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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
That's what I used to call my grandfather. It's from the old B&W TV show 'The Real McCoys'. The grandfather on the show was called 'Señor Rumpa' by the Mexican farm hand.

Anyway.. I have this H1 140 now. Was my grandfather's. Never expected to end up with it. I'm pretty happy about it. Got lots of work to do on it. The engine has a busted rod and the rest of the tractor has over 50 years of dust and grime all over it. Hopefully the hydro pump and hydraulic deck lift work ok. No way to know yet.

At some point my uncle put a new tire on the front left. Not sure why he'd do that with a blown engine. Maybe so he could roll the tractor around. My brother said the back tires were flat but they are holding air no problem in the short term. I have some tires/wheels combos that will work anyway. Two pairs of 24x12-12 inchers and also a couple sets of 26x12-12's. And one pair of 28x14-15 ag style puller tires/wheels. They'd be somewhat oversized. That never stopped me before :D but I'm gonna keep this 140 as original as I can though.

My partially formulated plan is to swap the excellent 12 HP Kohler that's in my 1200 Cub Cadet now into the 140 and the original 140 Kohler will go on a shelf. It needs a rod and possibly other internal help. Gonna keep that engine too though and I was gonna sell the 1200 as a roller anyway.

I forget what's different about it but I have a new dash decal for a 140 in my parts cabinet. I think it's for a '71 140 but don't quote me on that till I check. Got it from Mark Smoker (JD140's pa) a dozen years or so ago. It's a repro. Mark had some made up by a decal place because they were NLA from mother deere. I think the difference is the ammeter gauge is on the opposite side to what they usually are (?). Will have a look today.
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The deck appears to be really good. Spindles turn fine by hand and there's no ominous noises. No pitting on the bottom side. Just some surface rust that will be easy to banish with my sand blaster. Haven't pulled the deck cover off yet so maybe some evil is lurking under there. We'll see.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm just wondering whether it was towed at some point without using the freewheel relief valve. The knob acted like it had never been used before. Had that snap-loose feel to it when I first started turning it. Like opening a jar of pickles. I didn't ask my brother yet but it had to get from the shed and up on the trailer somehow and it definitely wasn't driven with a broken rod in the K321. He said he used a winch to load it. That's another reason to use the shortblock from the 3 wheeler, for now anyway. I'd hate to put a bunch of cash into rebuilding the original K321 in the 140 only to realize the the hydro is pooched.

Nice!
Yeah I wouldn't worry about the hydro pump either.
I wouldn't worry about the hydro or the lift cylinder. They are pretty robust on these old gals. The old mallrat I had was in pretty sad shape, but with a running motor it worked okay.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The dash decal was actually a '68 only fenderpan decal that I got from Mark Smoker. The decal I was thinking of was actually for a 110 SF that had a one year only dash layout. Makes me wonder how accurate my other memories are.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The deck is actually mint, relatively speaking. Most decks this age are pretty beat up. Not this one though. I was pretty surprised by that. Some scaling on the bottom side but easily rectified with a light sand blasting. No pitting really. And the top of the deck that was under the cover is in great shape. Just a bit of 50 year old dry grass under there that looked like it had never been wet or even damp. No matting or griminess at all. It looked like dust bunnies made of grass. The blades are good enough to start mowing with. They're covered in surface rust but they feel like they were just sharpened.
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This grass would be excellent for a bird's nest.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Everything on this 140 looks to still be factory correct. Even the wiring harness. I don't recall ever buying a JD GT that hadn't had the wiring hacked up at least somewhat. I'm gonna have to get a grille but I don't see anything else missing. It's an H1 with no front hyd coupler but it has turning brakes. I had a '71 H1 140 with only the left side pedal.
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I put a set of 400 front wheels and tires on the H1 140 I had about 15 years ago just fer grins. I don't recall why I sold it but it was a dumbass thing to do.

My brother actually found grandpa's 140 right away but decided to surprise me when he delivered it. And he did too. I came in my driveway and it was sitting on his trailer. He had dropped it off earlier in the day.

