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I like a "drilling hammer" or an engineers hammer. Usually the drilling hammer will work anything loose.

And yeah, gloves and a pair of safety glasses.
 

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I have a very old and trusted hammer-on-it Impact Driver, very handy tool! Someone recently asked me if there was any tool I did not own, I said Plasma Cutter. There's a bunch of others but that was the first one to come to mind.

Left-handed drill bits are handy for when you have already buggered up the top of the screw. You can also use a die grinder to cut a slot to get fresh meat on the screw head.
 

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I have a picture somewhere of all the nuts I used, trying to weld them on to broken turbo studs. I got all the studs out, but I used an embarrassing number of nuts trying...:ROFLMAO:

I need to get a set of the LH drills. I've never had any, so I've never used them. And you can't just run out and get some locally.

I had to "drill" through a broken drill bit, to get an exhaust stud out of my sons Ranger last fall. That was super fun. (Dremel, pointed carbide cutter, worked pretty well, for ~$10)
 

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I had to "drill" through a broken drill bit,
Ouch, that is not fun!! I am lucky because I have a local old-time hardware store that has a great selection of tools, drill bits, taps, etc. And I can buy a left-handed bits there. Yes, those bits are expensive. That store has been in business since 1945 in the same family, it is truly a treasure so I do what I can to keep them in business. They also have a Lawn and Garden store in a separate building and that one is of equal importance to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
I am getting re-educated on 140's. I used to know more about them. Been a while though.

I have an antique but mint set of hammer type impacts like that. They're still in great shape because the heads in the kit are too big for most purposes. I just drilled out the bolts. One came out no problem with an EZ Out. The 2nd one broke the EZ Out like it was made of cast tin and it was the only one I had that was the right size. So I drilled the rest out then peeled the heads off with a small cold chisel. I wasn't worried about re-using the bolt holes because the screen wasn't going back on. It was all for naught though. What I thought was a removable stub shaft is actually integrated into the flywheel. Not gonna get into swapping flywheels or modifying the driveshaft setup on the 140. So I have a good K301 that won't work for any purpose I currently have. It will be sitting on the shelf with the 14 HP I just did the makeover on.

EDIT: the K301 in this pic will be stored too. It's too tall for the 140 same as the K321 that's out of the the 3 wheeler. Upon further review I'm making too many assumptions about these vintage Kohlers. There are a lot more variations between them than I realized. The K301 in the CC is actually a sump style pan and might actually work in the 140. The flywheel end is questionable though.

The 1200 Cub Cadet is gonna get sold as a roller. Not giving the Kohler up. Nobody wanted to buy the whole thing for a measly $450 last summer with the engine and the mower in excellent working order. So screw it.
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What you guys need is a old fashioned hammer impact. It'll remove those Japanese MC screws that were made of cheese. They will be about the only thing to remove those stubborn fan screws. I have one from Snap-on and it's one of my MVP tools. You can get a decent one at HF or the Canadian version.


Get some good bits for it.
 

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Army, maybe you need to get distracted and go off and do something else that you can complete just to get your mo-jo back in tune. You will slay this beast, you know you will!
 

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What you guys need is a old fashioned hammer impact. It'll remove those Japanese MC screws that were made of cheese. They will be about the only thing to remove those stubborn fan screws. I have one from Snap-on and it's one of my MVP tools. You can get a decent one at HF or the Canadian version.


Get some good bits for it.
I have the same tool from snap-on. It comes out every time I have to remove screws in metal.

Left-handed drill bits are handy for when you have already buggered up the top of the screw. You can also use a die grinder to cut a slot to get fresh meat on the screw head.
Yep left handed are nice, sometimes you get lucky and they will grab and take the screw out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I'm good Tom. This is fun to me. (y)

I notched the screw head a bit with a sharp little chisel then used the notch to tap the screw head to the left. All three came off easily, no doubt because most of the screw was gone.
 
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I agree completely, fun challenges. Kinda like writing computer programs, you are presented with a challenge and you meet the challenge. Same thing with persistent screws, we cannot let them beat us!
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Thx for the correction(y). I must have been thinking of the 420 he put an EFI Kohler in. Unless that's not an accurate memory either. One thing I know for sure is Mike was one of the engines that powered WFM in the earlier era. Be nice if he dropped by some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Ontario guys can get the same paint I used at a HH (Home Hardware) store. Their paint line is a significantly less expensive alternative to Tremclad but it seems to be every bit as good for quality. It's just as good as JD paint too. I picked up a can of JD muffler paint one day then stopped on the way home to get some med gloss black at HH and it was literally half the price. HH didn't have the muffler paint I wanted or I'd have got that there too.
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Minnesota Vikings fan.
 
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
At first glance it looks like I didn't do a very good job drilling out the screws. I drilled in the exact center of the Philips heads though. I also took my time and held the drill as squarely as humanly possible. The holes apparently weren't drilled accurately at the factory to start with. Only one was actually centered.
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Anybody got a pic of the flywheel on a 140 K321 stripped down so I can see what I'm dealing with? Shaft size, stub, bolt configuration etc. I'm finding enough differences between the one lung K301/K321/K341 engines I wouldn't be all that surprised to see one with a flywheel that an airplane propeller bolts up to. I can't believe how much I've forgotten about those engines since I started focusing on the twins. I'm actually enjoying the refresher course though. Getting up to speed again is going easier than it did back when I had no knowledge about them at all.
 
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There definitely are a lot of different K series configurations. Just on the flywheel, there's the 10 amp and 15 amp versions on the back side, and 2 and 4 bolt on the front. I came across one flywheel that had a 4 bolt configuration, but the bolt circle (square) was something like 1/4 - 1/2" larger. Couldn't really see the difference until you tried to bolt the 140 drive hub to it.
 
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