Currently I am painting my 49 snow thrower chute, has anyone lined it with a poly and formed it with a heat gun, then maybe gluing or riveting it in? They make a poly for snowplows. Or maybe painting it is enough?
I have not used a poly material but I did take the chute off my blower last year and sanded it smooth and gave it a number of coats of paint, sanding in between coats and it seemed to work much better than the previous winter when the chute was pitted and rusty.
I also used Gabby's advice and cut a round washer out of a very thin plastic cutting board and used that as a washer between the chute and the snow thrower shell to keep the chute from binding and freezing to the shell. It worked much better last winter than the silicone lube I used in previous years.
Years ago I started using flaps on the auger paddles to close the gap between the paddles and the wear plate on the rear of the snow thrower housing. That helps throw snow at what seems like a harder force out of the chute.
If your chute does plug, some folks recommend clearing the clog and then trying to drive faster to "force-feed" the auger and keep the material moving. I tried it a couple times and it seemed to help.
Also, if you keep your tractor and snow thrower in a heated garage, it is recommended you move it outside and let the snow thrower come to ambient temperature before you start blowing snow. That will keep the snow from melting and getting slushy in the snow thrower housing and chute as it moves through.
I purchased my snow thrower used from someone who used it on a semi paved driveway but over the years, the chute had lots of rock chips that rusted. It was not heavily pitted but after using it a few years I decided to make the chute smoother to improve flow. I sanded the chute as smooth as I could and then using spray cans and multiple light coats, I primed it, sanded the primer, primed again as necessary, sanded lightly and then gave it a couple coats of JD yellow, sanding in between coats. I have a paved driveway so hopefully it will last a long time without getting pitted.
A coat or two of clear is fine if you want to add it. In fact a yearly coat or two of clear might help the paint from eroding from abrasive material flowing through with snow. The smoother the chute the better.
If your snow thrower auger paddle has a large gap between it and the wear plate, cut two pieces of rubber belting or mudflap and bolt them onto the paddles to close the gap. You will see a noticeable improvement, especially in slushy snow.
I decided to try a modification to the chute on the snow caster that I am using on my Bolens 1050 thanks to a suggestion by propane1 and a misunderstanding of the rubber modification of the paddle on the auger that I suggested to my brother as he was having problems with the snow caster on his...
Had a 318 and Model 49 Snow Thrower. 7-8 yrs. Tried the cooking spray, graphite, etc.
Overall, what seemed to work best (at least for me): auger paddles and inside of chute kept clean, smooth, primed, painted, and waxed.
For the last couple of winters this is what I've been using inside my snow-thrower chutes.
Easily cut into manageable lengths to conform to chute blowing passageway.
The product adheres to the metal very aggressively and stays put.
I overlap the tape edges a bit and of course, press it down firmly when applying
Lots of snow clearing last winter without any deterioration of the tape.
I don't have to deal with any gravel surfaces though, so can't comment on
its useful longevity under those circumstances. The tape surface is very smooth and the snow
does not adhere to it even under soggy snow conditions. I have previously tried all of the
methods mentioned and found them to be temporary at best. "This is easy and quick and works!"
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