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Pretty close Tom. I think the 140 screen is 8.5".
I would think you could fabricate an effective screen to exactly fit your application without too much difficulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I realized mine is different after I posted the example pic above of the makeover on that 140 Kohler. The screen in the sample pic has the driveshaft coupler sticking out the back of it but mine encloses it all. Here.. I'll post a pic of what I actually have instead of a 1000 words. ;)
I would think you could fabricate an effective screen to exactly fit your application without too much difficulty.
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Here's what it looks like on the inside. The cam, pistons, valves and crank seem to be fine. If it wasn't for the hole in the block I might have been able to save the engine.
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No pic yet but I got the head and fins painted muffler black and the flywheel flat black yesterday. Gonna paint the engine block med gloss black today then get busy on the rest of the stuff I have to prep and paint. Since it's not gonna be the original engine I'm tempted once again to go green on the Ford K301 that's going in the 140. Not sure how much JD green I have vs med black though so maybe I'll use that as the deciding factor.

This is the oil pan from the K321 that was in the 140. It's the only pan I have that will work. Drain is on the bottom. The Ford Kohler has it on the side of the sump at the front and it interferes with sliding the engine forward enough to bolt it down.


Yet another pile of parts, and..
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..like I always say, a pile of parts is a pile of parts. As far as how I refinish them I mean.This is a 1990 EZGO Marathon. Or it was anyway. Its own momma wouldn't recognize it anymore.
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Another pile of parts. 5.0 V8 parts for my '96 Splash build.
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This aluminum 5.0 oil pan was pretty tedious to clean up along the lip where it bolts to the block. But it turned out nice. This is the sort of thing where the effort put into the prep is directly proportional to the finish.
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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
(y) Never tried to save a block like this before. Normally I'd just replace it but the history of this 140 is significantly affecting my thinking. So the original block will sit on the shelf in case I decide to do a full blown resto on the 140. I'll put it where I can easily see it and let it be a reminder of grandpa. I'm gonna keep his model 71 Cub Cadet and the 140 till I go to the big shop in the sky. I'll take them to the old folks home if they'll let me.
Army, a welder could fix that block. Welding or brazing a piece back into hole would not be that hard, a little time consuming, but original to machine and the one that fits with correct crankshaft.
On a related tangent.. This is a classic example of if you're gonna do a refurb on something, do it right or not at all. This CC transaxle looks terrible. It would sell better the way it was before. He wants $500. He might get a 1/3 of that. I wasn't able to sell my 1200 CC with a good deck, an excellent 12 HP Kohler and 3 speed transaxle for $450 last summer. I still have it. It's in pretty good shape and ready to mow. Pretty sure it was painted without even cleaning it up. Looks like he just grabbed a can of cheap gloss black and went at it.
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Discussion Starter · #147 · (Edited)
The Ford K301 is now black. JD muffler paint on the head and fins, flat black on the flywheel and med gloss black on the block. Same as the K321 I just did. There's still a bit of blue paint I missed around the crankshaft on this one. Gonna leave it like that so if somebody takes the engine apart some day there will be a clue it was on a Ford GT at one time. It's fun discovering things like that. If you already know something isn't original or you don't care I mean. I left the aluminum parts natural for contrast. Gotta make another gasket for the dipstick tube where it bolts to the block and/or use Permatex. Dipstick will be yellow as usual when I do a makeover. Still undecided on the tin color. I have two cans of green and two cans of med gloss black on the shelf so that's a tie.
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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
The balance on this flywheel looks like it was out by quite a bit to start with when it was fresh from the casting process. I did them flat back on the 2nd coat. Didn't spray a lot of paint on the flywheel. Just enough so the surface rust didn't bug me.
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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Pictures are always good for looking something over. For me anyway. I see things I don't when I'm looking at it directly. The flywheel shot is an example. I missed a few spots but they showed up easily after the first coat of black in the above pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 · (Edited)
Bought a couple cans of Kleen Flo yesterday. Wasn't on sale (dammit!) but I was out. The empty slot is where there's usually 3 or 4 cans of it. I love the darn stuff for cleaning an engine up. Took 1 can to do both Kohlers so not very spendy. Last time I bought some it was on sale for 4 bucks so it was dbl the price yesterday.
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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
I've had the bottom pulley/screen combo in this pic stashed away for decades. The top one is off the 140 engine. If the 140's screen wouldn't have worked I'd have modified the flat screen. Since the original screen is gonna do the job after all the spare will be going back on the shelf again.
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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Has anybody ever disassembled a 12V clutch and swapped pulleys? Looks like it would be a real PITA so likely not. Also the Ford Kohler clutch is a different design than the one on the 140 Kohler now so no doubt that alone eliminates the idea. But I'm still curious if anybody has tried to only change a pulley and leave the rest of the clutch as is.
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Discussion Starter · #153 · (Edited)
Not gonna get anything done on this today. Kids and their kids are coming home for the day. Yesterday I installed the dipstick tube on the block and painted the dipstick yellow. Made my own gasket and I was all thumbs when I did it. Gonna do it again. Note my patent pending Daddy Long Legs engine stand. It's just four 8" 3/8 bolts threaded into the block.

