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I wouldn't worry about the hydro or the lift cylinder. They are pretty robust on these old gals. The old mallrat I had was in pretty sad shape, but with a running motor it worked okay.
 

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The mall rat had sat long enough there was no pressure at all in anything. And I did tow it (slowly), to the back yard. Just keep your fingers crossed, I bet it will be fine.

Plus I have no idea what happened to it before I got it. It could have been towed, it definitely had some poop on it from sitting in a barn. :LOL:

:)
 

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Pay attention to the big steering pivot down below the engine/DS. It has a zerk, but was often neglected. So the "cones" can wear funny. If sitting, that pivot could dry up pretty easy too.

Easy way to check it, is to get down on the left side, and while wiggling the steering wheel, watch that pivot between the side panel and the engine. You can see if it goes up and down before left or right.

This assumes that all the ball joints are in decent shape. There are 4 on the axle, and 2 up on the drag link.

Go do some reading on the CC/Kohler pulling site for pointers on the steering box.

The old 140's steer pretty well if everything is in good shape, but there's a lot to go wrong and get sloppy.
 

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What you guys need is a old fashioned hammer impact. It'll remove those Japanese MC screws that were made of cheese. They will be about the only thing to remove those stubborn fan screws. I have one from Snap-on and it's one of my MVP tools. You can get a decent one at HF or the Canadian version.


Get some good bits for it.
 

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I like a "drilling hammer" or an engineers hammer. Usually the drilling hammer will work anything loose.

And yeah, gloves and a pair of safety glasses.
 

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I have a picture somewhere of all the nuts I used, trying to weld them on to broken turbo studs. I got all the studs out, but I used an embarrassing number of nuts trying...:ROFLMAO:

I need to get a set of the LH drills. I've never had any, so I've never used them. And you can't just run out and get some locally.

I had to "drill" through a broken drill bit, to get an exhaust stud out of my sons Ranger last fall. That was super fun. (Dremel, pointed carbide cutter, worked pretty well, for ~$10)
 

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I was looking at the pulling site (Kohlers) and you can convert a wide base, but I really have no idea why you would. (They say to fit it in an older Cub puller, but I'm still missing why you would do that other than the "I can" reasoning. Just get a narrow base block and go.

If you have a decent machine shop available, they can bore that one. Pull head and let's see what the bore looks like, before you rule it out. These old girls are pretty tough, CI > aluminum rods. :)

The one I have in my 140, was out of the mall rat, it was frozen pretty solid with mice "Stuff" and rusty/crusty and nasty looking, but it works fine now. :D
 

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Thanks Drafter(y). The K321 in the 140 has a pulley like that at the flywheel end. It's a single pulley though and appears to be intended for a starter/generator.
I think that pulley is also for an old timey rope starter... 🤪 (hilarious to even contemplate)
 

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You can see here that the base of the block itself is too wide though. Can't bolt a sump style oil pan to it which means the engine will sit too high for the driveshaft in the back and the PTO pulley in the front. I don't see how puller guys could modify it to work. And like you said, why would they?
View attachment 282921
The pics on the website show the block in a huge bandsaw cutting it down... Then you have to weld something... It looks pretty daunting. And again, I'm kind if stumped as to why, but if I had to guess, you can probably get .34 extra HP out of a converted block (And have a winter project) :ROFLMAO:
 
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Army,

Are those the remains of balance gears in the pan of your broken engine? I am not at all familiar with the single cylinder engine internals...

Chuck
Yep, that looks like half of one anyway... (I made mine into a yard art Burrow Owl, when I took them out). :)
 

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Army, when you get the fender pan off, check around the freewheel valves for signs of leakage. Also, there are also a trunnion seal on each side of the transaxle that can leak. I don't think either should empty it though, just make it messy.
 
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The best thing for Beldan cables and the solid units on our Deere's is to remove the cable and grease it. That will also allow you too apply some brake cleaner to the housing.

Just straighten the end on the push/pull cable and remove, clean, re-grease and re-bend the end.

If you can't remove it, take it out and hang it like @In The Weeds says, but rubber band a small ziplock around the end and fill with the lube of your choice. Leve hanging until the ziplock is empty. (maybe a pan under to catch any extra that drips)

I like to braze the ends of stranded cables, so you can mess around with them, and not have the end get all frayed (so you can stuff it back in the housing).
 

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Your prediction was spot on Drafter(y). I worked the 140 fairly hard for an hour with my stoneboat and the hydro worked A1. Needs some adjustments but don't we all.
Awesome! These things are pretty robust. The Dana 30 pumpkins should be the give away... :p

Take a look at the long roll pin in the final tranny lever (the one the weird spring goes around). Mine was broke in 2, lengthwise. So it looked fine, but gave some slop.

You have the ball joint (connected to the eccentric) where you can make some fine adjustments, and the metal "guide" that the hydro lever moves in (on the pedestal) will move a bit back and forth. Not much, but enough that if you are real close, that it can make the difference.
 
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