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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started the JD today to cut grass and it died backing it out of the shop. Full tank of gas and the tractor will run if I dump fuel in the carb or spray starting fluid in it. There is no fuel in the filter and no whine when turning the key. I am assuming fuel pump, are they difficult to change? Any pitfalls to watch out for? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Something Other than the two 15A fuses in the control module? where is the fuse located? I was looking at a wiring schematic and a component location chart for the 425 and didn't see one. There is one on the schematic for the 445 so maybe it's in the same location?
 

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TJ -

I was going by my 93 445 . It has a separate fuse in a fuse holder by itself . One of the wires from this fuse holder does attach into the circuit board . The wiring change for later 96 and up may have incorporated this fuse into the circuit board fuses . Mine is a 10 amp for the fuel pump . Dave
 

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Just looked in the service Manual , Your F4 power fuse is on the circuit board and runs the fuel pump also . The 445 IS different ; My bad . Did you check it to see if you have power across it when you turn the key on ? But if the motor runs with fueel dumped in carb ,it's not your power fuse , so you may have a bad pump , but I would do basic T-Shooting . Voltage getting to pump ? Etc .., The fender pan needs to come off to acess fuel pump . Not too bad a job at all . Take seat off , Remove Two bolts on fender top , remove two bolts and nuts each side at foot-rest / lower fender pan , Preety simple to get to it . Clips on fuel line are simple squeeze to release . Pump is under seat pan .

Oh yeah - dont forget to un-plug your tail light bulbs and seat switch before trying to remove fender pan .
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the tips, Got the pan off and didn't rip out any other wires! Looks pretty easy to get to, There is power at the harness so I guess it's just a bad pump. Now I didn't pull the pump out yet, Can the pump be replaced by itself or do I have to put in a new sending unit and all that stuff at the same time? I would imagine If I just get a new pump and gasket it looks like I should be able to just replace those and be good to go if i'm looking at the schematic right.
 

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TJ -

I'm really not sure , having never actually replaced a pump before in my dealings with them . Seems I remember someone talking about the ground at the pump being subject to corrosion or something . May want to just give that a look-see also before buying the pump . I could be wrong on this one .., but it never hurts to look anyways .

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
70 bucks for the pump and about 5 min to pull it out of the tank and put the new one on. One hose clamp, one screw that clamps the pump to the sender and two wires with blade type fittings and we are running again!!! It took longer to put the rear pan and seat back on than it did to replace the pump!
 

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Take the pins the blade pivots on out. Then put the springs on. Then put the pins back in. I have used a large Channel Lock pliers to align the pin holes on one side and the start the pin a bit. Finally go over go and do the other side and get that pin started. Then you should be able to finish pounding the pins in. There were a couple of different ways 43 blades were made so they may not all have two pivot pins. Roger
 
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