I always have a big impossible to miss Champion tag on an engine if there's no oil in it. I write NO OIL! on the other side with a big magic marker. I do that because I seized up an 8 HP Kohler one time and I really really don't wanna do it again. I had drained the oil and didn't have any to put back in. I made a mental note of it but of course I forgot. I came home after work the next day and jumped on the mower right away to get the grass done before we went somewhere and like the dumbass I am sometimes I didn't check the oil... I was half done the front yard before the engine started to chug and then it just quit like I shut it off. For reference purposes it took somewhere around 10 minutes to turn that Kohler into a boat anchor. I was really ticked off at myself :mad: but also amazed how long the engine went.

I mentioned my old Ford F1 in another thread and how the engine can run hot sometimes. Reminds me of the time about 50 years ago when my buddy intentionally blew up his dad's flathead V8 one day that was in a '51 Ford. The truck and the engine were going to the scrap yard so he drained the oil and water out of it and ran it till it suddenly stopped. It didn't make any loud noises or spew steam and oil smoke. The RPM just suddenly dropped like it was lugging down and then seized up. That poor old 239 took about the same amount of time as my Kohler did to die. I was cringing the whole time. :rolleyes::D
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The truck and the engine were going to the scrap yard so he drained the oil and water out of it and ran it till it suddenly stopped.
There is a term for that, something to do with Bricks as in 'brick on the gas pedal' ?? Brick-yarding maybe??
 
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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
I did a Tecumseh engine makeover years ago for an old snowblower. Never mounted it and the blower is long gone. Still got the engine though. I had hidden it on myself in the back of the yellow roll around lectern/cabinet I use to sit small engines on. Needs a new carb. Should work fine if that was done. Don't need it though.
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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
I did this old Clinton at the same time. I think it's a Clinton anyway. Might be a B&S. Anybody know? It was on the 2 wheel garden tractor my brother has and the engine is back on it now. He once worked up a 2 acre field with it and a 5 tooth cultivator. He kept going back to the elevated gas tank we had for the tractors to fill it up. He was 9 or 10 at the time
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I did this old Clinton at the same time. I think it's a Clinton anyway. Might be a B&S. Anybody know? It was on the 2 wheel garden tractor my brother has and the engine is back on it now. He once worked up a 2 acre field with it and a 5 tooth cultivator. He kept going back to the elevated gas tank we had for the tractors to fill it up. He was 9 or 10 at the time
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Looks like a B&S, but I'm no engine expert.
 
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Definitely a briggs 2 or 3 hp
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 · (Edited)
I cleaned up and re-installed the Ford tin on the block I'm using. It's going in the 140 for a test install/run before I re-do the original tin from the 140's K321 and put it on the Ford K301. If all is well I'll prep and paint the 140 tin and put it on. I also wanna test the hydro system before I do much more. Other than running it on a stand I've never used it. Gonna change the hydro fluid and filter before I connect the driveshaft. I don't have a 140 repair and service manual. Anybody know if a 140 uses the same hyd filter as the 400/420's? I'll find out when I take the old one off. I'm just wondering about it ahead of time.

So now I need a new gasket for the pan I'm using off the 140 K321. Thought I had one but nope. I do have 2 new pan gaskets for K532's though and 2 other new pan gaskets for.. (I just realized I don't actually know what they're for other than it's a small engine). I also have 4 new head gaskets for a K532. One set is reserved for the K532 I have that ate it's own cam gear and the other pair are spares.

The muffler cleaned up good. Gotta do the ends with a small wire wheel in my cordless plus some hand work after that, spray it with black heat paint and presto.. a 'new' muffler. I'm impressed by the condition it's in. On the outside anyway. I might fire the engine up and realize the muffler is junk ..but it's gonna look nice doing it :D. I had to make an exhaust adapter to clamp the 140 Kohler muffler to the Ford Kohler head. I'll post a pic but what I did was cut the nipple part off a pipe nipple that had a suitable thread size on one end for the exhaust port on the head. I left the threaded section plus about a 1/2" of the pipe nipple that had no threads.That's how the pipe on the original 140 Kohler is done.

After I cut the nipple off I had an moment of exasperation at myself. I only had two pipe nipple fittings in my stash (now I only have one) but a bunch short lengths of pipe the same diameter/threads I need for the muffler. I could have cut the end off one of the short chunks instead of using the pipe nipple. I still think like that when I work on something, even though I don't have to be as stingy about using parts these days. But there was a time in my life when I had to think everything through so I didn't waste anything or use something expensive to do a job something cheap would handle. And old habits die as hard as Bruce Willis.
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I put a new spark plug wire on the Ford Kohler that has been in my JD cabinet for about 15 years. It's for the left side plug on a K532 twin. It actually says Onan on the package though. Too much excess length so I'm gonna make a new plug wire from scratch.
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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
The oil pan (bottom right) turned out a dark charcoal grey. It was painted with med gloss black but the type of metal and surface sometimes affects the paint. In this case it's made of cast metal that had been caked with hard grease for half a century. I cleaned it thoroughly but there was still carbon residue embedded in it. Another coat of paint after the current one cures completely and it would look the same as med gloss black usually does, but I'm leaving it as is. Like I always say I like some contrast on an engine.
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