Shear bolt on old 49 snow blower (round discharge)

GRP, it's a 1/4" x 1" shear bolt. Standing in front of the machine and looking at the auger it's at the left end of the auger. Be sure to use a shear bolt not regular hardware.

Thanks Stan, I also will look for extra ones that should be on the auger.

GRP

The extra shear bolts are usually mounted up on one of 5 holes in a bracket near where the chute angle bar attaches to the blower.

You can use just a regular 1/4-20 bolt. Just make sure it is NOT Class 5 or 8. Your standard cheapo class 3 at the hardware store will shear just fine. Make sure they are threaded all the way to the head of the bolt.

Chad, there is mixed opinion on using cheap bolts in shear functions. The problem is that "cheap" or ungraded bolts are relatively soft and will bend or deform without fully releasing. Grade 5 bolts are more brittle and will snap cleanly on impact. I think you'll find the shear bolts specified by most manufacturers are grade 5.

Thanks Stan, Wish my problem was a shear bolt. Going to cost me $90 to get new hubs and parts.

Got to love the Deere's.............


GRP

Chad, Stan is right on grade 5 shear bolt,that is Deere's spec's

Chad,
I am also with Robert and Stan with the grade five for shear bolts. I have seen some wild things happen when a soft shear bolt stretches instead of shearing. If the bolt is a simple bolt with no rings or weakened areas, try McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com), if not there are several websites to bulk order the bolts.

If you decide to go the grade five route, Mcmasters box of 100 runs about 4 or 5 bucks

Item: 92865A542
Grade 5 Zinc-Plated Steel Hex Head Cap Screw 1/4"-20 Thread, 1" Long, Fully Threaded
In stock at $4.42 per Pack
This item is only sold in Packs of 100

Like a engineer showed us with rigging hardware, cheap hardware is only cheap once... If you can't find specs and grades for something, there is usually a reason for it...

Calling all 455 Guru's. I drove my 455 out of the garage 'cause I needed some space for another project. In the evening, I went out to move the 455 back into the garage and it stalled every time I released the brake. I was getting cold so I covered it with a tarp and came in for the night.

I sat down with TM1517 and read until I got a headache then jumped on here to read everything I could find on the 455 in this part of the forum. Thought I would throw the question out to you guys to see if this has happened to any of you.

For general info, this is a 1995 AWS with S/N: 0305XX.

Bill, I've got a scans of the installation instructions so if find you need them send me an email. My 455's Rear PTO sat on the shelf for several years before I recently installed it.

Bob,

You have mail.

Bill

Well, it's up and running! Don't know exactly what the problem was though. I pushed it into the garage just as it started snowing this evening. After checking the fuses and working the seat switch, the brake switch and the PTO switch several times each, it fired up and everything seemed to be normal. I figure there was some corrosion on some terminals within the switches and by working them they made contact. When the weather warms up I guess I'll grab the can of contact cleaner and the tube of no-ox and go thru all the electrical connections on this beast.

Bill

I second the seat switch. Hope that it is because the is the easiest to remedy!

Bill, glad that worked out for you - I think your idea of of cleaning up the electrical connections is still a good one. I was having intermittent starting problems last summer, and they went away when I cleaned the connection to the starter solenoid.

I also keep an extra PTO switch on hand - had one die 3 or 4 years ago. The symptoms were bizarre and hard to diagnose, so I just went with my gut and replaced the switch and all is well.

Tim

Tim,

Good idea on the spare PTO switch. I'll pick up one next time I'm at the dealer. Seems like cheap insurance.

Bill