I seem to remember that this tractor was missing in action at one point and you were hoping that you could find it. I'm really glad that you got possession of it.
.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It was kinda like the time Frank disappeared for several days then unexpectedly came home. From my point of view this 140 disappeared for 50 years though. I'm really out of touch with 140 lore. It's somewhat like starting over again learning about them. Gonna have to cram like I used to the night before exams because I'm determined to get this 140 up and running and mowing soon. It's gonna be a great feeling. Grandpa was the last to use it ~50 years ago so even the grass I found under the deck cover is somewhat nostalgic to me. I need to go over the whole thing and check everything. Half a century is a long time for something to hibernate without at least some deterioration to moving parts. Steering is really stiff from lack of use. I had a 212 like that. All the moving parts were crammed with dry old grease. It steered excellent when I was done though. Felt like a 318 w/PS. My 214 steers pretty well now too after some work but not like that 212 did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Edit: I was making some pretty broad (and very optimistic) assumptions when I started working on this 140 a few weeks ago. I am better informed now but I expect more surprises are in store. There always are.

I finished prepping the 14 HP Kohler that's going in the 140. Gonna paint it today. I removed the hood and grille supports on the 140 yesterday. I'm gonna pull the engine today if time permits. If not tomorrow will be along fairly quickly. It's like time is speeding up more and more as I get older. Seriously. It's really flying by.

I used coarse steel wool to clean up the surface rust on the inside of the tin. Then I shot it with flat black.
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I wire wheeled the external side of the flywheel shroud down to bare metal yesterday. Very minor but there's a little bit of pitting. I'll use some glazing putty for that. It's not the original shroud from the K321 that was in the 3 wheeler. That one has some damage around the starter snout opening. Could be fixed but I have two spare shrouds that are fine. I also have a chrome one from a puller tractor. Not using it on this engine though. Not appropriate for the 140's history. The puller tractor is where I got the huge 28x14-15 shaved ag tires and wheels I have stashed away too. The shroud I'm using is from a 214 K321 and has the opening to mount the rectifier. Also the hole for the oval shaped hose to the air filter cover. But I'm gonna use it anyway because I decided to leave everything on the original K321. I was gonna transfer everything from it to the 14 HP I'm actually using but I changed my mind. I'm just gonna pull the original engine and store it as is. Not taking anything off it at all. That way if I rebuild it I'll have everything to put it back the way it was.
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Next the gas tank comes off, then the driveshaft gets disconnected and the bolts holding the engine down come out. Plus the throttle and choke cables and the wiring plug have to be disconnected. Dad bypassed the original wiring plug when he mounted the K321 I'm using on the 3 wheeler. Don't know why. Gotta do some testing to see if the original connector still works properly and if it does I can just use the original 140 plug. If not I'll have to figure out what's wrong and deal with it. I didn't use the 3 wheeler enough to know if the stator was charging the battery.
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I have what looks like the same muffler and pipe config on the 12 HP Kohler that was in dad's LT 120. It connects differently though. It uses studs and is bolted on. The pipe on the original K321 in the 140 is threaded and also clamped, I might be able to use the LT120 muffler and leave the exhaust on the original 140 engine alone but it has a couple holes in it. Odd looking holes actually. There was no rust around them at all when I cleaned the muffler up. This engine has a good 12V PTO clutch on it too. The pulley is too small for a 140 though so I'd have to swap it for the one on the 140 now. This engine ran like crap so I put a new clone carb on it a few years ago and it starts and runs good now.
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Don't know whose 140 this is but it's definitely the wrong green, incl the engine. Which brings me to a poser I have for you 140 aficionados: did any year or model have a green engine? Just curious. Not gonna do that. Mine will be black same as the original K321.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I did mine black yesterday. I might go with a green engine if I do a complete tear down some day, in which case Tom would have to modify his personal motto. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
JD muffler paint on the fins and head. Just a couple light cosmetic coats. Won't be able to see much of the fins when the tin is all back on but it would bug me to know they were scruffy looking. I wire wheeled the fins first with my cordless drill. I have one wire wheel that has been used enough that it's thin with not a lot of wires left. It was perfect for getting in between the fins.

