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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased a very clean 455 with less than 200 actual hours. The unit on occasion will not start. The fuel shut off solenoid is the issue. It engages the fuel shutoff then releases it and shuts off fuel with the key in the start position. Replaced the solenoid, this did not correct issue. I am now thinking it could be safety switch under seat, on the brake pedal or even key switch and the board it is attached to that controls glow plugs and fuel shutoff solenoid. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Roger, the odd thing is that the no start situation generally occurs after the unit has been run for a while. I do no remember it not starting when it is started with a cold engine.
This is my first 455 and am trying to learn about this unit. I understand this is considered to be a very well made John Deere. Is this correct? I had a 332 for over 15 years and it was a great tractor. I can only hope this 455 can do as well
 

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William, the 455 is indeed a good tractor. You need to get a copy of TM1517, the technical manual for the 4x5 series. It has a page on fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis. I can't type it all in here, but basically walks you through a series of test points, including the key switch, control / fuse module, brake switch, PTO switch, and seat switch. My guess would be that one of these has a cruddy connection - possibly even just removing and reinstalling the connector will cure it.

Tim
 

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William,

The fuel solenoid has two coils. The white lead is the pull-in coil which is a high current device. The pull-in only has voltage on it for 1 1/2 seconds. At the the time voltage is supplied on the red lead to the hold-in coil.

When you turn the key to the run position the two coils are energized. The hold-in coil keeps the solenoid operated as long as the key is on.

Sounds like the hold-in coil is not being energized. It receives power through the PTO and ignition switch. Like Roger said it could be the ignition switch.

George of Buford
 

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Howdy All,

Went to the local JD dealer to pick up a primary and secondary belt for my 210. While I was there I was inquiring about suitcase weights as I will be mounting my 37A snow blower in the next month. They brought out a generic suitcase weight that was 50 lbs. They don't have the JD logo on it. They were painted green and were 50 bucks each. The salesman said if I buy some weights he would throw in a rear weight bracket they had laying around for a garden tractor. The bracket is rectangular shaped and can fit 5 weights. It is missing the locking rod and mounting brackets. I don't know what its off of but if I made two brackets to mount to the lower rear bolts on the rear hitch I think it can work. Ya know the two bolt holes that a model 43C rear bracket bolts to. I will post pics of the bracket tomorrow as its too dark now. I figured when I mount the 37A on I will need the extra weight. I already have a 60 lb wheel weight on each rear wheel.

I would sure love to see how others add suitcase weights to the rear of their 200 series rigs.

thanks in advance!

Hec
 

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Hector,

350 lbs including operator makes a 200 series a tank. This is a weight box but it's a similar attachment method. It uses the lower hole that the 43c goes in, and an upper hole about 5" above, where the spring pins on a 31 tiller or sleeve hitch goes. By spreading the mounts it is more robust for weight bearing. Its attached with 4 1/2"x1 1/2" bolts.

 

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Jim..do you have a pic of just the bracket and how it mounts?

I was going to try an rig something to sit on the tab on the back, where you hitch a cart, to hold some chunks of steel that are about 120#. Wondering how much weight it would hold....or do you have to attach any weight bracket to the frame itself?

How much weight do you really need to run a 37a?

I just had one 70# wheel weight last year, and it was a brutal 13' of snow winter, and it worked just fine...well lost traction a bit once in a while going uphill.
 

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This? I think you were asking about suitcase weights.........

This remains on tractor. It is loaded with slab weight only when I need it. I don't carry weights around just to carry weights around. Slab weight is much heavier than them little suitcase deals, but more difficult to manage as they ain't got a hand-hold. But they are cheaper.

Looking to make a simple sheet steel box to mount one this. One in which to throw pop bottles and beer cans into which I pick up along the highway.
 

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Anne , can you post pics of your chunks of steel ? You pretty much have to design the mounting arrangement around them . If they will fit in a box/frame between the sides of the tractor frame (like Scott's) that is optimal . But if , together , they are wider than the frame you can make it work too . You could probably make one center support (as apposed to Scott's (and my boxe's) 2 side supports .

(Sorry , I'm having trouble uploading pics of mine .)
 

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If you don't have a hill to climb, then you need one set of wheel weights with chains. If you have a slight hill/incline you'll need two sets. One set is about 100 pounds. If you don't use wheel mounted weight, use something similar to that.
 

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I have chains and have used 2 different kinds of wheel weights in the 15 years I've thrown snow. Learned in the first couple years that it's often more about driving technique(speed and feed...lol) than amount of weight.

This year I am going to add ballast weight differently, the chunks of steel I have are about 3" thick x 8" diameter and 120# total....all free 'scrap' from a machine shop I do design/drafting work for.

I think 120# behind the axle should be plenty, and it will fit between the tires...need to keep it close as I don't have maneuvering room in some spots to have something sticking way the heck out the back.

I can fab something to hold them, have a couple ideas in mind and I'll post it here when it's done.

Just not sure if I should put all the weight right on the hitch tab or if I need to support it off the frame. I'm guessing that the hitch tab should hold it OK and it should be simple to attach with one bolt thru the hitch hole.
 

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This is the box I built for my weight . There are two pretty stout bolts on each side of the frame that hold it . I think they are there to mount a tiller . And it's resting on the hitch .


These are the hunks of steel my Dad got from a friend in the mid '70s .


The discs are 10" in diameter . They tuck very nicely between the fender pan & the hitch plate in the box . The other odd shaped thing is also 10" thick . With the box I'd guess they're around 200 lbs . I've never actually weighed them .
 

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I am running the two factory John Deere plastic weights but would like to get two sets of the older metal JD rear wheel weights. So far I have been doing fine with this setup plus chains. A few years back I was lucky enough to purchase a rear weight bracket from a forum member in Va. It mounts like the tiller would and the bracket side look a lot like the ones used on the tiller mount. I really like how the bracket looks. Now all I need is some suite case weights for it.

 

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Wow! Lots of great ideas for adding weight to the rear of the 200 series. Jim, if you can share your cad files please email them to me. I would love to see them. I have AutoCAD. Here is a picture of the bracket I got for free from my JD dealer. I don't want my weights obstructing my rear tail lights for safety reasons. My rear tail lights are wired through a wig-wag relay and alternatively flash. I am thinking of using 1/4" thick 2" flat strap to build a right and left side bracket that will bolt up to the corresponding two bolts on either side of the weight bracket in the lower picture. I hope to have something worked out this weekend. Keep ya posted!


Hec




 

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I think I read someplace a long time ago that too much weight on the back might not be good for the axle and that is why the weights should be on the wheels. is this a concern? Also, does John Deere still sell the bracket for the suitcase weights?
 
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