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Pay attention to the big steering pivot down below the engine/DS. It has a zerk, but was often neglected. So the "cones" can wear funny. If sitting, that pivot could dry up pretty easy too.

Easy way to check it, is to get down on the left side, and while wiggling the steering wheel, watch that pivot between the side panel and the engine. You can see if it goes up and down before left or right.

This assumes that all the ball joints are in decent shape. There are 4 on the axle, and 2 up on the drag link.

Go do some reading on the CC/Kohler pulling site for pointers on the steering box.

The old 140's steer pretty well if everything is in good shape, but there's a lot to go wrong and get sloppy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Edit: I was making some pretty broad (and very optimistic) assumptions when I started working on this 140 a few weeks ago. I am better informed now but I expect more surprises are in store. There always are.

I finished prepping the 14 HP Kohler that's going in the 140. Gonna paint it today. I removed the hood and grille supports on the 140 yesterday. I'm gonna pull the engine today if time permits. If not tomorrow will be along fairly quickly. It's like time is speeding up more and more as I get older. Seriously. It's really flying by.

I used coarse steel wool to clean up the surface rust on the inside of the tin. Then I shot it with flat black.
Automotive tire Plant Road surface Wood Bumper

I wire wheeled the external side of the flywheel shroud down to bare metal yesterday. Very minor but there's a little bit of pitting. I'll use some glazing putty for that. It's not the original shroud from the K321 that was in the 3 wheeler. That one has some damage around the starter snout opening. Could be fixed but I have two spare shrouds that are fine. I also have a chrome one from a puller tractor. Not using it on this engine though. Not appropriate for the 140's history. The puller tractor is where I got the huge 28x14-15 shaved ag tires and wheels I have stashed away too. The shroud I'm using is from a 214 K321 and has the opening to mount the rectifier. Also the hole for the oval shaped hose to the air filter cover. But I'm gonna use it anyway because I decided to leave everything on the original K321. I was gonna transfer everything from it to the 14 HP I'm actually using but I changed my mind. I'm just gonna pull the original engine and store it as is. Not taking anything off it at all. That way if I rebuild it I'll have everything to put it back the way it was.
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Next the gas tank comes off, then the driveshaft gets disconnected and the bolts holding the engine down come out. Plus the throttle and choke cables and the wiring plug have to be disconnected. Dad bypassed the original wiring plug when he mounted the K321 I'm using on the 3 wheeler. Don't know why. Gotta do some testing to see if the original connector still works properly and if it does I can just use the original 140 plug. If not I'll have to figure out what's wrong and deal with it. I didn't use the 3 wheeler enough to know if the stator was charging the battery.
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I have what looks like the same muffler and pipe config on the 12 HP Kohler that was in dad's LT 120. It connects differently though. It uses studs and is bolted on. The pipe on the original K321 in the 140 is threaded and also clamped, I might be able to use the LT120 muffler and leave the exhaust on the original 140 engine alone but it has a couple holes in it. Odd looking holes actually. There was no rust around them at all when I cleaned the muffler up. This engine has a good 12V PTO clutch on it too. The pulley is too small for a 140 though so I'd have to swap it for the one on the 140 now. This engine ran like crap so I put a new clone carb on it a few years ago and it starts and runs good now.
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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Congrats on the 140. I remember reading about it in your farmall post. I'm glad to see it went to the right home. I can only imagine how great you feel having something so sentimental and a way to always remember your grandfather.
 

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Nice work Senor Armstrong...seeing that tank shot flashed me back to my almost-first days with JD garden tractors. I bought a rag case 110 at a show, not knowing what I was doing or buying...just full of enthusiasm. That led me to learn about the 140...and I found one shortly after I let the 110 go. I liked the 140 but couldn't deal with that tank location right between the battery and hot engine...made me real nervous refueling after working it a while, but mine didn't have the filler/spit cup. If you got clumsy you had go-juice everywhere. Then I discovered the 200, 300, and 400 series tractors and their slightly larger size/accommodations...so I let the 140 go, too. Got any shots of Senor Rumpa?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Don't know whose 140 this is but it's definitely the wrong green, incl the engine. Which brings me to a poser I have for you 140 aficionados: did any year or model have a green engine? Just curious. Not gonna do that. Mine will be black same as the original K321.
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Don't know whose 140 this is but it's definitely the wrong green, incl the engine. Which brings me to a poser I have for you 140 aficionados: did any year or model have a green engine? Just curious. Not gonna do that. Mine will be black same as the original K321.
View attachment 282463
None that I know of. My '73 has black engine.
 