The block was done with med gloss black. I used to use JD's med gloss black but the Home Hardware store paint is exactly the same now (Valspar) and literally costs half what the Deere paint does. Not a hard decision.

Flywheel shroud and other tinwork was done with med gloss too but the tin and the block have a different shine to them. The tin ended up almost flat black looking but still glossy enough to look different than the flywheel itself, which is done flat black. I really like the contrast. Different shades and glossiness of black paint on an engine make it look factory, to me anyway. I do the same thing under vehicles hoods too.

This kind of work is close to being my favourite thing to do in the shop. I could spend hours cleaning something up and repainting it. On this particular do-over I used Simple Green, paint stripper, sandpaper, coarse/fine steel wool, scotch pads, carb cleaner and lots of compressed air. I sometimes lightly sandblast engine tin too but it didn't really need it this time. I used Kleen Flow on the carb and it's really clean on the outside now but it still looks used. That's ok though. It's not a restoration and it's a really good carb. I have painted carbs the engine color before with pretty good results. Didn't do it this time though. I had to use paint stripper to make the crank vent hose look right. It was half red and pretty scruffy looking. Each end is sized and shaped differently to suit the use so I wanted to keep the hose. I used some steel wool and elbow grease on it and presto. I put new clamps on each end too. Actually the end that goes on the valve cover isn't new, it's been wire wheeled to raw metal and clear coated so it looks right. It's little things like that that make or break a good refurb (in my eyes).
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The flywheel shroud looks the same as the flat black on flywheel in this pic but not in person. It's actually glossier.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I was gonna use the spare starter I had stashed in my JD parts cabinet but it turned out to the wrong one for this engine. That particular starter is positioned below the two 3/8" mounting bolts and all of the spare shrouds I have are for starters that are mounted above the bolts. So for now I'm gonna have to use the starter off the 12 HP Ford LT 120 engine I have stashed in the shop. It's blue so I'll be stripping and painting it. The back side of it is scruffy looking but the rest is pretty good. The starter that won't work on the 140 engine will be ok to use on the 'Ford' engine if I don't put the flywheel shroud on. So at least I can run the engine if I want.
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Here's some other engines I've refurbished. I had lots of fun doing them too. This 1971 110 SF is the first one I ever bought. Got it in Toledo for a 100 bucks on flea bay. I eventually sold it to a WFM guy in Dundas-Grimsby area near Niagara Falls.
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This is it when I picked it up. Paid a 100 bucks on eBay for it. (EDIT: for some reason a few pics have disappeared in this thread).
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A 212 that I completely tore apart, repaired and refurbished from the bottom up. Sold it for 1800 bucks back in the mid-2000's and used the money to buy a 400. I only paid $300 for the 212 and had about $200 bucks in the makeover. So I made 1300 bucks on it but if I factor in the time it took me to do it I probably didn't even make minimum wage. That was ok though. Any time you get paid to do stuff you'd likely do for free it's a win.
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The day after I finished the engine bay I stood there looking down at it in amazement, I had a hard time believing it was actually me that did it. I had never pulled off that level of engine prep and paintwork before and I never did it again either. Always some sort of flaw or mistake but not in this case.
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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Thanks Tom. That's the sort of encouragement I like. I don't need any fanfare. Just a few positive comments from some fellow JD enthusiasts and I'm happy.

As it turns out I can't use the K321 I just refurb'd. Didn't do enough due diligence before I started prepping and painting it. For one thing it's too tall. The crankshaft is about an inch higher than the one in the original K321 in the 140 now. The extra height is due to a taller oil pan. I seem to recall something about the oil dipper being bigger on the later K301/K321 and K341's. Don't quote me on that though. Also the 14 HP I was gonna use has the dipstick in a location that won't fit inside the 140 frame rails. I'm actually perfectly fine not using it on the 140. Who doesn't like having an excellent looking and running 14 HP Kohler sitting in the dugout? I also happen to have a 214 with a 10 HP engine in it. The K321 broke a rod before I bought it and Dad used some of the parts off it for the 12 HP Kohler in old Shiny. I wasn't planning on fixing up the 214 but maybe I will now. Eventually. My to-do list is already pretty long.

