Snow Blades for 140H3
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The answer is yes, but needs an explanation.
The guy that sold me my 54 blade also threw in an old 43 moldboard (I think that is the correct term - the blade only part). This 54 has a rubber squeegee bottom and the 43 has a metal bar. He suggested I use the 54 for snow removal and the smaller 43 for landscaping, rather than swapping the rubber in and out.
It takes only a few minutes to switch the moldboards.
So, you may have seen a 43 on a 140.
The guy that sold me my 54 blade also threw in an old 43 moldboard (I think that is the correct term - the blade only part). This 54 has a rubber squeegee bottom and the 43 has a metal bar. He suggested I use the 54 for snow removal and the smaller 43 for landscaping, rather than swapping the rubber in and out.
It takes only a few minutes to switch the moldboards.
So, you may have seen a 43 on a 140.
Don,
Per the JD parts website catalog 2979, Grid C6, Section 10, Page 44, there are two blades for a 140. A model E0611 (54") for model years 1970 to 1974 and a model E0610 (Model 43 that is 42") for model years 1968-1969 (Yellow) and 1970-1971 (White). This blade is similar to the U043 except that it has a hydraulic cylinder for lifting.
A model E0610 will probably be difficult to find. I was searching for a 48" blade for my 322, but they were between $500-$600 plus shipping.
I had put a U043H blade on my 317 and was impressed with it's capability. This blade was designed for 200 series tractors without hydraulic lift. All I did was to install a support frame and hydraulic cylinder in the front of the tractor.
I live near Atlanta, GA. and do not have much snow to push. What I use it for is to clear woods and push concrete otherwise known as Georgia red clay.
I really like the narrower blade since I push dirt, rocks, and trees. My 317 has fluid in the tires, 250 # of suitcase weights on the rear, and bar lug tires. I run out of traction not power so a wider blade would be a disadvantage for me.
Another advantage of a custom design is that I built in blade height adjustments. A factory blade has only one setting. I have 12 different depth settings. This is necessary if you want to cut a trench or are pushing light soil.
I just completed adding a U043H to my 322 yesterday. I have about $350 in the setup.
Here are a few pictures.
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I need to do a little grinding on the front angle irons.
George of Buford
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Per the JD parts website catalog 2979, Grid C6, Section 10, Page 44, there are two blades for a 140. A model E0611 (54") for model years 1970 to 1974 and a model E0610 (Model 43 that is 42") for model years 1968-1969 (Yellow) and 1970-1971 (White). This blade is similar to the U043 except that it has a hydraulic cylinder for lifting.
A model E0610 will probably be difficult to find. I was searching for a 48" blade for my 322, but they were between $500-$600 plus shipping.
I had put a U043H blade on my 317 and was impressed with it's capability. This blade was designed for 200 series tractors without hydraulic lift. All I did was to install a support frame and hydraulic cylinder in the front of the tractor.
I live near Atlanta, GA. and do not have much snow to push. What I use it for is to clear woods and push concrete otherwise known as Georgia red clay.
I really like the narrower blade since I push dirt, rocks, and trees. My 317 has fluid in the tires, 250 # of suitcase weights on the rear, and bar lug tires. I run out of traction not power so a wider blade would be a disadvantage for me.
Another advantage of a custom design is that I built in blade height adjustments. A factory blade has only one setting. I have 12 different depth settings. This is necessary if you want to cut a trench or are pushing light soil.
I just completed adding a U043H to my 322 yesterday. I have about $350 in the setup.
Here are a few pictures.
I need to do a little grinding on the front angle irons.
George of Buford
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209 Posts
George -
Nice project! I agree, that narrower blade would certainly have advantages for pushing heavier items...
-Chris
Nice project! I agree, that narrower blade would certainly have advantages for pushing heavier items...
-Chris
Joined
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393 Posts
George - Thanks for posting the info on the OE610 blade. I just purchased one on ebay, and wasn't sure what I was getting. I knew the seller and had actually seen the blade on a previous visit, so I wasn't worried about bidding on it. I couldn't find info on it at the JD parts site.
The OE610 I just picked up yesterday is 54", with dual hydraulics. I wouldn't have minded a narrower blade like you have, as I'll probably be using it more in the dirt than snow. But I'm just happy to have it!
The OE610 I just picked up yesterday is 54", with dual hydraulics. I wouldn't have minded a narrower blade like you have, as I'll probably be using it more in the dirt than snow. But I'm just happy to have it!
Bryan,
You asked for it, you got it.
This is a picture of the tractor end of the cylinder to the blade. The only attachment to the tractor are the two pins at the bottom and the two spring loaded pins on the top of each side plate.
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This is a rear view of the first picture. You need to have a very strong support or it will bend. I welded a 4" channel to the blade end plates. Then I made the upright out of 3X6 angle iron and reinforced it with a piece of 3X3 angle on the back. Every angle is welded on the inside and outside
You will need a cylinder with a minimum of 4 inches of stroke. The rockshaft cylinder from a 318, ETC. is only 3.65 inches and is just not enough. Believe me I tried since I had an extra one. A 4 inch is what is used on the normal JD blade.
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This is a view of the front cylinder attachment bracket. The angle iron just below the model tag was added to reinforce the top of the blade. I hooked and bent my other blade on a tree while I was backing up. This is welded to the plate with the springs and each end is bolted through the blade.
![]()
I will be adding these pictures to my gallery, All-Hydrostatic Deeres (Next to last page), in the near future. First I need to sandblast and paint it.
George of Buford
![]()
You asked for it, you got it.
This is a picture of the tractor end of the cylinder to the blade. The only attachment to the tractor are the two pins at the bottom and the two spring loaded pins on the top of each side plate.
This is a rear view of the first picture. You need to have a very strong support or it will bend. I welded a 4" channel to the blade end plates. Then I made the upright out of 3X6 angle iron and reinforced it with a piece of 3X3 angle on the back. Every angle is welded on the inside and outside
You will need a cylinder with a minimum of 4 inches of stroke. The rockshaft cylinder from a 318, ETC. is only 3.65 inches and is just not enough. Believe me I tried since I had an extra one. A 4 inch is what is used on the normal JD blade.
This is a view of the front cylinder attachment bracket. The angle iron just below the model tag was added to reinforce the top of the blade. I hooked and bent my other blade on a tree while I was backing up. This is welded to the plate with the springs and each end is bolted through the blade.
I will be adding these pictures to my gallery, All-Hydrostatic Deeres (Next to last page), in the near future. First I need to sandblast and paint it.
George of Buford
I have a 2005 JD GT235 that had a fire mishap in the engine area. Could someone tell me the correct positions of the two hoses going to the inlet of the carb and the short, small hose next to the inlet hose. Is the small used as a vent for the carb? Where should the small hose position be?
Thanks, Bob
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Thanks, Bob
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