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Yes, 1968 and earlier 1969 140's had green engines. Mid year 1969 they switched to black.
 

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I believe the saying is 'Once you black you never go back', I am pretty certain is pertaining to engine colors :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I did mine black yesterday. I might go with a green engine if I do a complete tear down some day, in which case Tom would have to modify his personal motto. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
JD muffler paint on the fins and head. Just a couple light cosmetic coats. Won't be able to see much of the fins when the tin is all back on but it would bug me to know they were scruffy looking. I wire wheeled the fins first with my cordless drill. I have one wire wheel that has been used enough that it's thin with not a lot of wires left. It was perfect for getting in between the fins.

The block was done with med gloss black. I used to use JD's med gloss black but the Home Hardware store paint is exactly the same now (Valspar) and literally costs half what the Deere paint does. Not a hard decision.

Flywheel shroud and other tinwork was done with med gloss too but the tin and the block have a different shine to them. The tin ended up almost flat black looking but still glossy enough to look different than the flywheel itself, which is done flat black. I really like the contrast. Different shades and glossiness of black paint on an engine make it look factory, to me anyway. I do the same thing under vehicles hoods too.

This kind of work is close to being my favourite thing to do in the shop. I could spend hours cleaning something up and repainting it. On this particular do-over I used Simple Green, paint stripper, sandpaper, coarse/fine steel wool, scotch pads, carb cleaner and lots of compressed air. I sometimes lightly sandblast engine tin too but it didn't really need it this time. I used Kleen Flow on the carb and it's really clean on the outside now but it still looks used. That's ok though. It's not a restoration and it's a really good carb. I have painted carbs the engine color before with pretty good results. Didn't do it this time though. I had to use paint stripper to make the crank vent hose look right. It was half red and pretty scruffy looking. Each end is sized and shaped differently to suit the use so I wanted to keep the hose. I used some steel wool and elbow grease on it and presto. I put new clamps on each end too. Actually the end that goes on the valve cover isn't new, it's been wire wheeled to raw metal and clear coated so it looks right. It's little things like that that make or break a good refurb (in my eyes).
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The flywheel shroud looks the same as the flat black on flywheel in this pic but not in person. It's actually glossier.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I was gonna use the spare starter I had stashed in my JD parts cabinet but it turned out to the wrong one for this engine. That particular starter is positioned below the two 3/8" mounting bolts and all of the spare shrouds I have are for starters that are mounted above the bolts. So for now I'm gonna have to use the starter off the 12 HP Ford LT 120 engine I have stashed in the shop. It's blue so I'll be stripping and painting it. The back side of it is scruffy looking but the rest is pretty good. The starter that won't work on the 140 engine will be ok to use on the 'Ford' engine if I don't put the flywheel shroud on. So at least I can run the engine if I want.
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Here's some other engines I've refurbished. I had lots of fun doing them too. This 1971 110 SF is the first one I ever bought. Got it in Toledo for a 100 bucks on flea bay. I eventually sold it to a WFM guy in Dundas-Grimsby area near Niagara Falls.
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This is it when I picked it up. Paid a 100 bucks on eBay for it. (EDIT: for some reason a few pics have disappeared in this thread).
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A 212 that I completely tore apart, repaired and refurbished from the bottom up. Sold it for 1800 bucks back in the mid-2000's and used the money to buy a 400. I only paid $300 for the 212 and had about $200 bucks in the makeover. So I made 1300 bucks on it but if I factor in the time it took me to do it I probably didn't even make minimum wage. That was ok though. Any time you get paid to do stuff you'd likely do for free it's a win.
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The day after I finished the engine bay I stood there looking down at it in amazement, I had a hard time believing it was actually me that did it. I had never pulled off that level of engine prep and paintwork before and I never did it again either. Always some sort of flaw or mistake but not in this case.
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Nice looking motor repaint Mr. Army (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks Tom. That's the sort of encouragement I like. I don't need any fanfare. Just a few positive comments from some fellow JD enthusiasts and I'm happy.