The 12 HP in the 1200 CC won't work either. (Same height issue as the K321. Edit: I was wrong. The 1200 CC engine actually has a sump style pan. There are other issues with using it though). But as I mentioned on the previous page I also have a spare 12 HP Kohler that would work. It's virtually identical to the 14 HP in the 140 now. Just a couple less wheaties. The oil pan, dipstick location, exhaust, crank shaft height are all the same. It even has a 12V PTO clutch on it same as the 140. It worked fine last time it was used. The muffler/exhaust is the same too. Not sure if the tailpipe would line up with the hole on the 140 though. My brother says dad mentioned it had a knock. I didn't notice that when I had it running. Will have to fire it up again to see if it's ok. Dad put an oil pan on it because the original pan was integrated with the LT 120's frame. If it actually had a knock I don't know if he dealt with it or not.

I also have grandpa's old model 71 Cub Cadet. It spent the winter sitting in the box on my '50 Ford pickup again. It seems to like that. It apparently smoked a lot when dad had it running after he got it but that was about 20 years ago. If I want to be able to run the engine once in a while the old boy said just do a light hone and install some new rings and that should be good enough since it'll never see any serious run time again. Other than that the little Cub will stay the way it was when grandpa got off it the last time. It sat in front of the 140 I just acquired in his old garden shed for about half a century. Dad acquired the CC from my uncle (his kid brother) around 2002 or so. My uncle wouldn't give up the 140 though.

Grandpa was accident prone. That's who I got my klutziness from so I bet there's still some traces of his DNA on both tractors and I will no doubt be adding some of my own. :D
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Nice looking motor repaint Mr. Army (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
It really is time consuming. It's perfectly fine to just clean an engine up and shoot it the same all over without getting too fussy but I really enjoy doing a thorough job.
I was thinking,… man I wish I had the time to properly do a motor like that. I will someday. Not in the cards now though. But yes Army, looks great!👍🏻👍🏻😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Good heads up. Thx Drafter. My 140 has quite a bit of sloppiness in the steering. Takes a half turn of the wheel before the front wheels start moving. Feels like linkage and ball joints need work.

Pay attention to the big steering pivot down below the engine/DS. It has a zerk, but was often neglected. So the "cones" can wear funny. If sitting, that pivot could dry up pretty easy too.

Easy way to check it, is to get down on the left side, and while wiggling the steering wheel, watch that pivot between the side panel and the engine. You can see if it goes up and down before left or right.

This assumes that all the ball joints are in decent shape. There are 4 on the axle, and 2 up on the drag link.

Go do some reading on the CC/Kohler pulling site for pointers on the steering box.

The old 140's steer pretty well if everything is in good shape, but there's a lot to go wrong and get sloppy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I just recalled the front tires on the 140 I sold years ago were 20's. Now I just have to remember where I got them. Trying to remember shlt is one of my hobbies.
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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Edit: I tried finding some pics of Señor Rumpa but I kept getting distracted by other pics, which I have a shltload of.
Got any shots of Senor Rumpa?
Some more engine pics..

K532 in my blower 400. Tore it apart down to the shortblock and did a prep and paint. Used green for the tin. The cam gear crumbled not long after this pic was taken though. Dammit.
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A K301 I did years ago. Other than the dipstick it was painted correctly. According to my own research anyway. I always do the dipsticks handles yellow so they stand out.
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I do V8's too. (y)
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Not a complete tear down. Just cleaned the engine up and painted the red flywheel shroud green. That's all it needed. It starts and runs sweet. Couldn't ask for better.
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The K582 I put in my restored 400. Spent quite a bit of time making it look good. Didn't need any mechanical work at all. It's (still) a real gem.
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