Hello all, I believe I have broken the shear pin/bolt on my 49 snow blower. I hit one hell of a rock in the side drive last night and it stopped working. I just have to get it into the garage this morning and check it out. We have winds of 45mph and it is snowing the hard frozen snow right now.
Question is what is the size of the shear bolt and what grade?
This is on my 318 and I believe that the shear bolt is supposed to be a 1/4 bolt.
Help me out here, am I right on this? and is it something that is easy to replace without taking the whole blower apart? I don't remember where it is since I've redone the blower. (Getting old I guess.....)
The extra shear bolts are usually mounted up on one of 5 holes in a bracket near where the chute angle bar attaches to the blower.
You can use just a regular 1/4-20 bolt. Just make sure it is NOT Class 5 or 8. Your standard cheapo class 3 at the hardware store will shear just fine. Make sure they are threaded all the way to the head of the bolt.
Chad, there is mixed opinion on using cheap bolts in shear functions. The problem is that "cheap" or ungraded bolts are relatively soft and will bend or deform without fully releasing. Grade 5 bolts are more brittle and will snap cleanly on impact. I think you'll find the shear bolts specified by most manufacturers are grade 5.
I am also with Robert and Stan with the grade five for shear bolts. I have seen some wild things happen when a soft shear bolt stretches instead of shearing. If the bolt is a simple bolt with no rings or weakened areas, try McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com), if not there are several websites to bulk order the bolts.
If you decide to go the grade five route, Mcmasters box of 100 runs about 4 or 5 bucks
Grade 5 Zinc-Plated Steel Hex Head Cap Screw 1/4"-20 Thread, 1" Long, Fully Threaded
In stock at $4.42 per Pack
This item is only sold in Packs of 100
Like a engineer showed us with rigging hardware, cheap hardware is only cheap once... If you can't find specs and grades for something, there is usually a reason for it...
Calling all 455 Guru's. I drove my 455 out of the garage 'cause I needed some space for another project. In the evening, I went out to move the 455 back into the garage and it stalled every time I released the brake. I was getting cold so I covered it with a tarp and came in for the night.
I sat down with TM1517 and read until I got a headache then jumped on here to read everything I could find on the 455 in this part of the forum. Thought I would throw the question out to you guys to see if this has happened to any of you.
For general info, this is a 1995 AWS with S/N: 0305XX.
Gonna dig into it tomorrow after I push it into the garage (the bod doesn't move too well when its freezing out). Gotta get it fixed 'cause we're due for up to 6" of the white stuff this weekend. I figure the problem is either the seat or brake safety switches or (heaven forbid) the PTO Switch.
Haven't received the PTO yet. It has been removed from the donor tractor but not packed & shipped.
Well, it's up and running! Don't know exactly what the problem was though. I pushed it into the garage just as it started snowing this evening. After checking the fuses and working the seat switch, the brake switch and the PTO switch several times each, it fired up and everything seemed to be normal. I figure there was some corrosion on some terminals within the switches and by working them they made contact. When the weather warms up I guess I'll grab the can of contact cleaner and the tube of no-ox and go thru all the electrical connections on this beast.
Bill, glad that worked out for you - I think your idea of of cleaning up the electrical connections is still a good one. I was having intermittent starting problems last summer, and they went away when I cleaned the connection to the starter solenoid.
I also keep an extra PTO switch on hand - had one die 3 or 4 years ago. The symptoms were bizarre and hard to diagnose, so I just went with my gut and replaced the switch and all is well.
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