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Steering wheel off center?

1473 Views 19 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ZWILDZR1
I was using the loader on my 455 at my dads house and the tractor just died. I was pushing it a bit hard trying to dig the layer of grass out in his back yard to make a garden.While doing this I was pushing into the grass and the tractor died under a little bit of a load. Now every time I turn the key to the on position , I don't even have to turn it to start it blows the Upper 15 amp Fuse on the panel with the green and red light on it. My alternator died on me a few weeks back and I thought that might of been the problem again after I rebuilt it but I disconnected it and the tractor then started but as soon as I went to move it died and blew the fuse again.....at this point I am 6 fuses in and out of fuses. Need to get more tomorrow, any ideas I could really use some help. Been looking for a wiring diagram with no luck unless I buy one online.
Thanks Tom
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I think that may be the fuel pump fuse , but not 100% sure . You should be able to hear the F/P humm with key on for a few seconds and good fuse in it . Could also be for the fuel shut off solenoid . Give us the model no , year of your 455 as there were 3 different wiring diagrams with serial number breaks .

Not at home right now it is a 1992 John Deere 455 2wheel drive it is NOT the all wheel steer model so just the front steer. Had a pic of serial i think it's
Let me know if this is not it. Like I said I was using it with the loader under pressure and the whole thing just quit no bangs pops just poof off. I found the 15 amp fuses on the green red light panel and the top one was blown so I put a new one in as soon as I turned the key to on it blew. Tried another one left key in on blew as soon as it touched the terminals. Only work I have done to it was to replace the outer bearing in the altenator a few weeks ago so I unplugged the wiring to it then the fuse did not blow in on switch so I let the glow plugs warm up and it started...this is where it gets fuzzy and I ran out of fuses I can't remember if it died when I tried to lift the loader or when I tried to move... I think when I tried to lift the loader off the ground so I could move., going to buy more 15 amp fuses today any help you can all be be greatly appreciated.
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As far as I can tell from a quick look at TM1517, one fuse on that board is for the lights and the other is for the primary power circuit. A problem with the lights seems unlikely, so I think you may be blowing the power fuse. Unfortunately, that circuit goes a number of places. At this point, you're going to need TM1517 and a voltmeter - sounds like you have a dead short someplace.

Hey thanks for the reply Tim , but I am not sure what the TM1517 is? Where do I get it?
Just thought it was odd everything was going ok and then dead. It's pouring out here now so can't work on it tonight but when I get home from work tomorrow I will grab my volt meter and see if I can find something , was just hopeing maybe someone had had this happen.
TM1517 is the Tech Manual for the tractor and will tell you how and the correct order to test things in. You JD dealer will be happy to order and sell you one. Roger
Might just try unplugging the fuel shut off solenoid , and then put good fuse in it and turn on the key and see if it still blows the fuse . If not , then plug it back up and see if that is the cause . A bad fuel solenoid winding should very much be suspect , as should a bad fuel pump .
You can start by un-plugging things to find the culprit if it is a component gone bad . If it's wiring short on frame , that may take some extra time to find . One thing it is not related to .., is the hydraulics of the loader .

Thanks for the advice it is all welcome. I am a cable tech and have never been good at fixing machines. I can build you a pc from the ground up and fix any problems you have from cable to Internet phone or even alarms ,but when it comes to machines it's all new to me, but I like a challenge at least after I have completed it.
R I will be working on it first thing tomorrow morning and will let you all know what it is if I can find it. Can I get a digital copy of that TM1517 online does anyone know as I kinda need it for tomorrow morning and not in a week if I have to order one?
Again thanks for all your help that's why I tell everyone I run into with little tractors about this site because you are so friendly and helpful.
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With the pushing using F/L could something have moved and pinched a wire. May want to check between the fuse socket and ground with an ohm meter to see if you have a short.
Tom, TM1517 will be a help, but you can get started without it. Do you have a voltmeter? If so, check the fuse socket of the fuse that keeps blowing. You're going to find 12V on one side of the socket. Next measure resistance to ground (the tractor frame) on the other side of the socket - I think you're going to find it's very nearly 0. From there, we'll have you try removing components from the circuit, and find the culprit. The fuel shutoff solenoid is a good guess for sure, so starting there wouldn't be a bad idea.

I took out the top fuse and I have 12V on the top terminal, on the bottom terminal it is showing a short , I am kinda at a loss, I disconnected the altenator, the feud shutoff solenoid as well as all the other clips I can find I am still getting a short, if I put it all together I can start it and it runs for about 5 seconds then blows the fuse , I do not do anything it just blows
Not sure what happened it runs again now was about to give up for the day and was going to try one more thing I read about if it dies when you release the brake and don't ya know it the thing ran and stayed running! Thanks for for all the help I may need it again if it comes back...darn lawn gnomes are in my tractor I think.
Tom, sounds like you may have a wire that has rubbed through and is getting grounded against something when it bounces into the right position. Not easy to find.

Based on past experience, it'll be back when it's least convenient for you.

I know this maybe trivial to some but what is the best way to correct the steering wheel off center. I have a steering wheel puller set from when I used to work on cars front ends and do alignments. In the days before airbags we would use the auto's tie rod ends during alignments to make sure the wheel was centered or in cases of a customer complaint about a wheel grossly out we might pull the wheel and center it. I made a puller that would do the job but the wheel did not seem to be moving and I got worried. I have thought of adjusting the linkage but decided I would ask here first what would be the best method to get the steering wheel centered. Thanks for any help you can provide. It's for a 200 series tractor late seventies.
Pull the steering wheel.
You might spray some soaking oil around the stem for a day or so then try again.
I will give that a try. I also need to adjust the steering backlash as it seems to wonder abit. Thank you.
Your wondering steering may be worn parts. Every moving part in the mechanics of the steering may be worn adding up to alot of slop.
From the axle pivot bushing to the wheel bearings and through the steering column, it all can add up to having to constantly move the steering wheel to compensate.
Jack up the front end and start looking for play in each part.
I did jack up the front as I was noticing how much you can turn the wheel before the tires actually start to turn. The front wheels do start to move before what seems to be a lot of free play is all out while jacked up. I will check all the parts. I haven't driven it in four years and didn't remember it feeling this way before. I noticed the wondering the other day plowing with it as I drove a good ways on our country road to help a neighbor dig his drive way out. Don't really notice anything at lower speeds. I was thinking the front tires are out of round as they have gotten more like tires with belt separations. I am the original owner and it still has the original front Firestones and rear Good Years. But I will check everything.
Dave: Assuming the 200 series steering box is the same as the 100 series, there is a jam nut on the side of the steering box that can be tightened to remove the slop. Do not over tighten, as this moves the steering plate closer to the worm drive. Check your manual if you have one, it shows you how to do it. Don B.
Don, I do have the manual. I have been reading how to make the adjustments and will try doing it one day this week. All the parts are tight and I am going to repack the wheel bearings also.Alex
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