does not look normal. Shoot me an email if you would like me to take a look at the TDCM.
Andy

 

[jason_w_hangartner]

Looks like that tractor has been bucking like a rodeo horse. Time to get out the welder (but don't do it like they did on the spindle)

 

[jd_bob]

Between my dad and myself, we have broken 3 of those spindles on our 430s. Always on the left front at that weld location.

Bob

 

[Sandpiper]

Craig, that part is indeed a capacitor. Can't read the number, but it will be uf (not actually a u, but keyboard limitations!). Any electronic parts shop will be able to match that up for you, be about $0.25 worth! It will likely be a polarized cap but normally mounting it backwards would have very little effect, but if you can find either a band, or a +/- symbol on it, match it up with your new one.

They are not overly heat sensitive so you won't likely destroy the new one soldering it on. Capacitors are usually wired across power to act as a filter. They have no effect on DC and impeed AC. If they short internally (very common) then they usually either pop or blow an end out (like yours).

Greg

 

[bender]

Jason, my hydro is very jerkey. Do you know if the frame can be welded from the outside (bottom) only, or do I have to disassemble everything and do a complete weld?

Bob, I was surprised that that welded spindle is holding. I'll probably just get a used spindle. The tractor never seemed to turn tight enough to the right, maybe that has something to do with it.

Greg, thanks for the info on the capacitor.

I've saved a lot of time and money with great advice from all you guys. I've rebuilt the deck and the front end with info from this site. Cuts like a dream. Now I need to work on the looks.} Thanks!

 

[chuckv]

Craig,

Do a site search on "jerky hydro" or similar terms as there is a lot of info available here. Wear in the hydro linkage is probably part of the issue and the dampener may need to be replaced (or upgraded to a rev4 if your tractor is a rev3...)

Chuck

 

[jason_w_hangartner]

Also check you rear end bolts to be sure they are all tight. If they have any play at all then your frame can crack easily. Except the forward transmission cross member (see below)

If it was me I would remove the transmission cross member, drill the end of the crack and grind a V along the length of the crack and weld it up.

Be sure you have the updated transmission cross member. There are two styles and if yours is the old style and was tightened down too much that may have contributed to the cracking. The new style has a bushing in a slot that allows for the tranny to tightened to the bushing and the bushing to move back and forth in the slot to allow for frame flex.

What chuck said on the linkage and dampener.

On your other frame cracks, if you drill the end of the crack to keep it from lengthening and grind the crack into a V along the length AND "Get Good Penetration!!" of the weld then I see no need to weld both sides. They key being good thorough penetration.

 

[bender]

Jason,

Thanks for the info.

Craig