As it turns out I can't use the K321 I just refurb'd. Didn't do enough due diligence before I started prepping and painting it. For one thing it's too tall. The crankshaft is about an inch higher than the one in the original K321 in the 140 now. The extra height is due to a taller oil pan. I seem to recall something about the oil dipper being bigger on the later K301/K321 and K341's. Don't quote me on that though. Also the 14 HP I was gonna use has the dipstick in a location that won't fit inside the 140 frame rails. I'm actually perfectly fine not using it on the 140. Who doesn't like having an excellent looking and running 14 HP Kohler sitting in the dugout? I also happen to have a 214 with a 10 HP engine in it. The K321 broke a rod before I bought it and Dad used some of the parts off it for the 12 HP Kohler in old Shiny. I wasn't planning on fixing up the 214 but maybe I will now. Eventually. My to-do list is already pretty long.

The 12 HP in the 1200 CC won't work either. Same height issue as the K321. But.. as I mentioned on the previous page I also have a spare 12 HP Kohler that would work. It's virtually identical to the 14 HP in the 140 now. Just a couple less wheaties. The oil pan, dipstick location, exhaust, crank shaft height are all the same. It even has a 12V PTO clutch on it same as the 140. It worked fine last time it was used. The muffler/exhaust is the same too. Not sure if the tailpipe would line up with the hole on the 140 though. My brother says dad mentioned it had a knock. I didn't notice that when I had it running. Will have to fire it up again to see if it's ok. Dad put an oil pan on it because the original pan was integrated with the LT 120's frame. If it actually had a knock I don't know if he dealt with it or not.

I also have grandpa's old model 71 Cub Cadet. It spent the winter sitting in the box on my '50 Ford pickup again. It seems to like that. It apparently smoked a lot when dad had it running after he got it but that was about 20 years ago. If I want to be able to run the engine once in a while the old boy said just do a light hone and install some new rings and that should be good enough since it'll never see any serious run time again. Other than that the little Cub will stay the way it was when grandpa got off it the last time. It sat in front of the 140 I just acquired in his old garden shed for about half a century. Dad acquired the CC from my uncle (his kid brother) around 2002 or so. My uncle wouldn't give up the 140 though.

Grandpa was accident prone. That's who I got my klutziness from so I bet there's still some traces of his DNA on both tractors and I will no doubt be adding some of my own. :D
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Nice looking motor repaint Mr. Army (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
It really is time consuming. It's perfectly fine to just clean an engine up and shoot it the same all over without getting too fussy but I really enjoy doing a thorough job.
I was thinking,… man I wish I had the time to properly do a motor like that. I will someday. Not in the cards now though. But yes Army, looks great!👍🏻👍🏻😎
 

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So do you Joe. That 330 and the 318 are gorgeous. Nicely done indeed.
Thanks Army. I bought the 318 after it had been painted. I put new tires on it, washed the underside, pulled engine and decarboned the heads & pistons, adjusted valves, cleaned the carb, new fuel lines and new firewall insulation from
John Lang. I have the deck for it that has been painted.

I did do the restoration on the 330. Painted it with rattle cans. It took a lot of work to get looking like it does now. I lost the sight in my left eye about a year before I bought it. Had some doubts about being able to finish it, but it turned out pretty good
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Good heads up. Thx Drafter. My 140 has quite a bit of sloppiness in the steering. Takes a half turn of the wheel before the front wheels start moving. Feels like linkage and ball joints need work.

Pay attention to the big steering pivot down below the engine/DS. It has a zerk, but was often neglected. So the "cones" can wear funny. If sitting, that pivot could dry up pretty easy too.

Easy way to check it, is to get down on the left side, and while wiggling the steering wheel, watch that pivot between the side panel and the engine. You can see if it goes up and down before left or right.

This assumes that all the ball joints are in decent shape. There are 4 on the axle, and 2 up on the drag link.

Go do some reading on the CC/Kohler pulling site for pointers on the steering box.

The old 140's steer pretty well if everything is in good shape, but there's a lot to go wrong and get sloppy.
 
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